AMC-20 WideTrac

AMC-20 WideTrac

BlueBeast

Jeeper
Posts
31
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Location
Annapolis
Vehicle(s)
1982 CJ-8
I have a AMC20 WideTrac out of an '82 CJ8 that I have single Axles installed.
It has been media blasted and painted.
Can someone please give me a ballpark figure of asking price I should start at?

Does anyone know what others have paid or would be willing to share what they paid themselves.

Much appreciated advice.
 
Sorry to say this but, around here you might get $50 for it, and thats only because you have the one piece axles.
If it had gears and a locker you might get $300.
 
I have to agree with Old Dog. With one piece axles I have seen them go for $100; a cheap easy way if you need a quick replacement providing the gears match but otherwise spend no money on a CJ AMC20. Granted they can be used with mild wheeling just fine if carful but why spend money on something that has thin axle tubes that are prone to bend and a cast differential housing that is prone to crack where the tubes are pressed in. There a a few tricks to help your CJ AMC20 live but it is still just lipstick on a pig in the long run. (FSJ AMC 20s are excluded from this statement as they are a much heavier axle.)
 
AMC20 axles always seem to get the undeserving bad rap. In it's stock form it's at it's worst, but will hold it's own unless it's being thrashed, which it wasn't intended for. The axles has 3 weak points and the one is where it gets it's bad rap from. The infamous 2 piece axles which has the hub keywayed and splined to the axle shaft. These are shallow splines and once the key shears the splines aren't much help. This major flaw in design is easily overcome by a quality set of 1 piece axles such as ones by Moser Engineering.
The second weak spot, though not near as common unless v8's come into play, is that the axle tubes are press fit into the center section and given a quick spot weld. These can break free and allow the center section to spin upwards. This can be overcome by adding some welds around that intersection. Three 1 1/2" long welds will do the trick.
The third is the thin walled axles tubes. This issue is even less common unless your jumping your Jeep or heavily hopping it to get over an obstacle. A truss welded to the tubes will overcome this issue.

With those issues being addressed, it's been said this axle is on par with a stock Dana 44 but the 20 has a stronger (larger) ring and pinion gear. So addressing these 3 issues isn't too difficult and is much cheaper than swapping out the whole axles. For the average Jeeper, replacing those 2 piece axles will get you through most anything. Sure, there are stronger axles out there, but most probably don't need them. I'll be replacing my front Dana 30 before replacing my rear modified AMC20.
 
The wide trac is a little more desireable and the 1 piece axles will probably be the selling point. Id start at $150. Lower gears will make it worth a bit more since most people dont regear themselves and it can be rather pricey. Selling the matching front usually helps for guys who want to swap from narrow tracs. With 4.10s or lower Id start at $200.
 
I have a AMC20 WideTrac out of an '82 CJ8 that I have single Axles installed.
It has been media blasted and painted.
Can someone please give me a ballpark figure of asking price I should start at?

Does anyone know what others have paid or would be willing to share what they paid themselves.

Much appreciated advice.
What kind of gearing do you have in it?
 
AMC20 axles always seem to get the undeserving bad rap. In it's stock form it's at it's worst, but will hold it's own unless it's being thrashed, which it wasn't intended for. The axles has 3 weak points and the one is where it gets it's bad rap from. The infamous 2 piece axles which has the hub keywayed and splined to the axle shaft. These are shallow splines and once the key shears the splines aren't much help. This major flaw in design is easily overcome by a quality set of 1 piece axles such as ones by Moser Engineering.
The second weak spot, though not near as common unless v8's come into play, is that the axle tubes are press fit into the center section and given a quick spot weld. These can break free and allow the center section to spin upwards. This can be overcome by adding some welds around that intersection. Three 1 1/2" long welds will do the trick.
The third is the thin walled axles tubes. This issue is even less common unless your jumping your Jeep or heavily hopping it to get over an obstacle. A truss welded to the tubes will overcome this issue.

With those issues being addressed, it's been said this axle is on par with a stock Dana 44 but the 20 has a stronger (larger) ring and pinion gear. So addressing these 3 issues isn't too difficult and is much cheaper than swapping out the whole axles. For the average Jeeper, replacing those 2 piece axles will get you through most anything. Sure, there are stronger axles out there, but most probably don't need them. I'll be replacing my front Dana 30 before replacing my rear modified AMC20.
Well said! I've done some heavy wheeling on my 20 with superior one piece axle and G2 4.10 gears. Hasnt let me down so far!
 
I think you have it priced about right.
 
No doubt the 20 can use some upgrades but they are not that extreme unless you are a buy it type, instead of "built not bought" type. I would not waste time going from a 20 to a 44 unless I was really wanting to go to a wider axle. Even then may go bigger.

I think most guys just want to say they have the bigger.....axle and a 20 is tiny compared to a 44. :D

You will be lucky to get $100 due to the axles, like mentioned ask $150.
 
Hi guys I just joined your forum and while looking thru the posts came on this one reguarding the AMC20 rear axles... I will be doing a complete build post on my project AMC20 full floater disk brake build soon but just wanted to say that the AMC20 is a very good and strong little rear axle when built up a little and a few parts changed. It is also a lot lighter , take a look at a few photos i have added and watch for the full build as soon as i can get all the info together thanks:)
 
I look forward to your thread. I don't really have any good pics and the truss on mine was not finished off here. I did one piece (not full float) and lunchbox locker, regeared 4.56 and picked up about $30 in 3/8" steel from the scrap pile of a local steel house. I ended up stitch welding the tubes, cutting out a piece for the truss over the top, and fabbing a bracket for a traction bar.

Built the bar out of DOM with a rod end/heim joint in the front and bushings at the rear, steel support in the middle. Then put together a shackle and tied it into the skid plate (probably can't see).

amc20.jpg


http://www.jeep-cj.com/gallery/files/4/0/0/2/amc20.jpg I like the way you tied the diff cover guard into the truss bar. Also the discs look great. I still have discs on my -long- list. It will be nice to see yours done on here. Looks clean.

We are off topic but maybe it will help him sell the 20 :D.
 
Hi again yes that was really my point on the AMC20,,,, dont just dismiss this rear end,,, a lot can be done to it,,,, also dont think i listed that the floater is also set up with warn hub locks just like the front so when i flat tow it behind the motor home we dont have any of the drive train turning....I will try to get that project posted soon...thanks
 
Wow..... this is an old thread that I just found on Google looking at traction bars :chug: man that full float 20 :drool::drool::drool: to bad they dont make that kit anymore
 

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