Build Thread 85 CJ7 Rebuild, Labor of Love

Build Thread 85 CJ7 Rebuild, Labor of Love
Please forgive my lack of knowledge but what is “welding the tubes” and what benefits does it give.


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Please forgive my lack of knowledge but what is “welding the tubes” and what benefits does it give.


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No worries at all, if you’re referring to my update regarding the AMC20 rear axle, the axle tubes are just pressed into the differential housing (normally). When I rebuilt mine I welded the tubes to the housing for stronger contact. It eliminates the possibility of breaking the axle under large stresses (e.g. off-roading) due to the tubes pulling away or spinning in the housing.

You can go a step further and weld a truss across the diff housing to further reinforce each side, depends on what you want to do with the Jeep.

I was rebuilding the axle, so I went ahead and did it as it gains a lot with little effort relative to all the other work.


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No worries at all, if you’re referring to my update regarding the AMC20 rear axle, the axle tubes are just pressed into the differential housing (normally). When I rebuilt mine I welded the tubes to the housing for stronger contact. It eliminates the possibility of breaking the axle under large stresses (e.g. off-roading) due to the tubes pulling away or spinning in the housing.

You can go a step further and weld a truss across the diff housing to further reinforce each side, depends on what you want to do with the Jeep.

I was rebuilding the axle, so I went ahead and did it as it gains a lot with little effort relative to all the other work.


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What kind a welder did you use. I have access to a 110 amp welder mig welder. My AMC20 is out right now and I will be rebuilding it. Seems like a no brained to weld the tubes.


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Welding the tubes to the pumpkin takes some skill as the pumpkin is cast. I believe you have to heat the cast portion before welding. The tubes are regular steel, just need to be able to get hot enough for thickness. I had a local shop do mine. Be mindful of brake line hold down location and vent tube.

44cbd53ee48dfc1804e8c88e5cd8270e.jpg


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What kind a welder did you use. I have access to a 110 amp welder mig welder. My AMC20 is out right now and I will be rebuilding it. Seems like a no brained to weld the tubes.


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I also had a local shop do mine. It cost me about $50 to bring it to the shop after everything was disassembled. They skip weld it since The tube tends to pull in the direction of the weld slightly therefore they tack one side then the opposite to counter act the pulling before going all the way around versus taking the bead all the way around from the get-go. It took the guy an afternoon.

If you can weld I’m sure you can handle it.


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Mdeluca I’ve looked over your write up on the heater box rebuild. In your experience do I need to replace my blower fan. I noticed a couple blades are dinged up after I cleaned it.

7d96963b2074f8f8384e8b5b68d8fd2a.jpg

My guess is it’s not that big of a deal. Thoughts?


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Mdeluca I’ve looked over your write up on the heater box rebuild. In your experience do I need to replace my blower fan. I noticed a couple blades are dinged up after I cleaned it.

7d96963b2074f8f8384e8b5b68d8fd2a.jpg

My guess is it’s not that big of a deal. Thoughts?


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Doesn't look that bad to me. My concern would be what was it hitting and why.
 
Doesn't look that bad to me. My concern would be what was it hitting and why.


Thanks. Yeah, my thoughts too until I opened the box. It was a mess in there. Pieces of the heater core piping were laying in the bottom which would explain why my heater never worked. And I’m pretty sure mice were living in the fan wheel.


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Awesome delivery today from Novak Conversions. I’m a little way off from installing, but this baby will be ready to go. 92822c9192c63b23556231c3151034d0.jpg


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Ok, looks seriously sweet, but what model is it? And I’m jealous as I’ll be holding my breath that mine holds together.


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Ok, looks seriously sweet, but what model is it? And I’m jealous as I’ll be holding my breath that mine holds together.


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Haha. Thanks. It’s an AX15 from Novak. It also has the adapter plate to mate it to my Dana 300 . I rebuilt my T-5 and then sold it after I decided to go all in on the 350 sbc. I’ve heard great things about this 5 speed.

They sent me a straight shifter with it, ready to bend to my preference.


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Haha. Thanks. It’s an AX15 from Novak. It also has the adapter plate to mate it to my Dana 300 . I rebuilt my T-5 and then sold it after I decided to go all in on the 350 sbc. I’ve heard great things about this 5 speed.

They sent me a straight shifter with it, ready to bend to my preference.


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Been thinking I wished I had gone this route. Going from a T-4 to buying a used T-176 and rebuilding it and replacing some gears and other parts I am probably approaching the cost of a good used one. Oh well next time
 
I almost went the same route. After rebuilding my T-5 it wasn’t too bad, but I don’t ever need to do that again.


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SWEET! My build thread is back up. Stand by for some updates coming. Lots of progress.


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Some great progress in the garage this past weekend. My front axle rebuild is complete.

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Rebuild the differential and upgraded the 4.10 R&P, and replaced all the other obvious components (U-joints, ball joints etc...)

Getting set up for the new spindles,
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Got the hubs on, pre-load set and lock washer tab bent, ready for hubs and brakes.
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New rotors, now just have to install the locking hubs and calipers. I’m so close to a rolling chassis!

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Nice! I like the look of the new bolts! I painted mine after tightening everything, kind of double questioning now.

I’m also wondering if I should’ve went with a lower ratio than 3.73. It’ll be interesting to see how they compare.


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Nice! I like the look of the new bolts! I painted mine after tightening everything, kind of double questioning now.

I’m also wondering if I should’ve went with a lower ratio than 3.73. It’ll be interesting to see how they compare.


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My reasoning for the 4.10 ratio was what I’ve looked up for the tires I want to run. It was the optimal ratio.


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I just had to order new locking hubs. I went to install the old ones today after putting a lot of effort into cleaning and refurbishing them. Got Pass side on, looks good.
6bdf6daa54d064557610d26ba2ef54c3.jpg

Went to put the Driver side together and the spring is getting all bunched up and stretching out when I turn the internal splines in “free” mode.

91c5dff35cebbd13db4c06baf45cd30c.jpg
Not sure if this is repairable or likely to fail, so I said F-it and for the Mile Marker 5-bolt hubs for the CJ.


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