Another Help I'm buying a CJ Thread!!

[Mechedjun]

Hey guys, my name is Dave. New to the world of CJs but certainly not new to the world of Jeeps. I gave up a JK some time ago and decided to go after a CJ like I always wanted. After searching a lot places I think I found a possible keeper but I have no idea how to price out a CJ. A lot of threads on this site helped me to understand what to look for but I still don't feel like I know enough. Just wanted to get an opinion on my purchase, whether or not its a good deal. About to pull the trigger! Please Help!

The vehicle is a 83 CJ7 with a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l , T-5 , AMC20 rear, Dana 30 front, and Dana 300 transfer. PO did some nice mods.

Mods:
Leaf/Shackle 4.5 lift
33" Mickeys w/ matching spare
2 KC lights
AMC20 axle tubes welded
One Piece axles
lockers
4.10 gear

These are the mods that I would have personally done anyway so I'm really liking the rig. I have not personally seen the CJ (will be doing that soon), but according to PO:

Original Paint that looks real good in photograph (Good)
No rust on body/tub or frame (Good)
Original frame and body/tub (Good)
No restoration done ever so no liners etc. (Good? Bad? I don't know)
AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l leaks 1 quart every 2~3 weeks when DDed (Bad)
Fuel Gauge not working (Bad)
Currently being DDed through salt and grime (Bad)

The photographs shows a clean CJ. Apparently the jeep sat in a garage for over 10 years and accumulated total of 90000 original miles (hence the no rust despite no restoration or body/tub/frame sealing of any kind). I have not seen the condition of the body and frame in person so I have no idea what "No Rust" really means. I also do not know the condition of the steering box. However, PO assured me that the above details are the only things that are "Bad". No other leaks or issues. Assuming that the body/tub and frame are really rust free (or minor surface rust), all of the gauges and electrics work except the fuel gauge, and engine leaking oil is the only drivetrain issue, is 6500 a good price for this rig? Thanks.

Also, I plan to DD this thing if feasible but not at the cost of losing the car over rust. Assuming that the car really is in its original condition (paint, body/tub, frame, no interior liner, no liner on undercarriage, etc.) how bad is it to drive it in East Coast winter (We get a healthy spray of salt every year)? Thanks again.

-Dave

 

[PaRenegade]

Welcome aboard. First off, a Jeep and a CJ are one and the same. A JK is a Wrangler.... way different model. The early ones were similar to Jeeps but that was the YJ version of the Wrangler.
Secondly, it's very hard to price a Jeep without crawling around on it, but even harder without pictures. And the value of even the same year Jeep can vary by thousands, and also vary by region of the US. So it's hard for anyone here to give you more than a general guess, just keep that in mind.
In my experience $6500 is kind of on the border. Based on your description and your words, it sounds like it may be a fair price. But reality could drop it down to the $4-5k range. The oil leak is common and probably either a rear main or valve cover leak, fixable for maybe $60-75 and some time. Rust is the BIG variable. When you look at it in person check the frame. Not just visually but tap it with something hard to find any thin spots hidden with paint. Use a thin rag and a magnet on the body to locate any filler. Most guys are honest but some are not. And he may not even know the history from the prior owner either, so tread with caution.
All the mods sound like decent ones (as long as the lift was done right) and will save you some grief. Do you have any friends with a Jeep that would be familiar with it's driving querks and tendencies? You may want him to tag along for a more informed opinion.
If you get any pictures or take any while looking at it please share, then we can give you better opinions. Good luck.

 

[Torxhead]

You bring up some good points Pa, oil leaks, rust, and not buying a virgin CJ are major factors. I admit paying too much for my rig, but that was over 25 years ago and I think I have made up for it.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

WELCOME!
Engine oil leak-Ck the back of the valve cover.
Run 20W-50 Hi mileage engine oil. I use Castrol.
Flush and clean with pressure washer when you get it.
Change all fluids ASAP. If it has a T-4 /T-5 tranny, do NOT use ATF. Get 75W-90 syn Transmission oil.
LG

 

[Neuner]

Do you have any friends with a Jeep that would be familiar with it's driving querks and tendencies? You may want him to tag along for a more informed opinion.

