'83 CJ 7 Stalls

[Comandercody]

Maybe its time to get some experience. I would think there is a lot of online info and repair manuals to get you going and answer any questions. It still hasn't been verified that the carb is even the issue though, but the carb is a good start. Looking back at post #18 the coil could be at issue due to a wiring problem. You should get 6 volts with the ignition on from the coil positive terminal and the ground, and full battery voltage when you crank the starter. There should also be about 1.35 ohms between the positive and negative posts on the coil.

Using the multimeter pictured, I tested your suggestions above. I made sure i was on Volt, DC. With ignition turned to on, engine not cranked, positive coil terminal red lead, black lead to ground or battery negative, it read 11.4, it varied, but stayed on 11.4 mostly. I did not start it with multimeter attached tonight because my boy was asleep.

Ohms read 1.4 when testing coil terminals.

Is that bad?

 

[Torxhead]

With the ignition key in the on position, there should be less volts than that between the coil posts. There is a resistance between the coil and the alternator that is supposed to cut down the volts going to the coil or there could be a problem with the relay. When you turn the ignition key to the start position the resistance wire is bypassed and there is full battery voltage going to the coil. Just when did this problem start?

 

[Comandercody]

The stall problem has been intermittent since I bought it. Gotten worse lately.

 

[Comandercody]

OK, based on some suggestions from another forum I ran a hot wire from the positive battery terminal to the positive coil terminal and started her up. No stalling. Took it around the block, no stalling.

So, problem between ignition switch and coil?

Any suggestions on next steps??

Ignition switch was replaced in May.

Thanks for any and all advice.

 

[mtnwhlr]

As I said in post 17 if you are still using that plastic plug try getting rid of it and wire it direct.

 

[Comandercody]

As I said in post 17 if you are still using that plastic plug try getting rid of it and wire it direct.

Would you solder it to the post? Just worried about it slipping off if I just wrapped it.....

 

[mtnwhlr]

What I did was I went to Autozone and got a MSD Blaster coil. It has thearded studs with nuts and cut off that plastic plug and put new ends on the wires.

 

[Hedgehog]

While working on my '75 one thing jumped out at me. Many of the wires on the motor, even those wires inside the wiring loom were essentially cooked. They were brittle and cracked in many places. Also most of the connections were badly frayed at the connections.

 

[Torxhead]

For connecting the wires to the coil, I would suggest using eye terminals soldered to the wires. There is probably a bad wire in there somewhere causing the coil to go bad.

 

[Comandercody]

Traced the red wire from the ignition switch to the positive coil and found some weird splices.

First pic is under the dash, second pic is on the engine side of the firewall. The connections look corroded and weak. What is the best way to connect 3 wires?, it wont fit in a butt connector...

 

[Torxhead]

Those connections are oem. To clean up you could strip back some more insulation, crimp in a larger butt connector, solder, and cover with heat shrink tube. I doubt if they were causing any issues. There are wiring diagrams for your vehicle, complete with color codes and wire sizes to check for p.o. mods.

 

[Comandercody]

Those connections are oem. To clean up you could strip back some more insulation, crimp in a larger butt connector, solder, and cover with heat shrink tube. I doubt if they were causing any issues. There are wiring diagrams for your vehicle, complete with color codes and wire sizes to check for p.o. mods.

Thanks Torx. They had duct tape on them. Didn't think OEM would use duct tape. Who knew??

 

[Hedgehog]

I found the exact same connections in my '75, duct tape and all. My duct tape lost it's sticky and was just cloth with a gray outer covering.

 

[Torxhead]

As I recall,that duct tape should have been wrapped around the distributor trigger wires to help prevent radio static. That tape is oem also.

 

[Comandercody]

Just bought a real multimeter. Tested volts on coil positive and battery ground. Read 10.5-11. You said it should be 6 or so. Would resistor be under dash?

 

[Torxhead]

There is a dark brown resistor wire between the alternator and a red wire going to the coil positive. If it has been shortened like to shorten its excessive length it will bring up the voltage. I really don't think that is causing your problem though. There might be another under the dash, but that is getting beyond me.
Edit: Doing some research that resistor wire can be purchased at N.A.P.A. p/n icr22 should have 1.35 ohms of resistance. If beyond that it could burn up a coil or icm. I have shortened my CJs resistor and I get 9 volts with no issues using a Ford coil and a Echlin icm.