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73 CJ5 4.0 head on a 258, HEI, Holley Projection w/ 4.56, Detroit lockers Narrowed D44 front and full float D44 rear T14 w/ D20 4 wheel discs, 38.5 Boggers
Got it running and 95% complete today! Fairly uneventful just time consuming, alot of tedious fitting and mounting of stuff. Runs great with no pinging on regular gas, no flat spots or hesitation, fells like a honest 50% horse power gain.
First start up after bleeding the fuel rail was-uh oh what spark plug wires did I cross up as the engine almost shook out of it's mounts! within 10-15 seconds it started settling down as the computer does it thing with the first 15 min. needed to fine tune itself.
Oh and first started and ran with 2-1/2" pipe out of the header into a new free flow cat with a turn out/down...too loud for me, put the muffler behind the cat and turned down...perfect.
Got it running and 95% complete today! Fairly uneventful just time consuming, alot of tedious fitting and mounting of stuff. Runs great with no pinging on regular gas, no flat spots or hesitation, fells like a honest 50% horse power gain.
First start up after bleeding the fuel rail was-uh oh what spark plug wires did I cross up as the engine almost shook out of it's mounts! within 10-15 seconds it started settling down as the computer does it thing with the first 15 min. needed to fine tune itself.
83 CJ7 350 tbi, TH350, D300 twin sticked & clocked, narrowed Chief D44 Eaton Elocker & Moser shafts, Explorer 8.8 Detroit locker, 410's, RE 4.5" spring lift 1" body lift, 35" Claws, cage tied to frame, Corbeau baja seats, HD tie rod and draglink, u-bolts flipped, custom skid plate and sliders, Warn 9.5ti winch with Amsteel synthetic line
Well, Not exact figures but the Mopar system was $2300, Harmonic balancer $200, 4.0 head from clearwater head reworked w/ welded jackets and new valves $400, Ebay 4.0 Grand Cherokee valve cover $80, Ebay 4.0 Cherokee header $25, local muffler shop front pipe etc. $30. Misc. belts/bolts $25.
You do the math and please don't tell my wife!
Well, Not exact figures but the Mopar system was $2300, Harmonic balancer $200, 4.0 head from clearwater head reworked w/ welded jackets and new valves $400, Ebay 4.0 Grand Cherokee valve cover $80, Ebay 4.0 Cherokee header $25, local muffler shop front pipe etc. $30. Misc. belts/bolts $25.
You do the math and please don't tell my wife!
Intake (Upull) 50
Wiring Harness/Fuel Inj/TB/ECM(partout) 250
Head 91-95 Casting(upull) 50
3 Angle Valve Job/ Recondition 250
Complete Serp Setup/Valve cover(upull) 60
o2 sensor(partshouse) 50
Exhaust header (New-Ebay) 80
new exhaust(ESTimated will go to Shop) 300
hesco Fuel pump/filter(buddy had one) 60
air intake(ebay) 32
fuel hose 12
CPS(Free) Already had one in the AX15 0
Main Pulley spacer(Buddy Custom Made it) 30 Technically Free, Traded my Cherokee Steering Column
1194 total
Hey Sasquash,
I join this forum because I am looking to do a 4.0 head and fuel injection and you and thisguyuknow have what I am considering and both of your threads on the subject is very informative and "inspiring". You probably haven't had enough time to know but maybe you have been Enjoying the Ride to know. What is your gas milage with your new powerful set up? Also how long did it take you to install everything?
Hey Sasquash,
I join this forum because I am looking to do a 4.0 head and fuel injection and you and thisguyuknow have what I am considering and both of your threads on the subject is very informative and "inspiring". You probably haven't had enough time to know but maybe you have been Enjoying the Ride to know. What is your gas milage with your new powerful set up? Also how long did it take you to install everything?
I can't speak for sasquach but I haven't has a road test yet. In theory the HWY mileage should be around 18ish. You got to remember that Its not just your engine that determines fuel economy. Gearing is also a determining factor. FOr instance, I have an 1988 Grand wagoneer, AMC 360 (Carbed), 33" Tires,727 three speed and 4 inch lift. Originally I had axles with 2.72 Gears and non selectable front axle. With that set up I got 11 MPG. I swapped in some Cherokee axles with selectable front hubs and 3.34 gears and now i get 14-16 Hwy mileage. So although the engine is running higher rpms at speed the gears put the engine in its sweet spot in the gears.
