Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Hello Guest, we are proud to now have our Wiki online that is completely compiled and written by our members. Feel free to browse our Jeep-CJ Wiki or click on any orange keyword when looking at posts in the forum.
So I bought this 1975 CJ5 a couple months ago and when I bought it, it more or less ran.. When I got it home I fixed the fuel mixture, adjusted the timing, and rebuilt the carburetor. Drove it around for a while, took it off road more than on the road :xj:... but then it just stopped working.. It simply wouldn't start.. So we began with the ignition systems because it didn't seem to be getting spark.. we replaced the Ignition Control Module, Starter, Alternator, Distributor and Distributor Cap, the Spark Plugs and the Ignition coil.. It seems to be getting spark now, but still wont start!
The engine will crank but will never fire.. Someone please help, i have been fighting with this thing for over a month now.. I just want to go down some trails!
1985 cj8 streched to 118in wheel base, shackle reversal soa, chevy vortec 350, turbo 350, dana 60 front and corp 14 rear, custom bumpers front and rear
2006 Ford F350 CCLB with the dreaded 6.0 that has given me no problems
We have sprayed starter fluid and carb cleaner directly into the carburetor with no luck.. it tries to fire a few times but still wont start.. When we replaced the distributor im 99% positive that the rotor was in the correct position however I will go check that later today.. Also, when the gas is pushed fuel is spraying into the carburetor like it should be.
Ok, we tried our best but still nothing... We removed the number one spark plug and set the engine to TDC, took out the distributor, lined it up according the the manual and attempted to start it up.. it popped a lot but just barely wouldnt start.. we flipped the distributor 180 degrees to make sure we were on the right TDC and still nothing.. the rotor at TDC seemed not to match up with where the manual said that it should be at so we changed all the wires to match what the rotor wanted.. still nothing..
Do you have a spark?? do you have fuel?? if the answer to both of these is yes, go back and redo the distributor again At TDC the rotor should line up very close to the #1 cap position. that's the one with the little #1 cast into the cap. If you have to, pull the valve cover, you can see the rockers and make sure you are on the compression with both valves closed.
When you slide the distributor in the important thing is the position of the rotor not the location of the distributor itself. Just as soon as you start changing wires you are saying the rotor is in the wrong position.
Ok, we tried our best but still nothing... We removed the number one spark plug and set the engine to TDC, took out the distributor, lined it up according the the manual and attempted to start it up.. it popped a lot but just barely wouldnt start.. we flipped the distributor 180 degrees to make sure we were on the right TDC and still nothing.. the rotor at TDC seemed not to match up with where the manual said that it should be at so we changed all the wires to match what the rotor wanted.. still nothing..
Do you have a spark?? do you have fuel?? if the answer to both of these is yes, go back and redo the distributor again At TDC the rotor should line up very close to the #1 cap position. that's the one with the little #1 cast into the cap. If you have to, pull the valve cover, you can see the rockers and make sure you are on the compression with both valves closed.
When you slide the distributor in the important thing is the position of the rotor not the location of the distributor itself. Just as soon as you start changing wires you are saying the rotor is in the wrong position.
It sure sounds like a timing issue. If it was me, I'd pull the distrib, wires, plugs and valve cover, then watch the #1 intake valve to be 1000% sure of TDC, then start fresh. while you have the plugs out it might be prudent to check compression to be sure nothing has given up the ghost internally.
I need to know if it has a PLASTIC vacuum advance on the distributor.
Metal vacuum advance with ONE WIRE to the distributor base, DELCO BREAKER POINTS.
Metal vacuum advance with THREE WIRES to the distributor base,
Jeep/Motorcraft distributor.
I need to know which distributor you have before I can start to diagnose your issues.
---------------------
So we began with the ignition systems because it didn't seem to be getting spark.. we replaced the Ignition Control Module, Starter, Alternator, Distributor and Distributor Cap, the Spark Plugs and the Ignition coil.. It seems to be getting spark now, but still wont start!
1. Get your self a test light,
The kind that looks like an ice pick with a bulb in the handle and a wire coming out of the handle with an alligator clip on the end.
These run anywhere from $6 to $25 in parts stores.
2. Hook the test light to the battery NEGATIVE,
Probe the battery positive to make sure the light bulb works.
3. REMOVE the positive wire from the coil, we are testing the wire.
With the key switch in the 'Run' position, see if you get a light when you probe the coil 'Red' wire when it's NOT attached to the coil.
You should get a 'Light' at your tester.
If you DO NOT, you more than likely have an issue with the key switch, ignition fuse, factory tach, ect.
Something inside the cab.
4. Probe the same wire/terminal with someone cranking the engine.
Make sure you have everything you want to keep out of the fan/belts before you have them crank the engine.
You should get a 'Light' when cranking.
If you don't, it's time to find out why.
*IF*...
You have power to the ignition coil like you are supposed to in both 'Run' and 'Start' positions of the key switch,
It's time to move on to the 'Negative' side of the coil.