If this is possible, I think this is the best advice ever especially if you have a friend, co-worker or anyone you know that has owned a CJ.

Before purchasing mine, I went through all of the same questions and studied as much as I could so I knew what to look for. It helped a lot, but wow, do I now know so much more, with even more yet to learn, and thankful that I got lucky.

I test drove quite a few but the one I purchased had the best steering, ride, brakes, etc out of the group. It was still terrible and nerve racking compared to other vehicles I had driven. I was nervous driving it and there was no way I'd take it over 40. When I got it home and after deflating the 35psi+ 33" tires, tweaking the carb, timing, drum brakes, replacing vacuum lines, etc. it had a great ride for a CJ. I now DD it to work on the highway almost every day and enjoy it immensely. I really wish I had a friend along with me who was familiar with these on the final one I chose to verify I was making a good decision.

 

[Hedgehog]

A couple things to keep in mind. The jeep sat for 10 years, unless done properly that's never good for a vehicle. Also, even thought the jeep sat, it was on the road for 30+ years before that. A concrete floor draws moisture, make sure to look and look hard at the under side of the body and hammer the heck out of the frame to make sure it's solid, pay attention to the low spots in the frame, that is where sand and its friend SALT will gather which makes for RUST RUST RUST. $6500 seems like a lot of money for a rust country jeep.

 

[mechedjun1]

Hey guys, this is Dave again (Mechedjun). Something weird is happening with my account. I made the original (Mechedjun) account yesterday and was able to start this thread. When I tried to log in today it kept saying that my password is incorrect and won't let me log in. When I try and have the website send my password to my email, nothing arrives. FYI no email arrived when I registered in the first place. When I try to re-register as Mechedjun, the website says the user name and email is already taken. This means that I didn't misspell my user name, password, or email address during registeration. For some reason it recognizes the user name and email I registered with but changed the password to something different than what I wrote in my registration and never told me what is. I made a new email just so I can make this new account so I can reply to the good people that took time to respond to my thread. The new account (mechedjun1) also did not send me any confirmation email. I tried to changed my password while I'm still logged in but it says the password is incorrect. So there is a good chance once I log out I can't log back in. If admin sees this please look into it. I need to password to account Mechedjun sent to its email mechedjun@gmail.com please. Apparently its not the one that I wrote down during the registration. Also, I checked junk, note, spam folder in my email account so it's not a case where I received the email but got lost. The website just won't send any emails to my email.

 

[mechedjun1]

Back to point. I found some photographs of the prospect. Photograph shows a clean body and possibly clean frame but definitely no interior liners. PO is including hard top and hard doors. So...6500 a deal?

-Dave

 

[mechedjun1]

Welcome aboard. First off, a Jeep and a CJ are one and the same. A JK is a Wrangler.... way different model. The early ones were similar to Jeeps but that was the YJ version of the Wrangler.
Secondly, it's very hard to price a Jeep without crawling around on it, but even harder without pictures. And the value of even the same year Jeep can vary by thousands, and also vary by region of the US. So it's hard for anyone here to give you more than a general guess, just keep that in mind.
In my experience $6500 is kind of on the border. Based on your description and your words, it sounds like it may be a fair price. But reality could drop it down to the $4-5k range. The oil leak is common and probably either a rear main or valve cover leak, fixable for maybe $60-75 and some time. Rust is the BIG variable. When you look at it in person check the frame. Not just visually but tap it with something hard to find any thin spots hidden with paint. Use a thin rag and a magnet on the body to locate any filler. Most guys are honest but some are not. And he may not even know the history from the prior owner either, so tread with caution.
All the mods sound like decent ones (as long as the lift was done right) and will save you some grief. Do you have any friends with a Jeep that would be familiar with it's driving querks and tendencies? You may want him to tag along for a more informed opinion.
If you get any pictures or take any while looking at it please share, then we can give you better opinions. Good luck.

I have high hopes about the rust as I don't see any diamond plates I will definitely check for bondo.

