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Build Thread AMC 401 Jeep CJ7 Drag Build with Tech Write-ups and lots of Pics

Build Thread AMC 401 Jeep CJ7 Drag Build with Tech Write-ups and lots of Pics
So we did a little messing around with E brake ideas last weekend. Because of the way the Isuzu E brake cables are it lined up perfect for an E brake handle. Not sure if this will be our final design or not. I think the cables look funny, but with the flares on it might hide them.

Idk what do you guys think.

So we did a little messing around with E brake ideas last weekend. Because of the way the Isuzu E brake cables are it lined up perfect for an E brake handle. Not sure if this will be our final design or not. I think the cables look funny, but with the flares on it might hide them.

Idk what do you guys think.

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So I worked on the throttle cable today. We tried a mr gasket throttle cable and it was complete junk so we decided we wanted to stay with oem. We decided with the fiberglass body we would cut the throttle cable section out of the firewall on the oem steel tub and fiberglass it on. I will have more pictures of that soon.

Not happy with the length of the cable. I ordered a cable that was just an inch shorter as this was one I had laying around.
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I am also going to modify the cable bracket becasue my carb spacer.
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Poor picture of the steel throttle cable hole. Its bolted on now but will be fiberglassed in when we do our body work
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So I had to modify the throttle cable bracket to make the mounting point a little higher due to the carb spacer. I have a new throttle cable on the way.
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Also worked on the E brake as well. I had to adapt the Isuzu E brake cable to the Subaru E brake that I had laying around.


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Throttle cable was next on things to do after body install. We had the original cable but for some reason it was about an inch too short. So I ordered up a new one off Ebay (seller 4wheel.drive.hardware) for $16.99 This measured longer and was actually for our application. Excellent quality, fast sevice and great price. Now having a fiberglass body poses some problems when it comes to fastening hardware that normally got fastened to sheet metal. Fiberglass is thicker, so the firewall end of the cable would not snap into place. There is a modification plate made with a square hole for this purpose https://www.google.com/search?q=jeep+fiberglass+body+thottle+cable&oq=jeep+fiberglass+body+
thottle+cable&aqs=chrome..69i57.15162j0j7&sourceid=chrome&espv=
210&es_sm=122&ie=UTF-8#q=jeep+fiberglass+body+throttle+cable&tbm=shop&spd=0

I,m thinking, why can't you just cut out the square hole in the metal firewall that we kept? The curvature of the fiberglass body seemed to match the metal one pretty close. So I cut out the hole in no particular shape figuring I could trim it later. If layed against the inside of the firewall the curve matched perfectly. Shell Valley did a good job here. Shell Valley Classic Wheels, Inc.
_id=137/home_id=-1/mode=cat/cat137.htm

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This mod might not work for other fiberglass bodies, but worth cheking into before making unnecessary puchases. The square hole was then traced and drilled out to a diameter matching the diameter behind the square on the cable. I tapped 4 holes for 10 - 32 thread and fastened the plate with stainless button head allen screws from the outside. Then pushed the cable into place through the round hole into the thinner square hole. The other end was also without problems due to alignment with the carb linkage. It appeared too low and was pulling down on the linkage and I couldn't figure out why until Jeffrey reminded me that we had used a 1" carb spacer. Duh! That meant the throttle cable bracket had to be moved up the same amount. This could have been accomplished by putting a spacer between the intake and bracket, but wasn't pleased with how it would look. I optioned to cut and lengthen the bracket for a more factory look. The bracket was cut and a piece with matching strengthening rib was fabricated and welded into place, some grinding, filler and paint, along with some stainless mounting bolts and the problem was solved. Now the cable pulled the linkage straight.

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Needing a battery tray, but not wanting to spend the money, Jeffrey opted to see what was laying around my vast inventory of "hey I can use this some day" stash. As it turned out I had saved 3 of these trays from a machine shop I worked at, oh probably 27 years ago. These were a part we made and got scrapped for whatever reason. One I mounted on my garage wall to hold my battery charger, so had 2 extras. Turned out to be the exact size of the original rusted out tray. So he put his fabrication skills to work and came up with this version.

