35's
rr41mag
Full Time Jeeper
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- 04 dodge truck, 1966 chevy truck, 2012 rav4
And finally a 1981 jeep cj7 258 hardtop
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35's
- Thread starter rr41mag
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AussieCJ7
Active Jeeper
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- 1983 CJ7 Australian delivered RHD wide track, orginally GM iron duke 4cyl, T5, Dana 300. For now see mods :)
Biggest problem to me for 35's is not the amount of lift but the radius of the rear flares is smaller than a 35 meaning a lot of rubbing I would be looking at a trim approach to fit 35's rather than a body lift
CJ007
Old Time Jeeper
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- 83' CJ7-35's, granny T18, clocked, locked, 456s, D30 20 trussed- stitched-heim traction-1 piece shafts, CV dshaft, quick discos, xtended shock mounts, SOA, revolvers rear, braided lines, herculined, hand throttle, AMC saddle bags, rebuilt 258, D300.
Depnds on what you do with your rig, but it will at some point.
I have 35's, spring over (measure at about 5.5"), 1" body, rear is comp cut, front tube fenders and still rub often on the upper moderate to difficult trails. Not enough to do any real damage, but it does rub.
For me, it's mostly the forward part of the wheel well on the rear, and rear part on the front. I need to move my axles outward. hmmmm..
I have 35's, spring over (measure at about 5.5"), 1" body, rear is comp cut, front tube fenders and still rub often on the upper moderate to difficult trails. Not enough to do any real damage, but it does rub.
For me, it's mostly the forward part of the wheel well on the rear, and rear part on the front. I need to move my axles outward. hmmmm..
Old Dog
Always Off-Roading Jeeper
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- 83 CJ7 350 tbi, TH350, D300 twin sticked & clocked, narrowed Chief D44 Eaton Elocker & Moser shafts, Explorer 8.8 Detroit locker, 410's, RE 4.5" spring lift 1" body lift, 35" Claws, cage tied to frame, Corbeau baja seats, HD tie rod and draglink, u-bolts flipped, custom skid plate and sliders, Warn 9.5ti winch with Amsteel synthetic line
BusaDave9
Always Off-Roading Jeeper
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- 1979 Jeep CJ5 with 304 V8, T18 Transmission, Dana 20 Transfer case with TeraLow 3:1 gears, 4.88 axle gears, Detroit Locker up front and Ox Locker in back with 1 piece axle shafts, 36" SuperSwamper SX Tires, Shackle reversal, MileMarker Hydraulic winch, MSD 6A ignition.
I agree with the Aussie. Some people hate to do any fender trimming because its irreversible but tires bigger than 32 inches won't fit in the rear fenders. Once you go to 35 inch tires you need a lot more lift to fit the tires. Just a little more cutting and you can fit bigger tires and still keep a somewhat low profile.
Here's how I cut my fenders to fit 36 inch tires. You can see I can still use all the travel and fit my tires up into my fenders.
Check out this link about fitting 35 inch tires: http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f49/fitn-35s-10244/
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hopefulcj
Jeeper
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- 1980 CJ7-258 I6, MC 2100 carb, team rush upgrade, T4, D300 tcase, D30 w/aussie locker in the front, AMC20 open, I think PO put 4.88s in the diffs, 35,000-135,000 miles, you pick. 4"susp lift, 2" shackle, 35" <-BAD WORD-> cepek AT's on black steel wheels, 1 1/4" spydertrak wheel spacers, most everything else i believe is stock, finding things out as I go
I've got 35s with a 4" susp and 1.5 shackles lift, no rubbing for me, then again I havnt been able to do that much wheeling. Theirs a pic in ky profile.
zuba
Jeeper
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- 1980 CJ5 350 AUTO 400 6" lift 35" BFG
2009 JK Rubicon 35 MTR
I got 6" lift and 35's with 1"body lift I have a lot of room ,but need wheel spacers for turning problems .
hopefulcj
Jeeper
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- north florida
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- 1980 CJ7-258 I6, MC 2100 carb, team rush upgrade, T4, D300 tcase, D30 w/aussie locker in the front, AMC20 open, I think PO put 4.88s in the diffs, 35,000-135,000 miles, you pick. 4"susp lift, 2" shackle, 35" <-BAD WORD-> cepek AT's on black steel wheels, 1 1/4" spydertrak wheel spacers, most everything else i believe is stock, finding things out as I go
I second zuba, I have 35x12.50s 15 x10 rims, and i installed 1 1/4" spydertrax spacers due to the rubbing as well. It's been a couple months now and no problems yet.
CJim7
Crazy Sr. Respected Jeeper
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- '84 CJ7 - 430hp 401 on propane - T18a/D300 twinsticked, Superior axles, Lockers, full boatsides, Warn 8274, OBA, 36" TSL's.
Im running 36's on 4½ inches of suspension lift with trimmed out rear fenders and flat fendered front. The only rubbing I get is at the rear of the front fender if I have a wheel turned and suspension compressed. A little more inner fender massaging will fix that.
I flex it pretty hard too.
I flex it pretty hard too.
Manhattan
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- 1981 CJ-8: SBC, SM465, D300, 4.5" R.E. Extreme, 35" BFG MTs, 20/30 with 4.56 Gears, Detroits F&R, Moser/Warn axles, XworX Full Cage
As others have said - 4"-5" is plenty. The issue is the rear tires hitting the body. I cut as much from the front and a few inches off the back of the wheel opening. Then used Scrambler flares to cover the opening.
Here's my old CJ prior to lifting it (by a day) and before I cut the body...
And with 4" springs and no body lift - stuffed hard. I had just cut the body.
And with the Scrambler flares...
Here's my old CJ prior to lifting it (by a day) and before I cut the body...
And with 4" springs and no body lift - stuffed hard. I had just cut the body.
And with the Scrambler flares...
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