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im looking at buying a 1982 CJ7 , it has been lifted and put on 44's but the steering box they have on jeep rubs when turned to the right idk much about jeeps so trying to explore my options. i will put a picture up so you can see what im talking about the steering box is on the outside of the frame?
im looking at buying a 1982 CJ7 , it has been lifted and put on 44's but the steering box they have on jeep rubs when turned to the right idk much about jeeps so trying to explore my options. i will put a picture up so you can see what im talking about the steering box is on the outside of the frame?
Well it's pretty obvious that whoever did the modifications was not very good at his trade..........Of course with different backspace wheels or spacers that may be able to be corrected , but that track width already seems wide.
Might want to take a hard look at the rest of his handy work!
Ha I know what you mean! Is this a stock steering box or is this off something else? Wheni was researching I seen a box tht was on inside and only "pitman" arm I guess Ud call it came to outside of frame
Ha I know what you mean! Is this a stock steering box or is this off something else? Wheni was researching I seen a box tht was on inside and only "pitman" arm I guess Ud call it came to outside of frame
Hard to tell from your picture.......looks like a Saginaw box which would have been Stock or at least one like that..........Problem is with spring over axle suspension as it looks to be in this case there is a host of other steering geometry issues that must be paid attention to in order to get a reliable steering system..............a closer picture would help, but keep in mind diagnosing that over the computer is next to impossible!
Hard to tell from your picture.......looks like a Saginaw box which would have been Stock or at least one like that..........Problem is with spring over axle suspension as it looks to be in this case there is a host of other steering geometry issues that must be paid attention to in order to get a reliable steering system..............a closer picture would help, but keep in mind diagnosing that over the computer is next to impossible!
IMHO, this is the best and only way to setup the steering on that work of art.
Also, unless you have some pretty good fab skills I would run away... My first thought is that looks like a project that went wrong. I could easily be mistaken though.
IMHO, this is the best and only way to setup the steering on that work of art.
Also, unless you have some pretty good fab skills I would run away... My first thought is that looks like a project that went wrong. I could easily be mistaken though.
I was kind of thinking the same thing -- an abandoned project, or one gone wrong (much like mine...LOL )
Anyway, that's not a stock steering box out of a Jeep. Without seeing it up close, it's either a Chevy steering box, or one from a Scout, Toyota, or possibly other. All those mounted outside the frame rail. He probably put that on in some attempt to make steering like a Chevy, which you DON'T want. Your best bet would be to put a Jeep steering box back on (Some also replace them with a Durango box, as it allegedly has stronger internals) and build a crossover steering setup. With that axle appearing to be a Dana 44 , parts are readily available for crossover. That's one way to right the wrongs going on. Another would be to ditch the lift springs and correct the caster/pinion angles with the front axle, since no compensation was made for those when a shackle reversal was done. I've never made that mistake before, either.
EDIT: I think I'd get rid of the giant lift blocks in the back, too. With that height front and rear, there is no way in the world for driveshafts to hook up. IF they do, and I stress BIG IF, you won't be able to have any axle droop before snapping off u-joints.
I was kind of thinking the same thing -- an abandoned project, or one gone wrong (much like mine...LOL )
Anyway, that's not a stock steering box out of a Jeep. Without seeing it up close, it's either a Chevy steering box, or one from a Scout, Toyota, or possibly other. All those mounted outside the frame rail. He probably put that on in some attempt to make steering like a Chevy, which you DON'T want. Your best bet would be to put a Jeep steering box back on (Some also replace them with a Durango box, as it allegedly has stronger internals) and build a crossover steering setup. With that axle appearing to be a Dana 44 , parts are readily available for crossover. That's one way to right the wrongs going on. Another would be to ditch the lift springs and correct the caster/pinion angles with the front axle, since no compensation was made for those when a shackle reversal was done. I've never made that mistake before, either.
EDIT: I think I'd get rid of the giant lift blocks in the back, too. With that height front and rear, there is no way in the world for driveshafts to hook up. IF they do, and I stress BIG IF, you won't be able to have any axle droop before snapping off u-joints.
IMHO, this is the best and only way to setup the steering on that work of art.
Also, unless you have some pretty good fab skills I would run away... My first thought is that looks like a project that went wrong. I could easily be mistaken though.