Hey Sasquash,
I join this forum because I am looking to do a 4.0 head and fuel injection and you and thisguyuknow have what I am considering and both of your threads on the subject is very informative and "inspiring". You probably haven't had enough time to know but maybe you have been Enjoying the Ride to know. What is your gas milage with your new powerful set up? Also how long did it take you to install everything?
I do not have enough time on it for milage figures but have noticed the fuel guage seams to move more slowly, not very technical but I got a feeling it's much improved. Starts right up and idles hot or cold without touching the pedal and no more smoke and fumes.
I did not keep track of my time real well but 2-3 days or a week of evenings would get it done if you have some knowhow. The single most time consuming thing for me was the fuel pump and lines but I was in no hurry and wanted it done the best I could for safety and reliability.
The Mopar MPI system is worth every penny in my book as it is very complete with good instructions and all new components, the only thing I bought to add to the install was some extra hose clamps so I could double them at every fuel line connection.
THIS KIT IS EMISSIONS EXEMPT IN THE STATE OF
CALIFORNIA UNDER C.A.R.B. EXECUTIVE ORDER D265-7
THE TUNE UP PROCEDURES AND ENGINE SERVICE ARE
THE SAME AS A 1994/1995 4.0 LITER JEEP WRANGLER
PLEASE READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS THOROUGHLY
PRIOR TO INSTALLATION OF THIS KIT
CHECK YOUR PARTS AGAINST THE BILL OF MATERIAL INCLUDED IN THE KIT
(Attached to instructions)
This product is intended for use on STOCK, UNMODIFIED, WELL MAINTAINED
1981-1990 AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l LITER (AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l cid.) ENGINES. Installation on engines with MODIFIED
CAMSHAFTS, INCREASED COMPRESSION RATIO or engines that are in POOR MECHANICAL
CONDITION, such as LOW CRANKING COMPRESSION or EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION
is not recommended.
NOTE: If spark knock (detonation) occurs, it is recommended that 92 octane or
better premium fuel be used. The use of Mopar combustion chamber cleaner will
reduce carbon deposits and help reduce spark knock.
DISASSEMBLY:
1. Disconnect the ground cable from the battery and drain the coolant from the
radiator.
2. Loosen the power steering pump and the alternator and remove the drive
belts. Remove the two bolts that hold the power steering pump to the water
pump. Remove the two nuts from the rear power steering pump bracket, then
slide the pump forward to disengage it from the rear bracket. Remove the rear
bracket from the intake manifold.
3. Remove the air cleaner assembly as a unit and discard it.
4. Remove all of the production emissions controls from the engine, including
the three (3) solenoids located on top of the valve cover, the vacuum switch
assembly and any lines and delay valves connected to the carburetor.
NOTE: Refer to the Production Emissions Schematic or to a proper shop manual
for your particular year vehicle.
5. Remove the pulse air valves, which inject fresh air upstream and downstream
of the catalytic converter, and all associated fittings.
6. Disconnect the heater hose from the fitting on the intake manifold. Remove
the throttle linkage and throttle cable. Remove the carburetor/intake manifold
assembly. This will require removing the tube that connects the exhaust
manifold to the EGR valve mounted on the intake manifold.
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the exhaust manifold.
7. Remove the stock mechanical fuel pump and fuel lines from the engine. Make
sure to mark the lines PRESSURE and RETURN where you disconnect them at the
fender well.
CAUTION: GASOLINE IS HAZARDOUS!! Wear eye protection and never work on a HOT
engine or around FIRE OR FLAME!
8. Disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses and remove the radiator, fan
shroud, engine fan, thermostat housing and crankshaft pulley.
9. Remove the plug wires and distributor cap. Remove the #1 spark plug and
rotate the engine in its normal direction until the #1 piston is on the
compression stroke. The timing mark on the dampener should line up with the
"O" mark on the timing tab. Looking through the stock fuel pump mounting boss,
rotate the engine backwards until the camshaft moves and note the amount of
slack in the timing chain as degrees on the timing tab. If the slack is more
than 10 degrees, replace the timing chain. Rotate the engine in the direction
of rotation to the "O" of the timing tab. Note the clocked position of the
distributor rotor. Loosen the hold down clamp and remove the distributor.
Remove the ignition coil and bracket and discard them.