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The tray is stainless steel so should hold up for a while. Angled supports were welded to the sides then bolted through the firewall with a support plate on the inside that can be threaded into. A bottom support was fabricated from, you guessed it, "hey I can use this some day" inventory. In this case, a stainless tube from a ladder rung of a long torn down play gym that I had built when the boys were young. The ends were flattened, drilled and bent to the proper angle.

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The upper end fastens to the underside of the plate and the bottom end rests, and is bolted on top of the floor to firewall seam lip, making for a very solid and stable platform for the battery. A hold down will be made upon deciding on what battery will be used. Most likely a G.M. style freedom battery with side posts. The starter solenoid will be mounted underneath the tray out of sight, making for tidy wiring.
 
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Had to find something else that I could do that was a one man project, so I tackled the cowl to grille support rods. The originals were bent and rusted so I scrounged up some 3/8" square stainless from the scrap barrel at work. Turned the end and threaded them. Jeffrey had previously made up brackets from aluminum angle and polished them that looked pretty cool. Since the battery tray was already mounted I had to make sure there was enough vertical clearance for the battery to the underside of the support rod. Mounting the brackets with the leg down and the rod end on top gave the most clearance. A 3/8 rod end and jam nut was screwed onto the one end, mounted to the bracket then measured for length at the grille end. Cut that to length, turned the end and threaded it. Using a jam nut and acorn nut for visual effect was utilized on that end. Now since he polished the brackets, I'll wait till he gets home to polish the stainless rod. Hey, gotta let something for him to do.

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In the Jan. 24th. post I described how the fiberglass body was narrower where the windshield mounts and how we put shims behind the hinges to take up the space. After some thinking about that, it was determined that it would be a rust trap between the shims and hinges. Plus if the decision was made to go with stainless hinges it would not work so well. The alternative was to build out the body with fiberglass. This was done by roughing the gel coat in the area of the hinge and applying a layer of resin. After that hardened (and it does get hard) sanding and filing it down to a satisfactory straightness would be labor intensive.

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So being a machinist, my mind gravitated towards milling it. Well since I can't mount the body into a milling machine. I decided to bring the milling machine to the body in the form of a hand held router. A piece of plywood was cut with an access hole a bit bigger than the area to be cut, then clamped to the body. A straight edge was then fastened to the plywood as a guide to slide the router against. The hinges were fastened to the windshield and a measurement was taken between the two sides then transferred to the cowl. 1/16" had to come off each side. The router was set to that depth plus the thickness of the plywood, and strapping on a mask the cut was made.

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Surprisingly the material came off in chips rather than a more harmful dust. The whole rig was transferred to the other side and repeated. We ended up with perfectly flat mounting surfaces the correct width for the hinges. The windshield frame was test fitted with no side movement. Plus it saved ware and tear on this aging body.

