'82 CJ7 - finally started

[mjp2]

So I've finally gotten around to tearing down my Jeep project. It's an '82 CJ7 with the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l . All stock so far, but in real rough shape. The motor does roll over smooth, so I'm assuming it's good, and I'd like to keep it. What I don't want to keep are all the emissions components under the hood as I wont be required to have any inspection of any sort. I've done some searches and I think I got my head wrapped around how to re-route everything. If anyone has any other pointers, hints, warnings or otherwise I'd really appreciate the input. if there's a thread detailing this on here that ya'll know works, that would be awesome. Also, since the wiring all has to go too, is there another way besides the factory ignition control? A simple aftermarket setup maybe. I'd like to set it up with just an power on/off switch and a momentary starter switch. (no keys to lose, less wiring to deal with, and it won't be left anywhere it 'll get messed with.) This is the first Jeep I've ever worked on, so thanks in advance for any input!

 

[Saddle Tramp]

Keep the EGR valve as it lowers the temperature in the combustion chambers but cost virtually nothing to run.

 

[jeepboy45]

Keep the EGR valve as it lowers the temperature in the combustion chambers but cost virtually nothing to run.

Can you explain that? I'd never heard that before, but would like to know more about it..
thanks
brian

 

[PaRenegade]

Do a search for a "nutter bypass". John Nutter detailed out how to rid your Jeep of the factory computer and it's assoc. wiring mass.

 

[Jimbos76cj]

What I don't want to keep are all the emissions components under the hood as I wont be required to have any inspection of any sort.

X2 on the nutter. the wires coming out of back of the fuse block split into 2 Halfs. Left side runs all your Emission and engine stuff. Right side is all the lights for the front and rear.

If you nutter it you can honestly cut 3/4 of the wires out and 75% of the vacuum lines.

Also, since the wiring all has to go too, is there another way besides the factory ignition control? A simple aftermarket setup maybe. I'd like to set it up with just an power on/off switch and a momentary starter switch. (no keys to lose, less wiring to deal with, and it won't be left anywhere it 'll get messed with.) This is the first Jeep I've ever worked on, so thanks in advance for any input!

IF you want to make it super easy replace your factory gauges with mechanical ones. that will cut out alot of wires, do the nutter bypass and ad a HEI distributor. you will only then have maybe 5-6 wires in the engine compartment other then the lighting loom

 

[mjp2]

Thanks for the input! Greatly appreciated.

One question though, I looked up the Nutter Bypass, and correct me if I'm wrong (I probably am) but from what I read, It's for '83 and up models. Will the same procedure apply to the '82? Sorry, I'm not yet familiar with all the year to year changes. Thanks again!

 

[Saddle Tramp]

Can you explain that? I'd never heard that before, but would like to know more about it..
thanks
brian

The EGR valve actually passes a little exhaust back into the cylinder on the intake stroke. As the exhaust is already burnt it is an inert gas. The net effect is that it lowers the temperature in the cylinder during combustion which in turn lowers the amount of hydrocarbons produced. Higher temperatures = more hydrocarbons so by lowering the combustion temperature = less pollution. Less pollution of course is a good thing in of its self, hence the reason an EGR is part of many pollution controls systems but the side benefit of lowering the combustion temperature is also less wear and tear on the engine which = a longer lasting engine. As there are no moving parts to the ERG such as an air pump would have for example, there is no drag or loss of horse power anyone would ever notice.

 

[jeepboy45]

The EGR valve actually passes a little exhaust back into the cylinder on the intake stroke. As the exhaust is already burnt it is an inert gas. The net effect is that it lowers the temperature in the cylinder during combustion which in turn lowers the amount of hydrocarbons produced. Higher temperatures = more hydrocarbons so by lowering the combustion temperature = less pollution. Less pollution of course is a good thing in of its self, hence the reason an EGR is part of many pollution controls systems but the side benefit of lowering the combustion temperature is also less wear and tear on the engine which = a longer lasting engine. As there are no moving parts to the ERG such as an air pump would have for example, there is no drag or loss of horse power anyone would ever notice.

Question: I know that regular air (not oxygen) isnt combustible. But doesnt having the relatively "inert" exhaust gas, somehow lower HP by replacing air in the combustion process? Just a dumb question, thought I'd ask...

