Bad noise

Bad noise

rob367

Jeeper
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Location
Rush, Ky.
Vehicle(s)
81 CJ7, 4.2 I6, 3 spd auto, Dana 300 tc, Dana 44's front and rear.

88 Cherokee Leredo, 4.0 I6, auto.
I just put a new muffler on my CJ and now ive got a bad clanking when I start it up. This noise wasnt there before the new muffler. Not sure if ive got a top end problem, the oil pump seems to be getting oil to the rocker arms fine. Could this be a water pump or timing chain issue? When I start it, the noise isnt as bad, but when I give it gas, it gets worst. Havent started it since. Any suggestions would be appreciated.:confused:
 
is it for sure coming from the engine? when i played with my exhaust the donut gasket was shot and moving the pipes around made it more noticeable.
 
First rule of working on a Jeep: Always do the easiest/cheapest thing first. I would start by checking to see if maybe something is rattling that you moved or changed while putting on the muffler. When you give it gas, the engine tilts, and could be making the contact worse. Or maybe the engine was super loud before the new muffler and now you can hear the noise?
 
The sound is definetly coming from the front. Theres no binding anywhere on the exhaust anywhere. Checked from the front to the back. At first I thought it could have been a bad lifter or a loose rocker arm, but if you listen close, its torward the water pump and timing chain. If the timing chain is slapping around, Ill just change it out. Trying to get ideas before I start tearing things apart. Thanks for the info so far.
 
Installing a new muffler can move the rest of the exhaust around, manifold gasket leak, exhaust donut leak. If that fails is new muffler larger than the old one? Is anything hitting it?;)
 
You could take off the fan belt to see if it is clutch fan related..

If it is the timing chain, I would not run it, if it slips you could be out some big bucks. My timing chain jumped when starting once, no funny noises, but it would not start.

I still think it's quite a coincidence..
 
Thanks for the replys, im gonna let it sit till I can take some things off so that I can see whats going on. Figured id go ahead and change the timing chain and the water pump for good measure. Dont know if those are the OE or not, better be safe than sorry.;)
 
Thanks for the replys, im gonna let it sit till I can take some things off so that I can see whats going on. Figured id go ahead and change the timing chain and the water pump for good measure. Dont know if those are the OE or not, better be safe than sorry.;)

If you are going to the trouble to change the timing chain, please do it right & go with a double roller chain with steel gear instead of the factory POS nylon covered gear sillent chain setup. Might be a good time for a performance camshaft.;)
 
I did this job not long ago. Summit has a nice double roller set for under $40.00. Be careful the aluminum timing cover, very expensive if you break it!
 
Found my problem, the PO probably dropped something in the carb, pulled the head and found the number three piston had been beat like a redhead stepchild. So im gonna change the pistons and rings. A buddy said to change the rod and main bearing caps while i was at it. At least im on the right track now, thanks for all of the help guys.:notworthy:
 
Found my problem, the PO probably dropped something in the carb, pulled the head and found the number three piston had been beat like a redhead stepchild. So im gonna change the pistons and rings. A buddy said to change the rod and main bearing caps while i was at it. At least im on the right track now, thanks for all of the help guys.:notworthy:

IMHO it's not advisable to swap out main cap without align boring the the engine
On a rod you'd need to have to rod resized. Granted changing the bearing would be a given.;)
 
I could see changing bearings , maybe, but why caps??:cool:
 
X3 bearings yes, caps :confused:
 
yould only need to mess with the caps if the rod was knockin real bad for a long time then it would egg shape the rod end, if thats the case take it to a machine shop and have em resize the rod end. if i were you and there was something bangin around in that cylinder while it was running then i'd pull the motor and have it bored, you'll also wanna have the crank checked as the rod journal could also be wore and out of round. i'd just go ahead do a full rebuild atleast you'll know what you got, as opposed to puttin it back together and just have it come apart and do even more damage
 
yould only need to mess with the caps if the rod was knockin real bad for a long time then it would egg shape the rod end, if thats the case take it to a machine shop and have em resize the rod end. if i were you and there was something bangin around in that cylinder while it was running then i'd pull the motor and have it bored, you'll also wanna have the crank checked as the rod journal could also be wore and out of round. i'd just go ahead do a full rebuild atleast you'll know what you got, as opposed to puttin it back together and just have it come apart and do even more damage

Well said.:cool:
 

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