232 Timing

[Allen]

I've been using this forum to troubleshoot all my issues with this jeep, great info and resources here, thank you all for your wealth of information!

I pulled a 75 DJ5D out of a barn and got it running (just enough to trailer). I have gone through several minor issues, emptied gas tank, replaced carb, repaired brakes and lights. I was able to get it going for a few test drives, but it was banging like a bell (timing chain was very loose). Finally, it jumped a tooth and quit on me. I replaced the timing chain only to discover that on the crankshaft sprocket there are two marks that look like timing marks, I picked one and tried to fire it up, the engine backfired loudly and quit again. I took the front of the engine apart again, switched the crankshaft sprocket so it lined up with the other mark, and then tried the engine again, this time I got nothing. I took the valve cover off to check for any issues and discovered 5 bent pushrods (four severely and one barely). I am replacing those rods, and before I try to crank it again, I just want to know if there is a way to determine if this engine is now in time without trying to crank it and bend rods again, and without taking the front of the engine off to check the timing marks on the sprockets? In other words, is there an easier way to check correct timing on an engine that won't crank without taking the timing cover off?

 

[Sasquach]

If you bent push rods you probably bent valve too. Sounds ugly.

 

[priceg]

Timing is a funny thing. It can have different meanings. First their is initial timing. Initial timing is the relationship between the crankshaft and the camshaft. Base timing is the amount of advance the ignition has over the initial timing. Total timing is the total amount of advance your engine sees at a specific rpm. All three must be set properly for good drive-ability and performance. You initial timing being in the next galaxy is what bent the push rods. As Sasquach noted, their could be more extensive damage. The AMC 232 i6 is a non interference engine under normal conditions, however normal has past by. I have seen rockers split, rocker studs ejected from the head and valve heads snapped off and mated to the piston. Just by habit, I always set the initial timing on every engine that I have timing components removed from. That way you can easily identify the factory timing marks and make reassembly a snap. If you do not have a factory service manual, I can email you the correct procedure. Good luck

 

[Allen]

Sounds like I'll be taking it more apart to check the entire valve train.

I don't have a FSM, but I should look into that, could you email the pertinent section(s) that would help me get going again?

 

[motomom]

bad news most times bent push rods mean bent vavles

 

[Allen]

I've got the new pushrods in, everything put back together, but it still won't start. When the #1 piston is at tdc, the balancer mark is lined up with the timing marks on the timing cover, and the button is pointed at 1, I should be in time right? Is there a chance I am 180 degrees out? Which rocker arms should be loose when the first piston is at tdc and in time?

 

[SoK66]

The ones for #1 cyl should both be loose. Go back and triple check your basic cam timing before you go any further. If that checks out, do the same with your distributor and also make sure you have the wires in the right sequence and connected to the right plugs. Be sure you actually have some spark before you try & start it.