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Alternator, Battery, or wiring issue?

Alternator, Battery, or wiring issue?
Good news. :chug:
LG
 
SGT said:
Alright,
I finally had time to get out and work on this thing. I narrowed it down to the voltage regulator.

Basically, me not knowing much about how the alternator works, I didn't realize that the "high output" alternator that I put in it does not have an internal regulator. <snip>
Click to expand...


Congrats on getting things working again.

Is that the "custom" Stinger brand - 200 amp, 14 volt. alternator you mentioned here posting number 10 of this thread

http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f7/alternator-battery-wiring-issue-24844/#post208250

?

If so, can you post a link to the product page? Or is it one of those Michael Singer custom products?

Thanks

-Jon
 
Stinger electronics www.stingerelectronics.com I got it from a guy that was building sound systems. I do not see an area on the page for them though. If you are interested in it I would be willing to sell it, but I do believe that out needs to be wired to a pcm or a regulator.
 
SGT said:
Stinger electronics Stinger Electronics :: Welcome I got it from a guy that was building sound systems. I do not see an area on the page for them though. If you are interested in it I would be willing to sell it, but I do believe that out needs to be wired to a pcm or a regulator.
Click to expand...

Thanks, but I'll pass. I was just curious and I also figured someone else might avoid the same issue, especially if you posted a link to the product.

-Jon
 
Thread Steal Alert - I've got a parasitic drain on my bat that I think I have narrowed down to my cab power but can't seem to isolate it front there. If I ran a disconnect in the cab power - between the power from the solenoid to the fuse box - what type of amp switch would I need? Thanks and sorry for the hijack but......


Wooly
 
Unplug your radio and see what happens.
Do you have a clock or GPS installed.
If no change-Then unplug your alternator and see if it stops.
LG
 
I've pulled all fuses and power items from the fuse box with no change. My fuseable link is a pigtail type - I'm going to wire up two signals so I can isolate alternator from dash power at the solenoid.


Wooly
 
Woolyworm said:
I've pulled all fuses and power items from the fuse box with no change. My fuseable link is a pigtail type - I'm going to wire up two signals so I can isolate alternator from dash power at the solenoid.


Wooly
Click to expand...

Disco all the wir'n to the alt.
See what that does-
Also-check your starter's solenoid for drain.
LG
 
Positive connected from battery to solenoid. Meter between negative post and ground to block. No voltage on meter.

Connect dash power to solenoid. All others as above. 12v on meter.

Disconnect dash power.

Connect alt power to solenoid. All else as first test above. 12v on meter.

Disconnect alt power to solenoid.

Connect winch power to bat positive. All else as in test one above. 12v at meter. Winch is setup with remote control only at this time. Grounds to frame and directly to battery.

Now I'm really scratching my head.

How do I test solenoid?

Thanks folks!


Wooly
 
Disco the large POS(+)lead and the 2 smaller leads and let the Jeep sit for a couple of dayz-

Still think it's in your alt-:D
Disco the alt wire'n and take those readings again.
LG
 
Let my jeep sit for a couple of days! Oh the horror......I don't think I can bear it!


Wooly
 
Okay, so I switch my meter to amps. I'm getting .35 amps (had to set meter on 10a setting) with the alt connected and dash disconnected. .02a with the alt disconnected and dash connected.

Appears the alt is sucking power back from the battery.


Wooly
 
Woolyworm said:
Okay, so I switch my meter to amps. I'm getting .35 amps (had to set meter on 10a setting) with the alt connected and dash disconnected. .02a with the alt disconnected and dash connected.

Appears the alt is sucking power back from the battery.


Wooly
Click to expand...

.02a -You have a clock or radio? That ain't much.
Have your alt test'd for amps.
You might try installing a diode in the alt 'excite' wire to block the back flow.
In the mean time, keep it unhooked and chg your battery up.
LG
 
Okay. So I pulled the alternator. Tested the diodes using the following test method and I got 1 in one direction and 1265 in the other direction so it appears diodes are not my issue. http://youtu.be/xgikeXt91vM

I then went back to testing the harness. Bat Pos connected, bat negative unhooked. Put one end of the tester in the excite wire slot of the alternator plug harness and one on the negative bat post and the meter reads .5 amps.




Wooly
 
Thanks LG. I will probably try a diode but the resistor wire (excite) wire is in place since I have a gauge and not a light. My understanding is that the resistor serves the role of a diode in the case of a gauge whereas the light bulb does that in the other. For now I can run with out fuse and not have to jump it every morning!


Wooly
 
Res works both directions on flow.
A diode is a one way deal.
I had to install one when I put my MSD ign in.
You want a 1A-100v diode.
If you have the OEM type Delco alt with the internal voltage regulator. Install in the small brown wire with the color band towards the battery-
LG
 
Thanks LG. that's my next step. I pulled the alt out this morning and brought it into advance auto since they have a bench tester. The "light circuit" failed which I assume is the exciter wire. At any rate, they warranted out the alt for a new one and I've got that installed now. Took the opportunity to run s dedicated ground and remote sense wires. Tested - still have .3a drain. Removed cluster fuse - no drain. Side note - the volt gauge still works with the fuse pulled.....hmmm.

I know LG - just put the damn diode in you stubborn bastard :)


Wooly
 
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