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First off I would like to thank all the individuals that posted tech articles on using the Ford Contour dual electric fan on the jeep-cj forum http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/ and the jeep forum Jeep Forum - Jeep Enthusiast Network Both have been invaluable in the build of this CJ7 and would have been a struggle otherwise. I am including lots of pics, so any questions are welcome. The radiator is an all aluminum Champion 3 row core, model CC583B. This thing is a work of art, quality all the way. Purchased through Ebay store. replacement radiator, aluminum radiator items in Radiator Galaxy store on eBay! Fast shipping and great packaging. This fits with no modification at all. We added elbows for the Transmission cooler lines for a direct route to the hard lines. 1/8 x 3/4 aluminum strips were added between the radiator mounting flange and the grille to give some clearance to the upper tank so it would not rub on the grille. Just a precautionary measure. These strips would later become advantageous in securing the mounting blocks for the electric fan. OK the fan. 1998 Ford Contour 4 cylinder dual electric with shroud. Cost us $20.00 at a local u-pull.
Welcome to Greble U-Pull-It I can not begin to describe how perfect this fits the radiator. Again, thank you forums. Fits in between the tanks and the mounting flanges like it was engineered for it. We trimmed some relief for the welds on the sides where the flange is stitched welded to the core. Once that was seated, measurements were taken to utilize the factory Ford mounting tabs. This is a slightly different approach from what we have seen, some fastening through the core, but this way was chosen for ease of install and future replacement. A word on replacement of junkyard parts, especially with newer cars. It is always good to document the VIN off the car the part was taken. Alot of times you inquire about a part at the parts store or dealer and they want the VIN due to mid year changes. This way you have a better chance of getting the correct part. Jeffrey milled mounts from aluminum blocks then the wedge for the lower mounts cut in on a bandsaw. I know everybody doesn't have access to a mill, but there is no reason these could not have been fabricated with just a saw. 1/4 - 20 threads were tapped so they could be mounted to the radiator flange through the previous mentioned 1/8 x 3/4 aluminum strips that were countersunk for 1/4 - 20 flat head stainless screws. The upper blocks have a 5/16 stainless stud installed in them. Once these blocks are mounted to the flange the radiator can then be mounted to the grille.

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The fan assembly can then be mounted simply by lowering the bottom tabs into the the lower wedges then slide the upper mounts into position over the studs and secured with stainless washers and nuts. We will later switch to a stainless nylon lock nut to prevent having to tighten too excessively on the plastic tabs and then won't have to worry about them working loose. There is about 1/2" clearance between the acorn nuts on the water pump pulley (we could have more if using regular nuts). Plus the dual fan gives more clearance than a single fan would have. On the Transmission cooler lines, we chose to go with barbed nipples and plain hose rather than have special hoses with crimped fittings. These always seem to leak and this way it is just a simple matter of cutting a length of hose and clamping it. Jeffrey has some decisions to make on fan controllers, there are plenty of options out there.

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Automatic Column Shift to Standard Floor Shift.

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Anybody run into a problem in locating a GM tilt column, floor shift and headlight dimmer on the floor. Somebody is grabbing them out of the junkyards. If you find anything with a clutch pedal the column is gone. We had a shift tilt column from a J10 that we were using for mockup but were keeping our eye open for a floor shift column. Since no luck we had heard of people cutting off the shifter boss and filling it in with various materials. We were afraid of it eventually cracking out. Did some searching on different forums and through an Oldsmobile forum they made mention of Speedway Motors 910-32600 from Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop offering a column shift cover part #910-32600 specifically for this purpose to hide the cut off shifter boss. Cost $31.02 to my door. It's really made for a non tilt column but will work for a tilt as well according to their very helpful staff. Fits great. OK that takes care of the shifter bowl. Since the ignition switch cover also has the shift quadrant assembly mounted to the cover, via an "L" shaped hole, that also had to be filled in. Couldn't find any after market mod for that. The cover is made from cast aluminum, so a piece of sheet aluminum was cut to shape, formed to the same radius as the cover, then pressed into place.

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I originally tried to spot

weld with an aluminum rod but the cast was not co-operating. So I backed off before I ruined it and broke out the JB Weld. Smeared that on the inside and outside then ground it smooth. The inside can be left heavy for strength without any worry of it interfering with the function of the column. A column shift steering column has a shift tube that runs the whole length right down to the bottom bearing. This must be retained to hold the bottom bearing to support the lower shaft. Just cut off the linkage lever that connects to the shift linkage that goes to the Transmission . After assembly, and when the shift tube is in the park position, it can be secured to the outer

column jacket tube by drilling and tapping for a 10 -32 button head screw. Speaking of assembly, I won't go into depth, that's what assembly manuals are for, but one word of caution. And this was the only snag I ran into due to lack of experience. There is a "lock sector tension spring" (craziest thing you ever wanted to look at) fastened to a plastic gear at the opposite end of the ignition switch. Well wouldn't you know I broke it. Well I surely didn't have one of those in my "might use it some day box" so internet to the rescue. Led me to Steering Column Services.
[url=http://www.steeringcolumnservices.com/jeep/spring01-locking-pin-spring.php]Spring01 Locking Pin Spring | Steering Column Services[/url] Part # spring01 cost $4.85