 

[Jimbos76cj]

Thanks for the input! Greatly appreciated.

One question though, I looked up the Nutter Bypass, and correct me if I'm wrong (I probably am) but from what I read, It's for '83 and up models. Will the same procedure apply to the '82? Sorry, I'm not yet familiar with all the year to year changes. Thanks again!

My apologies.. Forgot they started the computer in 83. I would still double check for the comp stuff.. It sounds like you trying to get around the key switch. You can but keep in mind the also unlocks the steerig wheel do unless you pull the wheel apart and disable the lock mechanism you will need a key to operate it.

 

[PaRenegade]

I'm thinking some states did have the computers in earlier models. I could be wrong. But by the sounds of it you have a lot of wiring and such, whereas in my 82, which I've owned since 82, doesn't have a whole lot of wiring that is used for emission stuff. Did you check and see if you have a computer module? It lays under the dash on top of the airbox plenum. Do you have any pics of the engine compartment?

Jimbo - Could you tell me what the box is mounted on the pass. fender beside the solenoid, w/ 6 or 8 wires coming out the top? What is it and what is it's purpose? I don't recall.

 

[Jimbos76cj]

I'm thinking some states did have the computers in earlier models. I could be wrong. But by the sounds of it you have a lot of wiring and such, whereas in my 82, which I've owned since 82, doesn't have a whole lot of wiring that is used for emission stuff. Did you check and see if you have a computer module? It lays under the dash on top of the airbox plenum. Do you have any pics of the engine compartment?

Jimbo - Could you tell me what the box is mounted on the pass. fender beside the solenoid, w/ 6 or 8 wires coming out the top? What is it and what is it's purpose? I don't recall.

On mine all I have on the passenger side fender is the starter solenoid. My buddies 81 has a silver ignition module on his right side. A pic of the offending box would be super helpful. My ignition module is on the Drivers side fender. When i redid my wiring I seperated my Ignition module from my main harness so I can move it into the pass compartment and keep it dry. also when i finally swap over to a HEI it will be easy to remove the un needed wires. Mines an 84. Ill go grab some pics later to show how its wired.

 

[PaRenegade]

Yes my ignition module is still under the wiper fluid bottle. Here's the box in it's original mounting spot.

 

[Jimbos76cj]

Heres what I got.. obviously it being an 84 is a little different.







This is where the ignition module is mounted on 83 and up. Drivers fender

 

[mjp2]

I have some grayish/white box under the dash on the driver's side, and the same small box next to the starter solenoid on the passenger fender. My guess is, I can just power up an aftermarket ignition box (MSD, or the like) with a power switch, and do away with all the factory ignition wiring, being that I'm gonna go with a steering column with no key or anything else for that matter, and switches for the ignition/starter. I know, it sounds more like a race car than anything, but I want simple as possible. I plan on building my own harness out of one of the Painless universal kits. Since I don't need any emissions testing or anything, I'm gonna toe a fine line between cruisin around town, and some backwoods wheelin. Keep the input comin! I've been doing a lot of reading, in between my wrenching sessions. The jeep bug has got me good....

 

[mtnwhlr]

Yours doesn't have a computer so no need for a nutter bypass.

 

[Jimbos76cj]

To make the ignition as easy as possible change out to a HEI set up. A msd box will will require a few extra wires. The HEI is a one wire hook up. The only thing that keeps me from building my own harness for my project is the blinker circuit. I can do evey thing else with the wiring but not 100% on how that we up works. I'm sure with some time and research it won't be hard

 

[Omahacj]

Are you talking about the ign. module??

 

[Jimbos76cj]

Are you talking about the ign. module??

I thinks that what we decided it was.. Ignition module.

 

[PaRenegade]

Not sure who your referring to Omahacj, but if it was me then no it's not. As I said earlier, that's located on the drivers side fender under the wiper fluid bottle. This box is, I'm finding out, an idle control module but I'm not sure what else it does. Theres six wires, one goes to the auto choke and vacumn solenoid, another to the manifold heater, and I'm not sure about the rest. I wanted to disect my harness this weekend but didn't get a chance.

Sorry, I don't mean to highjack his build thread.