I've gotten pretty good at fabricating things after working on all my buddies "projects" that they never could finish.. Like I said I don't know much at all about jeeps, thts the reason I'm on here to learn what others have been doing.. So if y'all don't mind telling me where he messed up, or what could have been done differently, I would greatly appreciate it!
I can get the jeep for 3,000. It has a 350 Chevy and auto Transmission (not sure what kind as I haven't looked tht close) tht was just rebuilt. Motor sounds good. He had this thing in running condition on 37" but when he got the 44" thts when he started "fabbing" and never finished.. Should I shy away or may be ok deal? I just want a project I can work on in my free time with over all goal of me a mud buggy and maybe some trails
83 CJ7 350 tbi, TH350, D300 twin sticked & clocked, narrowed Chief D44 Eaton Elocker & Moser shafts, Explorer 8.8 Detroit locker, 410's, RE 4.5" spring lift 1" body lift, 35" Claws, cage tied to frame, Corbeau baja seats, HD tie rod and draglink, u-bolts flipped, custom skid plate and sliders, Warn 9.5ti winch with Amsteel synthetic line
I would at the VERY least lower the suspension several inches. You don't need that much wheel travel, especially not for mud. Mud is my A/O, and I can show you pics of rigs that you would never think would be able to literally fly through 18-24" of muck. The pic of your ideal rig wasn't on 44s, unless you're talking about the axles. That had 37" Super Swamper SSR's. That would look a little goofy on that much height and 37's.
If you would like to keep it on 44s, I'd do hydro assist at the very least. I've drilled and tapped my steering box for hydro assist, so I could at least take some pics to show locations of the ports if that would be any help. It's not a hard job to do, one must just keep everything clean.
What Transfer Case does he have in the Jeep? That would make or break some of the sale price to me. Having a SBC 350 and whatever tranny (likely a TH350 -- Take a pic of the Transmission pan and post it up and we'll tell you what it is) doesn't jack up the sale price IMHO. swap parts are cheap, and so are 350s for that matter. The only thing that jeep has "going" for it is having 44s bolted on. I'd look at it as what you have to do to it to get it moving and moving right. I would NOT look at it as what it has sitting there.
Down to dollars and sense (Yes, I meant to spell it that way ) -- Just for example, I bought my CJ 9 years ago from a friend in running, driving, tagged and inspected legal condition. All lights worked, I got both a bikini top and a hard top. It had an AMC 360 V8, a T-176 4 speed Transmission and Dana 300Transfer Case . Factory axles had 4.10 gears and an Eaton locker in the rear. 33" tires with excellent tread. Also had a 12,000 lb Mile Marker winch on the front. Bad things were it smoked (burned oil) and the carb needed rebuilt, so it ran a little rough. I bought it off of the guy for $2500, which would have been only $2000 if I didn't want the winch. I put only $200 into it, and I had it running like a top and burning clean exhaust. If it were me, I'd start off negotiating with him at $1700. Those Boggers aren't new. To be quite honest, they're down to less than half tread. 3/4 ton axles can be had for $200-$400 for a set. Running SBCs can be had for $4-500 and Chevy trannies can be had for $350 or less. I've seen CJ bodies/frames (potentially even rolling chassis less drivetrain) around me for $750ish. If you go see the Jeep again, and you like it, make sure you take a short stack of Bennies with you. Talk money with him, shoot him an offer (like I said, I'd suggest $1700). If he balks, flash the green. That works, almost every time. Not that I would know that one either.
Long story longer, the storal of my mory is this -- if you want this Jeep, go for it. The big matter here is if you have the time, money, and other resources to make it right. Just be prepared, it will be much, MUCH more work than you are currently anticipating. The learning curve will likely be very steep. Keep us updated, and if you have a chance to see it in person again, take some pics and post them up. Good luck.
im looking at buying a 1982 CJ7 , it has been lifted and put on 44's but the steering box they have on jeep rubs when turned to the right idk much about jeeps so trying to explore my options. i will put a picture up so you can see what im talking about the steering box is on the outside of the frame?
im looking at buying a 1982 CJ7 , it has been lifted and put on 44's but the steering box they have on jeep rubs when turned to the right idk much about jeeps so trying to explore my options. i will put a picture up so you can see what im talking about the steering box is on the outside of the frame?
Well it's pretty obvious that whoever did the modifications was not very good at his trade..........Of course with different backspace wheels or spacers that may be able to be corrected , but that track width already seems wide.
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