10. Using a suitable puller, remove the crankshaft dampener. You will need a
new dampener, P5249688 for serpentine belt, or P5249687 for V-belt driven
pulleys.
11. Remove the brake booster fitting from the old manifold and install it in
the new manifold.
12. Remove the windshield washer bottle and the charcoal fuel cannister. Be
sure to mark the vacuum lines that go from the fuel cannister to the intake
manifold and the fuel tank.
13. Remove the front three (3) driver's side oil pan bolts.
14. Remove the oxygen sensor from the exhaust manifold.
15. If the vehicle has a catalytic converter, it will be necessary to seal the
air injection tubes at the CAT and header pipe. Seal by bending the end of the
tube and crimping.
ASSEMBLY:
1. Install the new oxygen sensor in the exhaust manifold.
2. Cut off one end of the tube that went from the exhaust manifold to the EGR
valve and remove the tube nut from it. Install the saucer shaped freeze plug
into the hole in the exhaust manifold where you removed the EGR tube. Secure
the freeze plug by tightening the now free tube where nut down against the
freeze plug.
3. Install the new distributor (The distributor is shipped with an indexing
lock pin and will not rotate. DO NOT REMOVE THE PIN UNTIL THE DISTRIBUTOR IS
INSTALLED).
NOTE: If you think the engine may have moved from TDC, make sure the engine is
at TDC on the crankshaft balancer. Install the hold-down clamp and remove the
white locking pin.
4. Install teh conbination fuel pump block-off plate/ignition coil bracket
where you removed the original fuel pump. Install the coil with the plug
wire terminal toward teh distributor.
5. Install the new crankshaft dampener. (Torque the bolt to 120 ft. lb.)
6. Install the pickup sensor bracket. The bracket bolts to the oil pan where
you removed the three (3) bolts in step #13 of the disassembly instructions.
Install the pickup sensor on the bracket with the bolt provided. NOTE: There
should be between .020" and .060" clearance between the sensor and the
crankshaft dampener. This clearance is the thickness of the paper button on
the end of the sensor. You push the sensor up against the dampener, then
tighten the mounting screw. This will set the initial clearance.
7. Install the crankshaft pulley, the fan, and the radiator. Install the new
195 degree thermostat. This is critical. Temperature level of 195 degrees is
critical for fuel system operation. Install the coolant sensor supplied into
the new thermostat housing in the 3/8" pipe hole, then reinstall this new
assembly on the engine. Reinstall the radiator hoses and heater hoses; reroute
the new heater hose supplied, as it no longer goes through the intake manifold.
8. Install the new intake manifold. You will only be able to reinstall one of
the power steering pump bracket bolts and You may have to trim the top lip off
of the power steering pump bracket to make it fit the new manifold. DO NOT
over tighten the bolts! Bolt torque is 23 ft. lb.
9. Install the throttle cable and bracket.
10. On automatic Transmission vehicles: the kickdown linkage must be installed
Once these parts are assembled, you should set the adjustment. Rotate the
throttle body to wide open throttle. This will cause the cable to ratchet to
the proper zero clearance. At this time, verify that the throttle linkage
works smoothly and returns to IDLE (closed throttle).
11. Reinstall power steering pump bracket and belts. Tension the belts. The
hole in the bracket may need to be enlarged slightly.
12. Connect the new fuel lines to the fuel rails and attach to the mounting
bracket on the new intake manifold. Find the fuel inlet line where it was
connected to the stock mechanical fuel pump (NOTE: Some CJ models have the fuel
supply line routed down the right passenger side of the vehicle.) Trace this
line back across the engine bay to the driver's side frame rail. Cut this line
and the fuel return line a few inches behind the front leaf spring eye. Bend
them up slightly to align with the new fuel lines that come from the MPI fuel
rail. Connect the lines with the 5/16" fuel hose and clamps provided. NOTE:
The new fuel lines look almost identical. You will note that one has an orange
dust cap over the quick connect. This is the return line, or fuel out, and has
the smaller 0-rings inside. It connects to the new fuel rail on the forward
end of the line coming out of the fuel pressure regulator. The pressure line
has a yellow dust cap over the quick connect which has the larger 0-rings
inside and connects to the second connection on the fuel rail. IT IS
IMPERATIVE THAT THESE LINES ARE CONNECTED PROPERLY. Improper connection can
cause damage to the fuel pump. THE RETURN FUEL LINE GOES FROM THE FUEL
REGULATOR (on the fuel rail) BACK TO THE FUEL TANK.
