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82 4.0 T5 D300 issues

82 4.0 T5 D300 issues

ericnievas

Jeeper
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Location
Leasburg NC
Vehicle(s)
1982 Jeep CJ-7 with 4.0 T-5 and dana 300 AMC 20 with one piece axle and disk brake conversion 411 gearing family roll bar mod along with factory ac and 4 in lift flex lite fan
So I have a 1982 Jeep CJ7 that i did the 4.0 swap man what a dream that is runs great but i have a problem I put a New clutch and 4.0 flywheel along with a 4.0 starter now my Clutch does not want to enable gear changes and i placed all new linkage and the flywheel is eating into the base of the starter. i am to the point now of thinking of swiping in a AX15 since i know for sure those came behind the 4.0 and should not have a problem does any body have any suggestions.
 
You said that you can't push in on the clutch after it worked fine for 2-3 weeks. My experience with something like this is that one or more of the springs from the clutch disc have broken and pieces of them got wedged somewhere that prevents or makes it very hard to depress the pedal. This seems unlikely with a new clutch, but it can happen. Can you pull the clutch fork boot off and look and feel inside to make sure that at least the fork and throw out bearing are where they should be? Are there any grinding sounds coming from the clutch when you try to depress the pedal? (engine running) If you are not getting any weird sounds, I would start by reinspecting the linkages all the way from the clutch pedal to the bell crank to the clutch fork. If the cotter pin at the pedal came out, it may be binding there. You may even want to disconnect the push rod from the pocket on the fork and make sure that all the linkage is working freely with the clutch itself out of the loop. Then, with the linkage still removed, try to move the clutch fork back and forth with your hand to see if it moves freely before contacting the pressure plate. This should take the fork, ball, and throw out bearing out of the equation. Remove the stone shield from the bottom of the bell housing and look for any small pieces of clutch springs. Often larger pieces won't make it to the front of the flywheel, but it's worth looking at before completely removing the Transmission and clutch assembly, because that is pretty much the next step in my opinion.
 
and the flywheel is eating into the base of the starter. .
All good points Mriplaybass but I don't think it would cause this I think he has something come loose like maybe the flywheel. Time to pull it back apart.
 
All good points Mriplaybass but I don't think it would cause this I think he has something come loose like maybe the flywheel. Time to pull it back apart.
:agree:
Though a definite possibility I would think that a loose flywheel would really be making a lot of noise given the close tolerance to the bell housing not to mention vibration, which the OP did not mention. But I definitely agree, time to pull it back apart.
 
So I have decided to pull the body off and do a fresh paint and repair some rust that has popped back since last restore while it is off i plan on pulling the 300 out and doing all the seals with only 60000 miles on the drive line i don't feel a rebuild is nescesary at that point i will go through the T-5 and probably go ahead and drop in a AX15 with the clocking ring. i am also going to sand blast the frame and use por15 to seal the frame and repaint every thing
 
Let us know what you find when you pull it apart. A lot of us would like to put a 4.0 in our CJs, like me and want to learn what to avoid.
 
I will say that putting the 4.0 in the jeep was the best choice i ever made plus with 33 and 4.10 gearing i was getting 20 MPG in the jeep. I was scared of the wiring at first but after i did it was nothing and i got the blue print on where to cut the hole in the bell housing for CPS and that worked first try. if you need any advice on dropping a 4.0 in i can help.
 
Hesco for the wiring. It really is a no brainer. Just $$.

Just a thought... Check the clearance you have on your linkage around the exhaust. When I did the swap, (4.0 head/intake/FI) the 4.0 exhaust headers come very close to the clutch arm. So close I ended up cutting the head and re-welding the entire exhaust. If stock, if it was even slightly loose it could get caught up and lock up.


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the linkage cleared the exhaust cause i had to use a flex pipe on the exhaust to hook it up to the CJ7 exhaust i have a funny feeling it has to do with the pilot bushing. and the fact that i also left the inspection cover off between the engine and Transmission . but my new 7hp 60 gal compressor is here now to place a 220 outlet in the garage and than we can start tear down. ill post more as i start the process
 
Well i have started to tear down the CJ to do a full restore i also picked up a YJ Tub to do a trailer to tow behind the CJ i will start a Build post to show progress of the restore mod
 

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