Build Thread 78 CJ-5 project
Build Thread 78 CJ-5 project
- Thread starter oldguy
- Start date
oldguy
Active Jeeper
Pete, It's a AMC 304 . Got a good garage fix today, needed it. I'm revamping the motor mounts making them narrower and fabricating a tc mount that is easier to clean out when getting back from a mud trip. Started off by measuring and leveling
and then leveling and measuring some more
and when I was sure of the placement I mocked up the motor mounts
when that was done I cut, ground and welded up the mounts. Once all was said and done I was actually able to lower the engine 2.5 inches and sit it back 2 inches which will help with the reverse shackle front and relocated rear suspension.
I made up a different Transmission /Transfer Case crossmember
If all goes well, which it usually doesn't working on a Jeep, I hope to get the engine and tc in tomorrow. Then on to the body mounting.
and then leveling and measuring some more
and when I was sure of the placement I mocked up the motor mounts
when that was done I cut, ground and welded up the mounts. Once all was said and done I was actually able to lower the engine 2.5 inches and sit it back 2 inches which will help with the reverse shackle front and relocated rear suspension.
I made up a different Transmission /Transfer Case crossmember
If all goes well, which it usually doesn't working on a Jeep, I hope to get the engine and tc in tomorrow. Then on to the body mounting.
oldguy
Active Jeeper
Well all didn't go well. A five minute job ended up in making a new tc mount, flipping the frame over to brace the center section and then setting the drive train. Got the mounts welded and part of the Transmission /tc mount in.
Always tomorrow!
oldguy
Active Jeeper
Today was better! I managed to finish up all the mounts and get the engine Transmission /tc in.
the lazer doesn't show up on film but you can sort of see the alignment of the rear axle and the Transfer Case using a straight edge. Straighter is better, not necessary since these arn't made to do a hundered but better.
My son and daughter-in-law are comming up today with my GRANDAUGHTERR so the garage will be taking a distant second for a few days.
Please enjoy Dave
the lazer doesn't show up on film but you can sort of see the alignment of the rear axle and the Transfer Case using a straight edge. Straighter is better, not necessary since these arn't made to do a hundered but better.
My son and daughter-in-law are comming up today with my GRANDAUGHTERR so the garage will be taking a distant second for a few days.
Please enjoy Dave
Its hard to see from the pics , but did you clock the Transfer Case up for more clearance or no?
oldguy
Active Jeeper
Got me on that one Pete? Not sure what you mean by clock but since I don't know what it is I probably didn't do it? What is it and will it give more center clearance because if I'm gonna do it now's the time.
Thanks Dave
You will have to get a clocking ring. Either that or Ive heard you can basically flip the Dana 300 over and it ends up being a driver side drop. With a clocking ring you can rotate the Transfer Case upward toward the floorpan and keep the passenger side drop. To get it nice and flat you have to modify your floor pan a bit as well. Seeing where your at in your build and the skills you have now would be the time.
Couple links. Make sure the Ebay one fits your application. That was a quick search I did.
Down East Offroad.com
Dana 300 Clocking Ring 44 60 Rockcrawler Jeep - eBay (item 190505473564 end time Mar-02-11 16:21:39 PST)
Couple links. Make sure the Ebay one fits your application. That was a quick search I did.
Down East Offroad.com
Dana 300 Clocking Ring 44 60 Rockcrawler Jeep - eBay (item 190505473564 end time Mar-02-11 16:21:39 PST)
oldguy
Active Jeeper
oldguy
Active Jeeper
Mocked the tub on the frame with wood blocks to align and level it.
Once the body mounts are installed the tub will sit 3/4" higher than it is now. I made up the mounts today and hope to get them tacked in tomorrow.
Once I can set the tub on the mounts I'll focus on the front clip. Then on the the steering.
Dave
Once the body mounts are installed the tub will sit 3/4" higher than it is now. I made up the mounts today and hope to get them tacked in tomorrow.
Once I can set the tub on the mounts I'll focus on the front clip. Then on the the steering.
Dave
oldguy
Active Jeeper
Tub is bolted down,for now and the front clip is bolted on. I needed to get the clip on so I can figure how and where to mount the steering box.
Here are a few pics of the body mounts. Once the tub is back off I'll shorten them to the end of the pucks and box the backs in.
I set the tilt column in to get the steering shaft angle and length again for the box placement.
Should get the steering buttoned up tomorrow.
Here are a few pics of the body mounts. Once the tub is back off I'll shorten them to the end of the pucks and box the backs in.
I set the tilt column in to get the steering shaft angle and length again for the box placement.
Should get the steering buttoned up tomorrow.
oldguy
Active Jeeper
Was able to get the steering box bounted. I made up a bolting plate and hung it from the overhead to get an idea of finished height
once that was measured and alinged I made up gussets and welded it up. This is a pic of the back of the bracket
then it was set in place and welded to the frame
steering box was put back on and I can steer it again after a year and a half
it aligns up rather nice to the tilt column base
I was able to get the box higher up into the frame eliminating another low spot. I had to use a 4" drop pitman to reduce the angle of the drag link but I think the system will run ok.
by the way all the plate used is 3/8" so I don't think I have to worry about flex.
Please enjoy Dave
once that was measured and alinged I made up gussets and welded it up. This is a pic of the back of the bracket
then it was set in place and welded to the frame
steering box was put back on and I can steer it again after a year and a half
it aligns up rather nice to the tilt column base
I was able to get the box higher up into the frame eliminating another low spot. I had to use a 4" drop pitman to reduce the angle of the drag link but I think the system will run ok.
by the way all the plate used is 3/8" so I don't think I have to worry about flex.
