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Build Thread 1983 CJ7 Build Project

Build Thread 1983 CJ7 Build Project

timemachine

Jeeper
Posts
7
Thanks
4
Location
Rhode island
Vehicle(s)
none
I am rebuilding a 1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo . I am starting with a real gem! Rust and damage free, both body and frame. Completely stock AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l inline with 116k miles, but the emissions have been disconnected. Not sure what process they used, but so far do not see a nutter bypass.

The Plan
I would like to get this on the road by Mid May. I am retired so have plenty of free time to dedicate to it.
If will be a fair weather ride, garaged, with no top. No off road but some beach rides in spring and fall.

My plan is to start by pulling the body (in process) and doing in 4 phases
1. Tackle any frame cleanup, a 2.5-3" lift, upgrade any steering, stabilizers, brakes and lines, tires (33") etc... Touch up paint them move outside and cover.
2. Move the body panels inside and fix a couple small issues and undercoating (raptor) front wheel wells, and underside and inside of tub.
3. reassemble as I have read better to paint with body on.
4. reinstall gauges, clean up wiring, new vinyl on seats, fabricate roll bar cover, etc...
5. Test ride and enjoy!!

Next winter pull front only and rebuild engine and Transmission if need be.

IMG_3588.webp IMG_3590.webp

IMG_3588.webp
 
  • Thanks for the Post!
Reactions: CJ
Day 2 Got almost all wiring disconnected between tub and outside world. Pulled hardtop, window, and half way through dash. Hoping to pull tub tomorrow. Plan on leaving roll bar for now to use to lift with my forks on tractor. Behind the dash there was a ton of un-used wiring. Orders a full color wiring guide.
IMG_3656.webp IMG_3658.webp
 
Nice looking Jeep. If the top has never been off, the interior stayed dry probably. If the top has been off some, you might eventually take the roll bar off. AMC left the metal under and between roll bar unprotected and not painted. Rust on these Jeep can start inside and work its way out. Great looking specimen.
 
Great starting point for your build. Very, very fortunate to have no rust.
 
Day 3 and the tub off and power washed frame and components. Looked around and decided to do fuel and brake lines along with motor mounts. Figured much easier to do now while all exposed.
IMG_3679.webp IMG_3674.webp
 
Nice progress.

Might want to check the ring and pinion ratio and see if it's still stock. A lot of CJs of that vintage came with really high 2.73:1 ratio. If going with 33" tires, you might consider a lower ratio, like 4.11 or so. With what looks like a 5-speed, it'll still be fine on the road.

Not sure if you've considered a new lower steering shaft yet. There are a couple different options out there, but a collapsible shaft with u-joints on both ends is a good upgrade and can eliminate some looseness in the system.
 
I ordered new differential gaskets today and plan on opening them up and inspecting, and fresh oil. Not sure how to tell which one I have but it’s the AMC20 real and Dana 30 upfront.

Please send recommendations on steering shaft so I can research.
 
For R&P ratio determination:
-When you have the diff covers off, count the ring gear teeth and the pinion gear teeth. The ratio is those numbers divided by each other (41/15, for example, is 2.73:1).
-Or, while the rear end is jacked up off the ground, spin the yoke and count the rotations the yoke/driveshaft makes for one axle/tire rotation. Then, multiply that number x2.

For lower steering shaft, look at Borgeson

Or

Flaming River (Link)-> FR1519-PTLT - 1972-86 JEEP CJ5 / CJ6 / CJ7 / CJ8 Slip Shaft Kit - Fits 1" DD Column w/Power Box -<
 

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