NOTE: On models with the fuel supply line on the right side, carefully route
the line around to the fuel rail similar to the O.E. setup.
CAUTION: If you buy any fuel line to hook up the fuel pump, make sure it is
rated to handle EFI pressures!
INSTALL FUEL PUMP AS FOLLOWS:
13A. Jack up the rear of the vehicle and place on jack stands. From under the
vehicle looking to the rear you will notice a cross member in the frame above
and behind the axle housing. On the driver's side of this cross member you
will notice a rubber block with three (3) flexible fuel lines emerging from it.
The lines turn 90 degrees toward the frame and are connected to hard lines with
clamps. On the flange of the cross member are three (3) bolts that attach the
fuel tank skid pan to the cross member.
13B. Remove the center bolt.
13C. Disconnect the center fuel line from its hard line at the clamp.
Reconnect this flexible line to the inlet of the new fuel pump assembly using
the same clamp.
13D. Mount the fuel pump assembly to the cross member flange using the nut
and lock washer.
13E. Connect the 5/16" flexible line coming off the new fuel pump assembly to
the fuel filter inlet line, with the clamp provided, and the fuel filter outlet
to the center hard line of the original fuel line.
14. Install the new charcoal cannister in the stock location and hook up
the new vacuum lines. Some engines will not use the plastic valve cover
fittings. The many different valve covers have different PCV and fresh
air fittings. Make sure to use the stock AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l PCV valve or orifice at one
end of the valve cover and provide fresh air at the other end of the cover.
It is important that the engine is ventilated properly to meet emissions and
reduce oil leaks caused by crankcase pressure.
15. Install the new Powertrain Control Module (PCM) right above the charcoal
cannister on the bulkhead with the supplied hardware.
16. Plug in the wiring harness to the PCM using the 60-pin connector. DO NOT
OVER TIGHTEN THE CONNECTOR! Drape the harness over the top of the master
cylinder, then around the back side of the engine.
CAUTION: THE HARNESS MUST NOT BE CLOSE TO THE EXHAUST, USE TIE WRAPS TO SECURE
IT OVER THE MASTER CYLINDER.
17. Find the two relays on the harness a short distance from the PCM. Mount
them to the bulkhead with the screws provided. NOTE: Mount the relays with the
wires pointed down. This is to prevent water build-up within the relays. The
PCM may be mounted at any angle, however, do NOT mount it with the wire
connector facing up. This would allow water to pool in the connector! The PCM
is waterproof. The 60-pin connector is splash proof, but will not work when
immersed in water.
18. Mount the MAP sensor to the bulkhead right behind the engine with the
screws provided. Plug the green three (3) prong plug from the harness into the
MAP sensor.
19. Route the harness down along the valve cover toward the front of the
engine. Connect the fuel injectors. Each one is marked where it goes.
20. In the center of the harness between injector plugs #3 and #4 is a group of
four plugs. Connect three (3) of these to the throttle body in their
respective receptacles, and the fourth one to the Manifold Air Temperature
(MAT) sensor.
21. In the harness at the front of the engine is another group of three (3)
plugs. One of them is very long; this is the Oxygen Sensor plug. The three
(3) prong plug in this group is the pickup sensor plug. The other (two prong)
plug is the coolant sensor plug. These will only plug in to the correct
sensors. Secure the cables with tie wraps provided. Make sure the pick up
sensor connector is tied away from the exhaust manifold.
22. Bend the harness toward the passenger side of the Jeep and down along the
spark plug side of the head. The next plug is the ignition coil connection.
Then comes the harness ground with the distributor plug. Connect the harness
ground under the bolt that holds the dipstick tube to the engine block. (it has
other ground wires on it. Do not remove any.) Connect the distributor.
23. Route the rest of the harness along the top of the Transmission . The next
plug will be the vehicle speed sensor. Route the remaining harness along the
frame rail to the rear of the Jeep' to connect the fuel pump power (+) to the
green wire with the black stripe. The ground wire is black with an orange
stripe. Secure the harness all along its length in strategic locations with
the tie wraps provided. Make sure that there is clearance between any moving
parts or areas of high temperature, such as the vehicle exhaust. You may want
to use dielectric grease on the connections to prevent corrosion (Mopar part
number J8126688).
