304 Rebuild, Dana 20 reseal
shanespurlock
Jeeper
First off, as a newbie to this forum and to jeeps in general, I want to thank those who helped with my previous two threads. I appreciate the feedback.
Since my "engine stall when pressing the clutch" problem on the day I had planned to remove the engine for rebuild, I didn't get very far into diagnosing. I have since pulled the engine and disassembled, ready to take to the machine shop. Its a '73 AMC 304 but it has the dogleg heads with the stud mounted adjustable rockers, I'm told this is a good thing.
There was large metal flakes in the oil pan I found to be coming from the cam bearings. The main bearings were all toast, and the #7 rod bearing was work down to the base metal. really glad I decided to rebuild it.
As part of the build I ordered a 280 duration cam kit from CompCams with matching springs, lifters, etc. The heads will be cut down just enough to give me a 9.5:1 compression ratio. Other than that everything will be stock. Distributor was just tuned up, ill be rebuilding the Motorcraft 2100 carb, etc.
I noticed there is a bit of scuffing on the front cover from the oil pump gears, and wondered, since the engine kit comes with an oil pump rebuild kit, how to determine if the front cover is good or needs to be replaced.
It looks like the PO removed the PCV valve, so Im wondering, is there a reason to even port it back to the carb vs blocking it off? The oil fill tube has the cap with the breather element, so I can't imagine that plugging off the pcv would create any undo crankcase pressure, or would it? Its a 73, and I live in Montana, so emissions are not an issue...I just want it to run as clean as possible, and in my experience, routing crankcase gases back into the intake stream is not good for performance or clean burning combustion.
Now for the Dana 20 . The thing was leaking like hell out of the output seal, so that and a seal kit are on their way. Also, the two thimble rod caps were missing, and had been replaced by 20g shotgun shells siliconed in place. Im not joking, Ill have to send a picture. So I ordered new thimble rod caps, but I am not sure what is the proper way to mount them in place, or what their purpose is. Any help on this would be great.
Other than that, it has some turn signal, brake light issues, the original turn signal was junk and half the wiring behind the dash is rotted out. When you turn the headlight switch to the some light position it lights up the floor lamps, the right turn signal, and the low amp light. Also the ignition switch has to be pressed on with the key in the off position to kill the motor. I ordered a new signal stat 900 turn signal mechanism, new headlight switch and new ignition switch, and am replacing every wire and connector.
Any thoughts anyone can give me on any of this stuff would be appreciated, as Im sure there are things I am not taking into consideration.
Shane
Since my "engine stall when pressing the clutch" problem on the day I had planned to remove the engine for rebuild, I didn't get very far into diagnosing. I have since pulled the engine and disassembled, ready to take to the machine shop. Its a '73 AMC 304 but it has the dogleg heads with the stud mounted adjustable rockers, I'm told this is a good thing.
There was large metal flakes in the oil pan I found to be coming from the cam bearings. The main bearings were all toast, and the #7 rod bearing was work down to the base metal. really glad I decided to rebuild it.
As part of the build I ordered a 280 duration cam kit from CompCams with matching springs, lifters, etc. The heads will be cut down just enough to give me a 9.5:1 compression ratio. Other than that everything will be stock. Distributor was just tuned up, ill be rebuilding the Motorcraft 2100 carb, etc.
I noticed there is a bit of scuffing on the front cover from the oil pump gears, and wondered, since the engine kit comes with an oil pump rebuild kit, how to determine if the front cover is good or needs to be replaced.
It looks like the PO removed the PCV valve, so Im wondering, is there a reason to even port it back to the carb vs blocking it off? The oil fill tube has the cap with the breather element, so I can't imagine that plugging off the pcv would create any undo crankcase pressure, or would it? Its a 73, and I live in Montana, so emissions are not an issue...I just want it to run as clean as possible, and in my experience, routing crankcase gases back into the intake stream is not good for performance or clean burning combustion.
Now for the Dana 20 . The thing was leaking like hell out of the output seal, so that and a seal kit are on their way. Also, the two thimble rod caps were missing, and had been replaced by 20g shotgun shells siliconed in place. Im not joking, Ill have to send a picture. So I ordered new thimble rod caps, but I am not sure what is the proper way to mount them in place, or what their purpose is. Any help on this would be great.
Other than that, it has some turn signal, brake light issues, the original turn signal was junk and half the wiring behind the dash is rotted out. When you turn the headlight switch to the some light position it lights up the floor lamps, the right turn signal, and the low amp light. Also the ignition switch has to be pressed on with the key in the off position to kill the motor. I ordered a new signal stat 900 turn signal mechanism, new headlight switch and new ignition switch, and am replacing every wire and connector.
Any thoughts anyone can give me on any of this stuff would be appreciated, as Im sure there are things I am not taking into consideration.
Shane