Please enjoy Dave
dalefan88
Crazy Sr. Respected Jeeper
this is ome sweet 
build 
you do some nice work.
build you do some nice work.oldguy
Active Jeeper
Thanks for the comments all!
I was able to get the grill support body mount done today. The tubing is all 1 1/2 X 1/8 square with 1/4 plate covering it. I went heavy with this because I'll weld a 2" reciever to the plate for a clevis slug and to quick mount a winch.
you'll notice the support has two mounting points instead of the factory single. I've done this on my last Jeep aslo, it helps to keep the fender to tub mounting points from cracking when I bounce off brush.
I'll fabricate a box (later) that clips in and out of the back of the Jeep replacing the rear seat when not needed. So I made up another set of mounts, like body mounts for the very back of the tub that connect the seat and/or box to the frame. A bit stronger than the fiberglass floor.
Hope to get the frame attachment points fabricated for the 6 point rollcage tomorrow. Then I can take ot all apart and spend a couple of days welding.
Dave
I was able to get the grill support body mount done today. The tubing is all 1 1/2 X 1/8 square with 1/4 plate covering it. I went heavy with this because I'll weld a 2" reciever to the plate for a clevis slug and to quick mount a winch.
you'll notice the support has two mounting points instead of the factory single. I've done this on my last Jeep aslo, it helps to keep the fender to tub mounting points from cracking when I bounce off brush.
I'll fabricate a box (later) that clips in and out of the back of the Jeep replacing the rear seat when not needed. So I made up another set of mounts, like body mounts for the very back of the tub that connect the seat and/or box to the frame. A bit stronger than the fiberglass floor.
Hope to get the frame attachment points fabricated for the 6 point rollcage tomorrow. Then I can take ot all apart and spend a couple of days welding.
Dave
oldguy
Active Jeeper
I finnaly got around to getting the sixpoint frame attachments built. The front of the rool bar looks like it mounts to the floor but it rests on a tube steel mount welded to the frame.
The rear of the bar sit the same as the front with the framing tucked up under the rear tub section.
with that stuff all tacked in I took it all apart again for a marathon welding session.
If all goes well, which as I've said before never does, I hope to get some more bracing in, all the welding done, and a coat of black rustolium slapped on, then on to the little stuff. brakes, fuel lines, shocks, axle stops ...........
The rear of the bar sit the same as the front with the framing tucked up under the rear tub section.
with that stuff all tacked in I took it all apart again for a marathon welding session.
If all goes well, which as I've said before never does, I hope to get some more bracing in, all the welding done, and a coat of black rustolium slapped on, then on to the little stuff. brakes, fuel lines, shocks, axle stops ...........
oldguy
Active Jeeper
Frame is welded, finally.
rear frame points for roll bar
front frame point for roll bar (center one, boxed tubing)
fishplated on center frame bends
Now to mount fuel tank, shocks and sway bar and..........
rear frame points for roll bar
front frame point for roll bar (center one, boxed tubing)
fishplated on center frame bends
Now to mount fuel tank, shocks and sway bar and..........
oldguy
Active Jeeper
Got the frame coated with red oxide primer.
Now on to the axles. There were a lot of new parts on this but the maintainence was a little lacking. As the pics show the spindle bearings, front hub bearings, inner axle tube seals, outer axle dust seals and ball joints were toast.
This picture shows the inner seal, in pieces, falling out of the tube when I pulled the shaft.
In order to remove the ball joints I had to cut them with a torch. The ball joint press I have wouldn't remove them.
I hope to get the front axle done tomorrow and then the rear. With less parts, hopefully less rebuilding???
Now on to the axles. There were a lot of new parts on this but the maintainence was a little lacking. As the pics show the spindle bearings, front hub bearings, inner axle tube seals, outer axle dust seals and ball joints were toast.
This picture shows the inner seal, in pieces, falling out of the tube when I pulled the shaft.
In order to remove the ball joints I had to cut them with a torch. The ball joint press I have wouldn't remove them.
I hope to get the front axle done tomorrow and then the rear. With less parts, hopefully less rebuilding???
IOPort51
NOT the voice of reason Jeep-CJ.com
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- Vehicle(s)
- 1977 cj-5
4.2 W/MC2100 carb, 4.0 head W/3 angle valves,SS Header,TFI ignition with MSB-6 offroad module,CS144 140 amp RPS alternator with remote regulator T-150,d-20,Dana 44 with OX lock and disk brakes. D-30 with Spartin locker,
skyjacker 2.5 lift?nitro shocks,31" BFG A/T off road.8000 lb Warn winch, original owner.=^)
2006 Toyota Tacoma
your frame is a joy to behold.
your frame is a joy to behold.
Thats for sure. Also thats the way to remove ball joints.
God I hate that job.oldguy
Active Jeeper
Thanks IO and Pete, it was acutally fun to build.
The shocks came in today but untill I get the axles done and back on they have to wait. Speaking of axles, HOLY
!! What should have been just a repack job has turned into replacing everything. I should buy stock in the local Auto Value.
Everything is cleaned up and ready to go back together
BUT, I ended up having to cut out the tapered sleeve that tightens up the ball joint and now have to either replace the axel end or get a really big tap to rethread it.
Well the weekend is here so I'll probably take a break from the garage. BBQ and Bud Tomorrow!
The shocks came in today but untill I get the axles done and back on they have to wait. Speaking of axles, HOLY
!! What should have been just a repack job has turned into replacing everything. I should buy stock in the local Auto Value.Everything is cleaned up and ready to go back together
BUT, I ended up having to cut out the tapered sleeve that tightens up the ball joint and now have to either replace the axel end or get a really big tap to rethread it.
Well the weekend is here so I'll probably take a break from the garage. BBQ and Bud Tomorrow!