24. To supply a switched 12 volt power supply to the two bulkhead mounted
relays, locate the old positive (+) side coil wire (usually a yellow color).
Connect this wire to the relay wire. Now connect the red relay wire to the
starter relay, battery plus(+). The starter relay is usually located under the
battery box or mounted on the fender panel. Mount the system fuse.
NOTE: Make sure that the switched 12 volt wire is not routed thru a ballast
resistor or resistance wire. Also make sure that 12 volts are present on this
wire during cranking!
25. Install the 7.5 amp diode (supplied) in the field wire of the alternator.
This is the smaller of the two wires, usually brown in color, that plugs into
the alternator. Cut the wire and install the diode with the pink crimp-on
connector facing toward the alternator. It is imperative that this diode be in
the field circuit to protect the new electronics.
26. You may wish to install a new windshield washer bottle and bracket. These
can be obtained through your local Jeep/Eagle dealer. Washer bottle part
number is 55154744; bracket is 55026288.
27. Install the new air filter and bracket. It attaches to the driver's side
body support rod. Connect the two 1/2" hoses, from the aluminum connectors, to
the valve cover vent and the fuel cannister vent line.
28. OPTIONAL: If you wish to install a tachometer or an engine light, the wires
for these are already in the harness, located close to the relays. They will
be hanging out of the harness. The tachometer wire is light gray with a yellow
stripe. This is the tachometer trigger wire. The O.E. 81-90 Jeep tachometer
WILL NOT work with this system. The tach wire switches a 5V signal two times
per engine revolution. Set your aftermarket tach on the 4-cylinder scale to
achieve a true RPM reading. Some tachs will not work with this 5V signal, or
they may have needle flutter at low RPM. If this is the case, you will have to
splice into the coil negative side to operate your tach. If you hook up to the
coil, use the 6-cylinder setting on your tach. The coil negative side wire is
gray. (Hook up the tach last, after the engine is running, because some tachs
have a low impedance and will short the coil to ground. This will not harm
anything, but will prevent the engine from running.)
29. The "check engine light" wire runs directly to the PCM. The PCM grounds
this wire to turn on a light to display fault codes. The light bulb holders
are available at any local electronics supply.
30. On automatic Transmission Jeeps, the brown wire that is coiled near the PCM
connector must be connected to the neutral safety switch. This wire can be
connected to the bottom of the starter relay, or to the center terminal on the
neutral safety switch. On Chrysler automatics, this is the center terminal.
If you choose to connect it to the starter relay, make sure that the terminal
is for the neutral start switch. It should be grounded in park and neutral.
This wire is for improved idle quality when in "Drive"
31. Reconnect the battery and turn on the ignition key. You should hear the
electric fuel pump run for a few seconds and then shut off. Start the engine
and IMMEDIATELY CHECK FOR FUEL LEAKS. Depending on the ambient temperature,
the idle RPM may be high initially, and decrease as the engine warms up. This
is normal!! Do not try to adjust the RPM by changing the opening of the
throttle blade. Test Drive! Recheck all connectors and fuel lines!
32. Be sure to apply the CARB E.O. decal supplied in the kit in a visible
location under the hood.
TROUBLE SHOOTING NOTES:
Hints we have found useful
1. This system is the same as used on the 1994 4.OL Wrangler. If you need
service parts, or are checking fault codes, refer to the 1994 Jeep Wrangler
Service Manual. The wiring is also the same as a 1994 Wrangler in function and
color. You may call 1-800-626-1523 to order a service manual.
2. The crankshaft sensor is very sensitive. Make sure it is solidly mounted.
Make sure that your engine does not have too much crankshaft end play. The
paper button on the sensor will wear off with use of the engine.
3. The distributor should not be turned to change timing. It will not. The
distributor is set to have the rotor tip .020' past #1 spark plug terminal with
the engine at TDC.
4. The fuel return line to the tank must be unrestricted. Check this carefully
before you hook up the return hose.
5. You may see fault codes for charging system too high or too low. This is
normal and should be ignored. 6. The PCM does take some time (15 - 30 minutes) after first use to "learn" the
best settings for your engine. You will notice better idle quality and
acceleration after this learning period. For this reason, the battery should
be left connected if this vehicle is to be driven daily. If you use a kill
switch, do not interrupt the B+ circuit or the PCM will need to "re-learn"
every time you start the engine.
that is a crazy looking fuel regulator BTW.