Hook the power wire back up to the coil,
---------------
5. Swap the wire on your tester from the negative to the POSITIVE post on the battery,
Again, probe the other terminal to make sure you have a working light and good connection...
6. With the NEGATIVE or 'Green' wire REMOVED from the ignition coil,
Probe the terminal with the ignition switch in the 'Run' position.
You should get a 'Ground' and see the light light up.
7. Do the same test with the engine cranking, you should have a FLASHING light.
If you DO NOT have the FLASHING LIGHT, then you have problmes with the module signaling the coil to fire.
NO LIGHT usually means you don't have a good connection between module and 'GROUND',
Your Prestolite module will have a 4 wire connector, then a 5th wire out of the module that is bolted to the fender.
When that 5th wire isn't making connection, you usually don't get ANY LIGHT at all.
IF the light doesn't flash when cranking,
Then you have a bad module,
Or you have a distributor signal that isn't getting to the module.
--------------------
Without knowing if you have an I-6 or V-8 engine,
Without knowing if you have a factory stock Prestolite or some other ignition,
I can't guarantee your results...
So putting that kind of information in your signature line always helps.
So it has been a while since my last post.. since then we have replaced the wire set, spark plugs are good, and firing order is correct, power is getting to the coil, spark to the distributor, and spark to the plugs. We have fuel, and compression also. Trying to start it though still does nothing.. With one person cranking it and another moving the distributor slightly the engine will pop a lot and come very close to starting but ultimately still wont....
So we pulled off the timing cover to check the cam timing.. after a bit of research we have found the cam timing to be correct we think.. there is a bit of slack in the chain but it doesnt seem to be more than a half an inch.. Can someone confirm/verify that the marks highlighted in this image are the correct timing marks? if not can someone please point them out to me?
I dont know anything about if it has a Prestolite system or not, however the vacuum advance on the NEW distributor is plastic with one hose while the OLD distributor is metal with one hose as well..
If it popped then something is trying to fire. Not only get TDC lined up correctly, but check the rest of your wire for placement as well. My V8 gave me fits until I realized that #2 and 8 were swapped.
I'm having the same issues with my 85. It has the i6, with mostly Motorcraft inside it. It was running smooth, then the car just stopped, no warning. I cranked the engine a bit, got it running again, got it home, no issues for a week or so. Got to work, damned thing wouldn't start..AGAIN. Took 2 hours till it would, finally got it home, thought I had the problem solved (bad wire on the coil). Took the car to the gym and it refused to start, so I swapped the coil over, cranked the ever loving out of it and got it home...and here it sits. Got it started once, then it shut off and nothing now.
I did the test you show up above with the test light, it shows OK. Checked spark and fuel, that's good. Checked the timing (pulled the distributor cap off, removed #1 plug, set to TDC, then rotated the engine a bit by hand to check play in the dist...none whatsoever.) I have not removed the front off the engine to check, no garage and it's too cold out atm.
So I'm basically with the OP, everything looks good but nothing is a-go.
Not sure how you checked for fuel or the spark. Did you pull a plug and watch it light up? and did you verify that there is gas by working the accelerator pump and watching it spray into the intake manifold? You must have missed something.
I adjusted the timing a few weeks ago, car was running smooth. Randomly died on me in the heavy rains we had a few weeks ago (engine, electrical all died), but I was able to get it going again. Got it home, no problems. Got to work the next day without a hitch and it refused to start when I was leaving. After a couple of hours it started back up. I attributed it old spark plugs, which I changed out and it seemed to run great.
Car kicked the bucket again the next day. I thought maybe my timing was screwed up, so I reset back to TDC via a way I found on the internet (remove #1 plug, rotate engine till pulley mark meets on the proper line, then rotate oil pump notch fully clockwise, facing the engine it's in the 11oclock position, check to see if rotor matches #1 plug on cap for TDC).
Changed to the mechanical carter and it was running really nice, drove it around (good mileage). I reset to TDC to ensure the best performance, then adjusted it a tad. Car ran great. Next morning I decided to go to the gym. I had the same problem when I tried to leave, so I checked the wiring, it seemed that a wire on the coil was bad so I ripped it out and fixed it, car drove but it chugged all the way home. When I got home the car died again.
I checked the timing, appeared fine. I'm still getting spark (checked a pulled plug), replaced the distributor with a working one, ICM works, coil is good. Checked out all the electrical with a test light (clamp on negative, turn car to run, please test light on yellow wire [removed from coil], check for light, then crank, check for light, repeat on + side of battery on green coil wire [removed from coil). Found my starter solenoid was dead so I replaced that to boot. I am getting good fuel
Car just doesn't want to start. Turns over like a champ, got fuel, got spark...just no ignition.
I adjusted the distributor back to what it was when I got the car (certainly not TDC). It started for a second then died again.
Nightpath, let them work out Qbert909's problem before you jump in with yours. Hijacking a post just confuses people and doesn't help the original poster. Thank you.
out of it and got it home...and here it sits. Got it started once, then it shut off and nothing now. 
