Amc 20?

Amc 20?
ken98k said:
So these axles have differences other than being two pieces?
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I'm pretty sure there's no differences. I have a friend has had to pull his axles from the tubes to replace seals and didn't have to unbolt the hubs from the shafts. I'm also pretty sure that welding doesn't reall help out that much. If your torquing it enough to break a shaft or spin the splines inside the hub the welding won't help it much. Also keep in mind one of the reasons it sucks when they brake is the tire will completely fall off. Don't screw around and swap the shafts.
 
Even though it's stock, the axle shaft is hardened. Welding the 2-piece will weaken the hell out of an already weak design :)
 
Stamp location-
 
Some of the AMC20 's in the Full Size Jeeps {Cherokee,Wagoneer Etc.} were one piece axle's but there full width.
 
Can someone give me a part number on either the moser or superior one piece axle kit? I cant seem to find it on summitracing.com.
 
Thanks Old Dog. Summit's site is kind of confusing and hard to navigate.
 
Check shipping charges before you buy, when you total it all up summit will have a lower total price alot of the times.
 
Still not sure if I'm going to one piece the AMC20 or not. I'm just checking around on pricing of all the stuff were talking about in my other thread.
 
Order good axles, such as Superior or Alloy. Weld your axle tubes in. Let it eat. If you plan on wheeling it. Replace the cheesy stamped steel cover.
 
^^^ What he said. If you do, go with one you know is chromo like Alloy USA or some of the other better brands.

Chromos are at least 35-40% stronger than 1039 or 1040 Carbon steel . That would make them stronger that stock 44's and based on the chart, about as strong as a 14 bolt. http://www.s10extremist.org/tech_articles/axle_u-joint_strength.htm
 
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13 years on my Moser axles i nmy model 20, no breakage and a very powerful chevy 350 that I am not nice to when driving it. I will always use Moser.
 
From what I have read, the Moser 20 is currently 1541h-(hardened steel) it is between carbon and chromoly. Although I would not be surprised if your older shafts actually were chromoly.

Moser seems to be a company that is always trying to find the best fit. They had a time where they mostly using 4340 and then were interested in 4140 for the rear only (similar to chromoly). 4140 is that it is a more difficult to harden, therefore it would be almost as strong but would twist (give) a little and not snap. Not sure on why they went to 1541 but would assume cost and that most people aren't in need of that strong of a material for the 20.

Of course, many things can make a difference. If only the rear is locked, that adds stress to the shafts. But even more importantly, if you have AIST (<-BAD WORD-> in seat time) that really helps. :D
 
CJ007, good post
I am not a fan of the corp 20 for hard wheeling, but it is not a inner axle thing, that can be cured with good steel. What bothers me is the inner pumpkin to tube connection.
I have seen a ton of corp 20s out live jeeps with a good hard steel inner axle replacement. One thing you have to remember, it is not the rough offroad that makes a inner axle fail, it is the day to day use with big tires that twist the axle, with a good hard steel inner, the twist is greatly reduced and when the spike hits, the inner axle is still strong. I do like Chrome Moly, use it in my stuff. So you can see with a good steel, that inners will out live the Jeep, it is that crazy way they did the inner joints that needs to be addressed.
Besides that, the Corp 20 is a great axle.
 
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