OK so I order 2 of them. Well somehow 2nd day air got checked (by me, not them) and 2 springs cost me $78.18 flown to my door in 2 days from Utah. I did find the mistake the next day after seeing 5 emails and 1 phone message from them asking if I wanted to indeed ship it this method, but it was already shipped. I have to give them credit for trying. Lesson learned? don't be in a hurry, it will cost you. We ordered up a new turn signal switch from Advanced Auto part #S3233 for around $25. Ours was cracked. Interesting thing non of these switches come with the gray wire for the shift quadrant bulb. Not that we would be using it since we eliminated

that part but if you needed it for your application it would be necessary to remove the connector from your old switch and install it in the new one. We did, because we can use this wire to run to the floor shift quadrant display. The whole conversion should have cost us under $60.00 compared to $200.00 or more for a rebuild. I say should have if it wouldn't have been for my screw ups.

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Custom CJ tailgate with YJ top

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Topic today? Another variation of a CJ tailgate with a YJ hard top. A recent trip to the Spring Carlisle auto flee market netted a latch from a vendor that we figured might work for the CJ tailgate that we planned on using with the YJ hard top. There have been several right ups on this conversion, all pretty ingenious in their own way, but for our street only version of this build, they just didn't meet our needs. Those being, lockable, open from the outside without it looking like a utility box and without opening the lift gate, water tight (as much as a stock CJ could be) no protruding latches and be able to sit on it. The fact that a CJ gate opens from the inside versus a YJ from the outside was the problem. A YJ lift gate opens only after the bottom gate is opened, so if you can't get to the inside to open the bottom gate, well I'm sure you get the picture. This is a problem we knew we would face, but was put on the back burner until hopefully a solution fell in our laps. So $5.00 for the latch, we took a chance. I spent more for a Big Smokey sausage sandwich an hour earlier. Once home we analyzed the latch, Jeffrey commented that it looked familiar. Turns out it is the same latch that Poison Spyder TrailGate | Drop-Down Replacement TailGate | Jeep LJ TJ YJ Exterior Upgrades | Poison Spyder Customs uses on their tailgates. The latch is made by Southco 62-42-351-3 - Southco and if you can't find what you need from this company you better give up. The latch we used for mock up is not lockable, but a lockable version will be purchased from Southco. Poison Spyder makes a nice quality gate, but we didn't like the exposed latches on the inside. We like a tailgate to sit on, and we were thinking more along the line of hidden, as in two rods hidden inside the gate exiting out both sides into the body.

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Did some preliminary measuring and found the latch was thicker than the gate was thick. So a decorative aluminum housing was milled to rectify this. This put the latch out further, and by cutting off some of the extra long shaft it would clear. Started by downloading specs from Southco and cut a hole in the face of a trashed tailgate we kept just for this purpose. Then an access hole was cut on the inside to facilitate hooking up the rods. Later a sheet metal cover will be fabricated to cover the inside hole and will eventually be covered by carpet. An actuating bar was made with a double D hole to slide over the latch shaft and bent to clear the clamp screw that holds the latch in place. Two holes are drilled and tapped 6-32 to fasten the rods. Two bushings were cut from 3/16 brake line tubing for the 6-32 screws to pass through and tighten down without pinching and binding the flattened ends of the rods. The rods are 5/16 diameter with one end flattened and drilled 3/16 for the bushings. Holes were then drilled at each end of the gate for the rods to pass through. A slight curve was bent on the flattened end of the each rod to produce a longer movement for body engagement. This also limits the rods from dropping out the inside of the holes. After the gate is mounted to the body for it's final alignment, a dab of grease will be applied to each rod end, then actuated out against the body for accurate hole alignment to be drilled. Factory weatherstripping can be utilized for a rattle free tight seal. So there you have it, another version of a CJ gate on a YJ and you can sit on it and crack open your favorite brew.

