Advice on 232 Motor rebuild or not.

Advice on 232 Motor rebuild or not.

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Location
whittier
Vehicle(s)
CJ5, 1976 232 6Speed
I just bought this 76' and it needs work. They started it for me but that does not mean much if you saw it. It had a flat tire so I could not drive it home. They towed it for me and when I got it home I started breaking it down. I wanted to do a frame up. When removing the radiator hose, there was nothing but gunk in the hose and going to the motor. The motor had lots of it, almost looked like mud.

I bought this Jeep from a small dealer and they bought from some guy. I have no idea where it's been and what has been done. Would you guys overhaul/rebuild this motor? I just need some advice, get me in the right direction. I have $1,000 aside for motor work.

Thank you.
 
1000 bucks probably won't be enough for a decent rebuild. You need to tear it down and inspect to make a determination.
 
It's been a while for me. How much is a motor rebuild these days if you do all the tear-down and assembly your self? Machine shop and parts. Ballpark?
 
If you don't need a bore job ,pistons , crank and the head is Ok I'm thinking less than a G.
 
Now I'm thinking I should just put it back together and take it to a shop. Is there a way to clean out the gunk the Radiator/water pump pushed in the motor?
 
Now I'm thinking I should just put it back together and take it to a shop. Is there a way to clean out the gunk the Radiator/water pump pushed in the motor?
I would flush the motor. The cooling system really isnt indicative of an engine needing a rebuild. To ascertain that, you need to check compression, pull the valve cover, look at the condition of things mechanically.

Does it run hot?

I wouldn't rebuild a motor based on the condition of the water unless there are plugged water passages. That would require a hot tank and a total tear-down.
 
On flushing the motor, where does the water hose go? On the bottom or the top of the motor? I don't want to mess with the drain plug, sounds like a pita.
 
On flushing the motor, where does the water hose go? On the bottom or the top of the motor? I don't want to mess with the drain plug, sounds like a pita.
I would remove the thermostat and housing (that's where your radiator introduces water to the engine), remove the line from the waterpump to the heater core (I would flush that seperately), and unclamp the lower hose on the driver-side.
I would flush from the top (thermostat location)
 
:chug: if it aint broke dont fix it:rolleyes: sounds like you have your hands full enough. do the compression check and leak down check if it passes keep it for now
 
Any idea how many miles are on it+?? If it was mine I would work with what I had. Clean it up and do compression, you can find a "flush kit " at any auto parts, it's just a couple of garden hose fittings you splice into the heater hose. Pull the thermostat, put the goose neck back on, start the engine and turn on the hose until the water runs clear. The AMC 232 i6 may not win you any bracket races at the drag strip but it will carry you back and forth to work and ride trails on the weekends for about 300k miles before it is used up. There are way too many opportunities to spend money on your Jeep make sure you need it before you start contributing to the local machine shop.
:D
 
Any idea how many miles are on it+?? If it was mine I would work with what I had. Clean it up and do compression, you can find a "flush kit " at any auto parts, it's just a couple of garden hose fittings you splice into the heater hose. Pull the thermostat, put the goose neck back on, start the engine and turn on the hose until the water runs clear. The AMC 232 i6 may not win you any bracket races at the drag strip but it will carry you back and forth to work and ride trails on the weekends for about 300k miles before it is used up. There are way too many opportunities to spend money on your Jeep make sure you need it before you start contributing to the local machine shop.
:D

I agree.......if the block is good and cam is good you can ring and pull the head without pulling the motor.
 
you can ring and pull the head without pulling the motor.

What does that mean sir?

The miles read 61k and it looks like it sat for about 10 years. I would hate to pull the motor. I was hoping after reading what you all have said here I might just do a gasket kit if anything.

I'm going to post a pick tonight to show you what I am working with.
 
It means you can take the heads off and replace the piston rings without removing the engine.

Sitting 10 years you could try it. As long as you have oil preasure you probably can't make it worse. I would do a full rebuild and inspection but I'm pretty anal. :D

Note: Any time you remove the main caps make sure they go back exactly in the same location and orientation. Don't move them or rotate them.
 
for the moment I would flush the radiator and check/replace hoses, new wires , plugs,cap and rotor. and see how it runs.:cool:
 

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