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No worries at all, if you’re referring to my update regarding the AMC20 rear axle, the axle tubes are just pressed into the differential housing (normally). When I rebuilt mine I welded the tubes to the housing for stronger contact. It eliminates the possibility of breaking the axle under large stresses (e.g. off-roading) due to the tubes pulling away or spinning in the housing.
You can go a step further and weld a truss across the diff housing to further reinforce each side, depends on what you want to do with the Jeep.
I was rebuilding the axle, so I went ahead and did it as it gains a lot with little effort relative to all the other work.
No worries at all, if you’re referring to my update regarding the AMC20 rear axle, the axle tubes are just pressed into the differential housing (normally). When I rebuilt mine I welded the tubes to the housing for stronger contact. It eliminates the possibility of breaking the axle under large stresses (e.g. off-roading) due to the tubes pulling away or spinning in the housing.
You can go a step further and weld a truss across the diff housing to further reinforce each side, depends on what you want to do with the Jeep.
I was rebuilding the axle, so I went ahead and did it as it gains a lot with little effort relative to all the other work.
What kind a welder did you use. I have access to a 110 amp welder mig welder. My AMC20 is out right now and I will be rebuilding it. Seems like a no brained to weld the tubes.
Welding the tubes to the pumpkin takes some skill as the pumpkin is cast. I believe you have to heat the cast portion before welding. The tubes are regular steel, just need to be able to get hot enough for thickness. I had a local shop do mine. Be mindful of brake line hold down location and vent tube.
What kind a welder did you use. I have access to a 110 amp welder mig welder. My AMC20 is out right now and I will be rebuilding it. Seems like a no brained to weld the tubes.
I also had a local shop do mine. It cost me about $50 to bring it to the shop after everything was disassembled. They skip weld it since The tube tends to pull in the direction of the weld slightly therefore they tack one side then the opposite to counter act the pulling before going all the way around versus taking the bead all the way around from the get-go. It took the guy an afternoon.
Mdeluca I’ve looked over your write up on the heater box rebuild. In your experience do I need to replace my blower fan. I noticed a couple blades are dinged up after I cleaned it.
My guess is it’s not that big of a deal. Thoughts?
Mdeluca I’ve looked over your write up on the heater box rebuild. In your experience do I need to replace my blower fan. I noticed a couple blades are dinged up after I cleaned it.
My guess is it’s not that big of a deal. Thoughts?
Thanks. Yeah, my thoughts too until I opened the box. It was a mess in there. Pieces of the heater core piping were laying in the bottom which would explain why my heater never worked. And I’m pretty sure mice were living in the fan wheel.
Haha. Thanks. It’s an AX15 from Novak. It also has the adapter plate to mate it to my Dana 300 . I rebuilt my T-5 and then sold it after I decided to go all in on the 350 sbc. I’ve heard great things about this 5 speed.
They sent me a straight shifter with it, ready to bend to my preference.
84 CJ7 4 banger-owned since new in 1984 bought off truck at dealership - rebuilding 258, T176 with Sniper EFI D300 4:1 Lomax gears Twin Sticked 1 piece axels with locker
Haha. Thanks. It’s an AX15 from Novak. It also has the adapter plate to mate it to my Dana 300 . I rebuilt my T-5 and then sold it after I decided to go all in on the 350 sbc. I’ve heard great things about this 5 speed.
They sent me a straight shifter with it, ready to bend to my preference.
Been thinking I wished I had gone this route. Going from a T-4 to buying a used T-176 and rebuilding it and replacing some gears and other parts I am probably approaching the cost of a good used one. Oh well next time
I just had to order new locking hubs. I went to install the old ones today after putting a lot of effort into cleaning and refurbishing them. Got Pass side on, looks good.
Went to put the Driver side together and the spring is getting all bunched up and stretching out when I turn the internal splines in “free” mode.
Not sure if this is repairable or likely to fail, so I said F-it and for the Mile Marker 5-bolt hubs for the CJ.