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Been quite a few updates since I last posted to this thread. So here goes.

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We decided a shakedown run was in the cards for a couple of reasons. 1 To make sure all the engineering we have done so far worked and was safe. 2 Jeffrey was heading towards a date of July 4th. weekend because that was the weekend that we bought it in 2004. Brakes were bled using silicone fluid, found a couple of leaks and fixed them. Coolant was added, a temporary gas line was routed into the front passenger compartment to a gas can, (didn't want to put gas in the tank and turn stale) and a simplified wiring harness was fabbed up. All suspension hardware was checked and made sure the e-brake worked. Dump tubes were welded up and bolted to the open headers. Oh and a fire extinguisher in the console. Hey, you never know. Fired right up since we didn't touch any of the settings from the previous dyno session. Topped off the tranny and power steering pump and it began to move, which was a good sign since the tranny was sitting for a few years. (We had it assembled wet for that reason) It was discovered that the alternator was not charging the battery and that was finally diagnosed by Jeffreys' grandfather to a bad connection to the indicator light. (He is 85 but still has it) Now that the battery was being charged we went for a few runs on the road and also one donut exercise in the grass, you know, to make sure the quadra trac was working. So far the ride is comfortable, steering is a dream with one finger, braking? well it stops but wont do any panic stops like dragging the tires, so some adjustments will be needed there, and after it sits, the aluminum tranny pan leaks. Oh I forgot to mention, it hauls ***.

Cant figure out why they wont embed in the post but here are some videos

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8n5DC_zMnIo
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Started to do some interior and dash work.


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Got to work on the console gauges before the holidays. We originally had anticipated one row of three gauges across the top, but since we wanted to angle them towards the driver and flush mount them, there just wasn't enough width with the sides of the console to accomplish that. So we had to triangulate the arrangement, with one at the top and two in a row below the top one. An angle of 26 degrees from the center of the console to the drivers eyes was deemed necessary for comfortable reading, that was done
simply by taking a string from the drivers eyes down to the center of the console where the gauges would be mounted, then reading a protractor off the face. Since the console was already angled up we only had one angle to deal with. For the speedo and tac which will be mounted to the vertical dash, two angles will have to be dealt with. Ironically the vertical angle is the same at 26 degrees as the horizontal angle is. 2 5/8" o.d. exhaust tubing was needed to clear the gauge bezels, but since that size is not available we went with 2 1/2" o.d. We then went to a local shop https://plus.google.com/102152294201127156040/about?gl=us&hl=en (Manbeck Alignment) that bends exhaust and had them run their expander through the ends of the tubing making the inside 2 1/2" thus making the outside the 2 5/8" that was needed. I clamped the tubing to a long v block and using the radial arm saw with a metal cutting blade set on 26 degrees, was able to get the job done. One end cut straight the other on 26 degrees. A washer was cut from sheet metal using two different sizes of hole saws, one for the o.d. the other for the i.d. so the gauge could slide into. Then Jeffrey tack welded the washer to the straight end and the angled end to the console face plate with a mig welder borrowed from a co-worker. Hey, what are friends for? We then filled the voids with J.B.Weld front and back then body worked the front with primer and body filler. We still continue to do some shake down runs for "educational purposes" You know to see if anything is malfunctioning. A Transmission cooler line leak was discovered, so that will have to be addressed. Better now than when its finished


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And we started working on the custom dash this past weekend. We plan to use the YJ defroster setup with a custom defroster duct behind the dash so we dont rust out the new windshield

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