'80 CJ5 vs '66 Military Jeep

[TDHofstetter]

Really or sarcastically? lol I can never tell on the Internet.

Thanks for the tip. I was wondering what a fair offer would be. I think they are willing to come down, but there's also another potential buyer that I could be bidding against.

By the way, what is the best way to determine if the chrome hides rust? Or is there a way? If I crawl under and look at the back side, would I be able to see signs of it?

Really - it's prettier than a Jeep Jeep has a right to be, all dressed up & shiny like that, no dust... hasn't got quite as much shiny stuff as my CJ7 , but that's how it was when I bought it... and my '7's pretty dirty now.

I'd offer... I think... $4750 to start, with as much of that being countable cash money, folding money, talking money, as possible... and then only if they can produce a valid title (if that's possible where you live). Vermont won't issue a title for any vehicle older than - I think - 14 years.

That chrome, by the bye, isn't chrome - it's polished aluminum. Behind it, you can rest assured, will be SOME rust... and if it ain't there now, it will be. Those armor plates wick moisture in & don't let it go (capillary effect), and if you seal 'em with silicone you seal moisture inside, too. Besides which you can't seal it ALL EVERYWHERE PERFECTLY.

That said, I bought some armor identical to that for one of my '5's because it's got a couple issues that're not worth dealing with otherwise - some wiseacre tried towing it by hooking through the gas filler hole, like that. Not me - before me. It's just easier to add armor than to make that damage look right again.

Get on your hands & knees, get on your back, feel up inside the rear wheelwells. Feel the inside of the fenders all through that area. You're feeling for anything other than flat, smooth, painted steel. While you're there, look closely at the rear spring shackle mounts and the rear of the frame where they mount. That's a classic spot that collects water, salt, sand, mud... and rusts like crazy. Crawl a little further and pick out each of the rubber body mounts - they should all look pretty much alike. That's another common rustpocket. Look inside the rear of each of the front fenders, where mud & sand & salt are sprayed up by the rolling or spinning wheel. Feel there - feel for rust bubbles or anything other than smooth, painted steel. If it sells for that sorta' money, bigods, it BETTER be DANGED GOOD.

 

[essexmo]

Really - it's prettier than a Jeep Jeep has a right to be, all dressed up & shiny like that, no dust... hasn't got quite as much shiny stuff as my CJ7 , but that's how it was when I bought it... and my '7's pretty dirty now.

I'd offer... I think... $4750 to start, with as much of that being countable cash money, folding money, talking money, as possible... and then only if they can produce a valid title (if that's possible where you live). Vermont won't issue a title for any vehicle older than - I think - 14 years.

That chrome, by the bye, isn't chrome - it's polished aluminum. Behind it, you can rest assured, will be SOME rust... and if it ain't there now, it will be. Those armor plates wick moisture in & don't let it go (capillary effect), and if you seal 'em with silicone you seal moisture inside, too. Besides which you can't seal it ALL EVERYWHERE PERFECTLY.

That said, I bought some armor identical to that for one of my '5's because it's got a couple issues that're not worth dealing with otherwise - some wiseacre tried towing it by hooking through the gas filler hole, like that. Not me - before me. It's just easier to add armor than to make that damage look right again.

Get on your hands & knees, get on your back, feel up inside the rear wheelwells. Feel the inside of the fenders all through that area. You're feeling for anything other than flat, smooth, painted steel. While you're there, look closely at the rear spring shackle mounts and the rear of the frame where they mount. That's a classic spot that collects water, salt, sand, mud... and rusts like crazy. Crawl a little further and pick out each of the rubber body mounts - they should all look pretty much alike. That's another common rustpocket. Look inside the rear of each of the front fenders, where mud & sand & salt are sprayed up by the rolling or spinning wheel. Feel there - feel for rust bubbles or anything other than smooth, painted steel. If it sells for that sorta' money, bigods, it BETTER be DANGED GOOD.

X2 you also want to make shure its mecanically fine too as it looks like a mall crawler

 

[gollyjeepers]

mall crawler

?? I'm not good at this lingo business

 

[essexmo]

?? I'm not good at this lingo business

mall crawler one that kids race around malls and back roads and pose in it it never sees the dirt and there more worried about the paint than changing the oil

 

[gollyjeepers]

mall crawler one that kids race around malls and back roads and pose in it it never sees the dirt and there more worried about the paint than changing the oil

Oh lol. I was afraid of that. I told my dad when I was telling him about it that I didn't want to end up looking like Ken Barbie or something haha.

I like the looks of it, but I'll admit it's a little flashier than I would normally go. And I have no interest in racing around malls I'm more the throw-my-mountain-bike-in-the-back-and-go or tie-a-kayak-on-the-top-and-go type a guy.

I would like to do some off-roading if given the chance. I've never done any, but have a good friend that does a lot in an older model Cherokee he's worked on.

 

[essexmo]

Oh lol. I was afraid of that. I told my dad when I was telling him about it that I didn't want to end up looking like Ken Barbie or something haha.

I like the looks of it, but I'll admit it's a little flashier than I would normally go. And I have no interest in racing around malls I'm more the throw-my-mountain-bike-in-the-back-and-go or tie-a-kayak-on-the-top-and-go type a guy.

I would like to do some off-roading if given the chance. I've never done any, but have a good friend that does a lot in an older model Cherokee he's worked on.

off roading = loads of scratches depending on where you go if thats the case i would get a cheaper one you wouldnt care about scratching or denting

 

[Old Dog]

Here's my 2 cents. The 66 is going to cost you way more money than you have to fix up, and parts are going to be hard to find, so it's out.
The CJ5 and your 6'2 frame plus all the bling you don't want might not be right either.
I would look for a good CJ7 .

 

[mylittlecj5]

I'm not sure if this has been covered ir might even be a moot point by now, but in most states that M151 CANNOT be titled or driven on the streets, due to the independent rear suspension.
Most of them, upon retiring from the military, were crushed by a tracked vehicle (think tank or dozer) to keep them from being rebuilt.
Run away from it if you want to drive one on the streets.

 

[gollyjeepers]

Well thank you all for the input. I've been looking at different ones for a few months and test drove several, but test driving the 80 CJ5 over the weekend, I knew it was the best one for me. It's in really good shape and I sealed the deal and bought it.

One problem has arisen. While driving today, suddenly there was no resistance at all in the clutch pedal, it was just hanging loose. My dad and I took a look and the connecting rod from the clutch master cylinder to the pedal had disconnected completely and the retaining ring thing was out. We ordered a new master cylinder and I have a repair manual. Well be fixing it tomorrow.

Other than that it's been great!

Again, thanks for your opinions and input. I'll try posting a vid once I install the new master cylinder.

 

[diddy2003]

CJ5 hands down. You can drive and enjoy the 5 right now. That military jeep doesn't look like it would be fun to drive around even when completed. The 5 also has a ton of parts available for it. You can do anything you want to it with ease. The same can not be said for that military one.