360 decisions

360 decisions
Germy

Germy

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Cincinnati, Ohio
Vehicle(s)
1985 jeep cj7 360 20 rear and 30 front w/warn lockers 5 speed tranny,

1971 dodge dart built 318
Have heads, valve job and blasting. Timing cover, and dual plane performer intake. 600 cfm Eddie and now I have to figure out the low end. The cam suggested to me by summit was this
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-CL10-202-4/
I was planning on all bearings , .030 over and question decking. How much can come off, what about pistons? Can i go to a flat piston or do They have to have reliefs. Isn't the name of the game compression?
 
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IMHO build it as close to stock as possible. I think it will be more reliable and what you are looking for in A JEEP CJ...

Are you taking it to the 1/4 mile strip? Yes? then get flat top pistons and high compression.

But MY OPINION is to use a cam that closely resembles stock, with good off-idle response and torque/HP that is good in the lower RPM band. Keep compression close to stock. No need to deck. Just surface heads for flatness, and stop there.

You used a Performer intake telling me you arent looking for higher RPM power bands. If you were, you would have used a torker or RPM airgap.

I'd stick with a cam close to stock..

Just for the record I used a Melling cam, MTA-1 with 204/214 duration @.050 and .448 / .472 lift. Very mild cam with power range 1500-4000 rpm

BTW: I just rebuilt my 360. Fired it for the FIRST time yesterday. Broke in engine yesterday and ran around town today. Fun as hell !!. It isnt a race car rocket, but off idle response kicks ***! Ppwer band seems strong to about 4K RPM. (but I'm running a GM Turbo 400 auto tranny)
 
jeepboy45 said:
BTW: I just rebuilt my 360. Fired it for the FIRST time yesterday. Broke in engine yesterday and ran around town today. Fun as hell !!. It isnt a race car rocket, but off idle response kicks ***! Ppwer band seems strong to about 4K RPM. (but I'm running a GM Turbo 400 auto tranny)
Click to expand...

Yayeeee!!!! Had to feel great? Thanks for the I info!
 
On my 360 I rebuilt the heads with the 2.02/1.60 valves, and everything else stock, unless you added a lot of weight in big tires and big axles the 360 will have tons of torque to make your jeep very fun. I would also stick close to stock. Remember: more compression equals higher octane gas. with mine stock with dished pistons I am still able to over power the rear leaf springs and snap u joints and yokes, a traction bar and 1 ton u joints are part of my rebuild you will definitely enjoy it :chug::chug:
 
Would you even bother with .03 over bore?
 
Roger that. May stick to stock cam too
 
I agree with the above, at least if your thinking of off road use the way I use mine. My jeep very rarely sees anything above 2 grand when wheel'n and is just above an idle most of the time.
 
Cool, I'll keep it stock, can I reuse cam and lifters after the tear down
 
If you are doing a rebuild then replace the cam and lifters
 
What is stock? The one recommended was 268 at .456 advertised, is that way more overlap than stock?
 
Thats not overlap; thats duration (268) and lift (456). That sounds like a nice middle of the road cam. Should pull to 5k or maybe a little more and leave plenty of low end with lots of midrange.

And I suspect thats a little more than stock.
 
Cool, thanks for clarification. I'm reading up on cams a little, just confuse me a bit
 
Not trying to melt your brain here, but............ if you are interested in keeping the power band close to idle, look for a cam with short duration in order to keep the power band closer to idle for low end torque. Then you wont require extra heavy springs. If you want a little more kick, look for a bit more lift without duration increase and then when you choose a cam look at the installed spring height spec and the compressed spring weight spec and get them to the machinist to verify that you existing springs are not to old. Also look for a high lobe center, something around 108 to 110 degrees. That will respond to a heavy vehicle with better throttle response and higher manifold vacuum.
 
Germy said:
What is stock? The one recommended was 268 at .456 advertised, is that way more overlap than stock?
Click to expand...
Yea what jeepboy45 said.
I'm not sure what stock is.
I'm also not very up on AMC engines but 268 duration would be more than what I would want for a 350 chevy. I run a comp cam that is 254/262 split duration and it's a little big for playing in the rocks, kinda wish I would have went with their 250/AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l split cam.
I would look for something that says it's good for IDLE through 4000 or so rpms.
At least if your going to be playing where we do, for higher rpm mud running something like sumit suggested might be ok.
Cams with higher durations are better at higher rpm's but don't have much torque at lower rpms.
 
Cool, I'm reading up and comparing
 
Germy said:
COMP Cams CL10-200-4 - COMP Cams High Energy Cam and Lifter Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Click to expand...


seems good...
for what its worth, the machine shop can often get a better price on a package deal of parts: pistons, rings, cam / crank bearings, oil pump, cam/lifters, and gaskets.

Tell them what you are looking for, and they can probably order it with the rest of the parts for a decent price. Besides, they are going to need the pistons to press them on the rods, and cam bearings to install in the block.
 
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