76 CJ7 no fire when in run position

[AWI001]

Hey All,

My starting solenoid recently crapped out ( stuck in the engaged position ). After swapping out with new, i am no longer getting fire when in the run position. A while back i bypassed the ballast resistor so i am getting a full 12V @ the + coil but only when i am in start position. Basically everything to do with the ignition system is new with the exception of the distributor. If i hot wire from + battery to + coil she will run like a charm. Im pretty sure i have a short somewhere but the where part is what i am struggling with. Any ideas?

 

[Torxhead]

Sounds like the secondary ignition system is not kicking in. Make sure you have not cooked a fusible link to the alternator.

 

[AWI001]

Would that be the red wire out of the alternator harness?

 

[Torxhead]

There is supposed to be a fusible link between the starter relay and the alternator. If you can pull on it and it stretches, its shot. Better check continuity through it also.

 

[AWI001]

So i got back at it today. The fusible link didn't seem to have a short but i swapped with new just for safe measure. That being said i am still having the same issue (no fire in run). Any chance something else got cooked when the solenoid was stuck in the engaged position. Could the alternator its self be the issue?

Thanks again!

 

[Torxhead]

Since it does indeed run when it is hot wired, you could start tracing back from the coil to see where the volts quit coming in. The secondary ignition system does start with the alternator also. Looking at the '74 wiring diagram in a Haynes Jeep CJ manual, there does seem to be two alternators listed. A Motorola with an external voltage regulator and a Delco with an internal regulator. This guy here makes a great wiring diagram for your CJ:Jeep CJ 1974 1975 | PROSPERO'S GARAGE. There might be and probably is by now other wiring modifications done to your CJ so look out for that. The oem ignition system in your CJ is known to be less than desireable also.

 

[AWI001]

Thanks Troxhead,

Your comment brought to my attention that i left out some relevant details. I am currently working with a Motorcraft distributor and NAPA TP40 Module. would that narrow things down? In the meantime i am going to go chaise some wires and get that alternator tested.

 

[Torxhead]

That does help, in my opinion, that is a good choice for the ignition. That icm is on the weak side, with the N.A.P.A.s Echlin brand a better and as usual more a expensive choice. That is if and when yours quits. Testing the alternator is a good place to start to determine if it is putting out any juice to the coil.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

You SURE this new solenoid is wired in correctly?
Do not run the coil for long on a 12vdc feed.
LG

 

[AWI001]

yep im sure the solenoid is right.... im thinking alternator.... cant find anyone that will test them in my area may need to get a refurb.

 

[mtnwhlr]

I don't think it is your alt. my '78 alt was bad and you could still jump start it and it would run as long as the batt was good. You have something else wrong.

 

[mtnwhlr]

I don't think it is your alt. my '78 alt was bad and you could still jump start it and it would run as long as the batt was good. You have something else wrong. I think it's your Ing switch.

 

[AWI001]

hmmm.

It runs when i hotwire + battery to + coil though. I put in a new switch and adjusted correctly as well. If its not the alt the only other possibility would be a short in the harness?