axle choices

axle choices
reptile610

reptile610

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Location
st. clair shores, MI
Vehicle(s)
1982 CJ7: 151cu iron duke/ sr-4 trans/ dana 300/ dana 30 front amc 20 rear 3.73 gears.
as of right now i have the iron duke but would like to upgrade to an amc v8 (AMC 304 ,360,401) not sure which one yet. want to upgrade my axles for everyday trail riding, nothing crazy but something that can hold up to a good beating. what axles should i run? was thinking 44's but from where? im told waggy 44's are good to mount up but what would i have to modify on them to install them? how much will they stick out and should i modify them? so many questions lol any help is appreciated.
 
Waggy axles are a good choice, but they are wide...really wide. If you can live with the full size width, you will only need to relocate spring perches and possibly outboard the front..cant remember if you need to if left full width. Cut down you would need to. Someone else can chime in here.

What are your plans beside a V8? What tire size? Tranny, xfercase?

The Dana 30 /corp20 will hold up pretty well below 36" tires with some finess. Care needs to be taken with the Dana 30 for a variety of reasons and under a variety of circumstances. Circumstances include power output, locked or unlocked, caution while the wheel is turned. The U-joints are typically the weak point on this axle and they dont respond well to power when the wheels are turned (ask me how I know)

Edit: Scout axles are a popular swap as there is very little to do to them to make them work on a CJ and the width is only 2 inches or so wider... I've heard of people swapping in toyota axles.

The rear 20 is good to go with a 1-piece axle conversion and some welding where the tubes enter the center section to keep from spinning.

I currently run 430 horsepower through my 20/30 combo, locked, and turning 36's. I've broken the front (ujoints) twice doing some rock crawling I shouldnt have been doing :D ...other then that, it has held up alright. Just have to know it's limitations.

I dont worry about the rear 20....It's essentially as strong as a Dana 44 as long as you dont catch air with it (you'll bend a tube, guaranteed).
 
reptile610 said:
the idea is an amc v8, idk Transmission was thinking T-176 , Dana 300 Transfer Case , not sure on the tires but probably just 35's. i do some rock crawling but mostly just trail riding.
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I know a lot of guys running that combo with the Dana 30 /20 and do ok...the key is to realize the limitations of the axles. But that's the challenge of rockcrawling. If everyone had 2½ ton top loaders or D70's, it would take all the fun out of it :D
 
CJim7 said:
I know a lot of guys running that combo with the Dana 30 /20 and do ok...the key is to realize the limitations of the axles. But that's the challenge of rockcrawling. If everyone had 2½ ton top loaders or D70's, it would take all the fun out of it :D
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very true. somebody welded my rear end which i don't want. also my front for some reason has drum brakes. didn't know if i should just upgrade the hell out of it (disc brakes, chromoly shafts, locker) or just say the hell with it and do that to a Dana 44
 
I still run my 30 and 20 with 35's. The 30 has aftermarket axles with the bigger u-joint and the 20 has the one piece axles.
I have a 350 in mine and do mostly rocks and ledges (falls). They have lived for 6 years BUT I have an auto and live by the "more finesse, less throttle" rule. I'm not afraid to use the skinny peddle when I have to though.
The waggie 44's will be 4-5 inches wider than your wide traks are.
If I were to do it again and have to buy lockers, gears, and alloy axles I'd probally just do the 44's and feel a little safer.
 
Save your self a ton of bucks and upgrade the inner shafts of the d/30 c/20 you have and all will be fine. They are good axles.
 
My understanding is the Dana 44 is slightly more heavy and the D60 is significantly more heavy than both Dana 30 or AMC20 . This leads me to think, "I need stronger. Now it's more heavy so I need more power. Now I have more power so I need stronger, wash, rinse, repeat, etc, etc, etc..."

I hope I don't cross any lines by mentioning this but the Suzuki Samurai is pretty badarse somewhat because they are light weight.
 
You can bolt a Chevy v-8 to the bell housing you have now, the iron duke is a Chevy engine, and shares the same bell housing as the v-8's. You would only be able to run a 10" clutch from a Camaro though. Just a thought.

Also you can run a 9" rear from the early Ford shoe-box Bronco's (66-77) They will bolt right into a CJ. The Ford 9" has VERY STRONG aftermarket support for axles, lockers, 3rd members etc. They are plenty strong as well as light weight. Then do the Waggy front 44.
 
How strong do you need

the Dana 30 /C20 combo made the CJ7 a legend

and there are hundreds of thousands of them running trails all the time with those axles

is it a matter of just wanting to spend money or is there a need? As long as it is Just Wanting To Run Trails, a chrome Moly upgrade and single peice axles in the C20 and you are bullet proof.

I mean spend all the money you want to, but it is your wallet, not mine.
I have wheeled for decades with D27 and tapered Dana 44 axles which everyone tells me are :dung:. but they still go everywhere the big axles go and I do not seem to break anything.
 
at the very least i have a welded rear end which i do not want. and the front Dana 30 has drums. just like all the other forums i see people arguing about whether to keep the 20 or not. i guess i'll just drive it how it is and see what breaks first. if that weld breaks though all i need is a new ring and pinion right? (never done axle work before)
 
No, you would need a new carrier assembly. It is what the ring gear is bolted to, it houses the spider gears, which are what the PO welded together. That "mod" is what's known as the "lincoln locker".
 
3QuarterTon CJ said:
No, you would need a new carrier assembly. It is what the ring gear is bolted to, it houses the spider gears, which are what the PO welded together. That "mod" is what's known as the "lincoln locker".
Click to expand...

easier/ cheaper to just get another axle?
 
I would find a Dana 30 front end with 4:10 gears from a 4 cyl.
and then get a Scout Dana 44 rear end or Ford 9"
 
reptile610 said:
easier/ cheaper to just get another axle?
Click to expand...


In a word yes. The cost to buy the parts new and then pay someone to install them would most likely be more than just replacing the unit as a whole with another diff.
 
If you want scout2 44s axles let me know I just went to 60 front and 14 rear
 
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