 

[mechedjun1]

WELCOME!
Engine oil leak-Ck the back of the valve cover.
Run 20W-50 Hi mileage engine oil. I use Castrol.
Flush and clean with pressure washer when you get it.
Change all fluids ASAP. If it has a T-4 /T-5 tranny, do NOT use ATF. Get 75W-90 syn Transmission oil.
LG

I've always swore by Amsoil. Will be flushin everything, hopefully this weekend if I pull the trigger this week.

 

[mechedjun1]

If this is possible, I think this is the best advice ever especially if you have a friend, co-worker or anyone you know that has owned a CJ.

Before purchasing mine, I went through all of the same questions and studied as much as I could so I knew what to look for. It helped a lot, but wow, do I now know so much more, with even more yet to learn, and thankful that I got lucky.

I test drove quite a few but the one I purchased had the best steering, ride, brakes, etc out of the group. It was still terrible and nerve racking compared to other vehicles I had driven. I was nervous driving it and there was no way I'd take it over 40. When I got it home and after deflating the 35psi+ 33" tires, tweaking the carb, timing, drum brakes, replacing vacuum lines, etc. it had a great ride for a CJ. I now DD it to work on the highway almost every day and enjoy it immensely. I really wish I had a friend along with me who was familiar with these on the final one I chose to verify I was making a good decision.

I do have friends that are more knowledgeable about offroading (and how to outfit a rig) than I am. However, most of them are Ford (Bronco mostly), GM, and Yota guys. Oddly no Jeep guys. I'm the only one that ever owned anything from the brand.

-Dave

 

[mechedjun1]

A couple things to keep in mind. The jeep sat for 10 years, unless done properly that's never good for a vehicle. Also, even thought the jeep sat, it was on the road for 30+ years before that. A concrete floor draws moisture, make sure to look and look hard at the under side of the body and hammer the heck out of the frame to make sure it's solid, pay attention to the low spots in the frame, that is where sand and its friend SALT will gather which makes for RUST RUST RUST. $6500 seems like a lot of money for a rust country jeep.

You really bring up a good point. It addresses the same concern that I had when I first heard the words "original" and "no rust" without the word "restoration". This is a 32 year old vehicle. Even if PO owned it for little over 10 years, the vehicle operated for nearly 20 years prior. How is it possible that the frame and body are "original" and have "no rust"? I'll definitely be checking that frame and body closely when I see it in person. Also PO couldn't tell me too much about the condition of the seals, brakes, lines, etc. I have no idea if they were ever repaired, replaced, resealed, etc. Only benefit of the doubt I have is that the vehicle is currently registered (and NOT as a Historic or Antique ). So it must have passed inspection when the PO put it on the road about a year ago. Or...paid someone off for a all-clear inspection sticker...

I feel like 6500 is a decent price if all criteria above fits. opinions?

 

[Hedgehog]

Nice looking jeep, if hat is original paint it's in very good shape.

 

[Neuner]

Just going by the pics I think it looks good. Even though your friends aren't Jeep guys, still take them along. If they know what they are doing with their vehicles, they should be a benefit.

 

[PaRenegade]

From here it's looks like a nice rig. Nothing pops out at me. Engine looks unmolested. New tires, great tire but sadly discontinued. I would say from my perspective behind the screen it's probably worth it. Take that with a grain of salt.

 

[Petescj]

Looks solid from here. Two things you may want for a daily driver, power brakes and power steering. A rust free body and frame make it worth it to me but I wouldn't drive it in the Winter around here

 

[HackFabrication]

Looks good. And I like the KC lights.....

 

[Lumpy Grits]

First off-I would stay with the same name brand of oil that's in it now.
Each outfit has it's own chemical package they use and switching makers can cause oil leakage issues.
As to a rust free Jeep CJ. Mine is, and I bought it new 30 years ago.
If you have a friend that's a cop. As him to run the plate or VIN to see if it's registered to the person selling it.
Get the VIN # and you can decode it(factory build)to see what has been changed over the years.
Good luck,
LG