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Been grinding throught the '75 wiring schemtic...

Been grinding throught the '75 wiring schemtic...

Hedgehog

Always Off-Roading Jeeper
Posts
9,370
Thanks
4
Location
Tucson/Marana Arizona
Vehicle(s)
-1975 Jeep CJ5, 360 V8, Headers, Duel Exhaust,T15 transmission, D-20 Transfer case, Twin Stick Conversion, Warn 8274 Winch
-1951 Willys Wagon, 4 cylinder, "F" head, little rust, very close to stock
Most of it makes sense to me, but (example) exactly what does. "52A White W/TR 18" mean? Some of it is obvious:

52A = the wire number
White = the primary wire color
W/TR = WHAT!
18 = I imagine is the wire size
 
usually denotes tracer, as w/r white w/ red tracer or something like that
 
so now you know what color it is and how big it is so hopefully you can find it.:D
 
mstar - Well yeah if it were White W/R it would be as easy as you indicate. The problem is there are a bunch of wires that are labeled "White W/TR".

IOPort51 - Other than the wire being mostly white, and at this point I don't see any white wires. The next step would be to remove the tape from the BIG ol' wire bundle under the dash. While that isn't what I want to do, it really wouldn't be that difficult. At this point I need to find the brake light wires, they should be mostly white and the back up light wires. Neither were hooked up when I got the jeep and there aren't any wires loose wires in the general area, so I need to hunt for them in the wiring bundle.
 
Whenever possible I try to go from point to point, like I see that your 52A is an 18 gauge white wire with tracer, probably red tracer it starts at the back up switch with wire 34A which will be on your Transmission it then goes to a 3 pin connector and mine was in the engine bay drivers side a few inches away from the firewall disconnect. Yours looks similar. I do see that your 3 pin connector has 35 red 18 gauge and 37 orange 16 gauge coming off the backside of the connector going to a vacuum disconnect which I would assume is for QuadraTrac Transfer Case so it wont shift until your in neutral?? So if you find your vacuum disconnect with the red/orange and trace it to its origin that might help :chug:
 
I don't have a QuadraTrac Transmission . It's a lowly ol' T-15 Transmission , there is a switch that at one time went to something computerized, but I did as my jeep guy suggested and ignored it. I'm going to dig around to find that 3 pin plug. A starting point is a starting point.
 
Hedge, didn't mean to over simplify your dilemma.That is strange that all the wires are marked as such.Good luck on your project. Mike
 
Thanks guys, both of you have helped. The very first thing I did when the Jeep arrived was pull the ratty old dash dash and replace it with one that came from my jeep guys parts pile. The new one was painted and only partially installed with only a few switches attached and a few screws holding it on so to make life MUCH simpler it should be removed. Life would be MUCH easier. It isn't very productive to lay half in, half out of the jeep looking up into darkness with flashlight in hand trying to sort wires.
 
Thanks guys, both of you have helped. The very first thing I did when the Jeep arrived was pull the ratty old dash dash and replace it with one that came from my jeep guys parts pile. The new one was painted and only partially installed with only a few switches attached and a few screws holding it on so to make life MUCH simpler it should be removed. Life would be MUCH easier. It isn't very productive to lay half in, half out of the jeep looking up into darkness with flashlight in hand trying to sort wires.

I like taking the drivers seat out and lay in the floor :chug: its so hard on your body being contorted sideways in the door jamb
 
That tall door jamb is hard on a fat old body like mine. I haven't installed the seat yet and I've pulled the steering wheel, fewer twists and bends. With the dash out the job should move right along ..... at least that is my hope. The original dash didn't have the lights and several other electrical goodies so what I've mentioned so far is just the beginning. Wiring the KC lights should be relatively easy, kind of like new construction. All I need to find is a good power source, the PO was kind enough to have a salvageable fuze box that will be used for the lights.

Heres a question. I've got 4 KC lights. 2 up on the windshield and 2 down on the front bumper. Should they be wired seperately or in pairs? Pairs would be the easiest to wire and a minimum of extra switches. Each wired seperately would allow the use of only the lights I really need and 4 switches can increase the cool factor.
 
Yep - getting under a Jeep dash is a pain. Good idea pulling the dash. I would suggest you use a good fuse block to protect the new circuits. I used some cole-hersee and blue sea marine parts last year to wire a new alternator. The original Jeep wiring leaves a lot to be desired.
 
That tall door jamb is hard on a fat old body like mine. I haven't installed the seat yet and I've pulled the steering wheel, fewer twists and bends. With the dash out the job should move right along ..... at least that is my hope. The original dash didn't have the lights and several other electrical goodies so what I've mentioned so far is just the beginning. Wiring the KC lights should be relatively easy, kind of like new construction. All I need to find is a good power source, the PO was kind enough to have a salvageable fuze box that will be used for the lights.

Heres a question. I've got 4 KC lights. 2 up on the windshield and 2 down on the front bumper. Should they be wired seperately or in pairs? Pairs would be the easiest to wire and a minimum of extra switches. Each wired seperately would allow the use of only the lights I really need and 4 switches can increase the cool factor.

I would wire them in pairs, I have a set im gonna put on my windshield like yours, it came with a wiring harness though. If you dont have a harness hit the local parts store and get one it will have a relay in it so that you are not pushing the high amps thru the light switch to the lights it will go from the battery thru the relay into the lights :chug:
 
Some progress, but it came hard. After pulling the dash it became obvious the tape needed to come off the wiring loom. Aaannnnddd the fun began. As the tape came off each junction was retaped to keep things as consistent to the original as possible when it comes time to redo the tape job. About half way through the loom I start running into duct tape, big wads of duct tape. Naturally everything inside the wad was covered in duct tape glue, nasty stuff, but inside the duct tape I found the horn plate that is supposed to go on the steering wheel. With a little imagination it will be put back where it belongs. Win for me! Next I find the plug that is supposed to plug into the wires running to the brake switch. Cool another win for me!

Problems start about now. The turn signal that worked yesterday doesn't work now. Power is traced to the plug but doesn't go out. So, the plug was pulled apart. Those wild and crazy PO's, mine evidently painted the jeep a copper color, which would have been better if he's covered the wiring plug. The terminals are covered in at least two different paint colors. How it got ANY electrical contact in a mystery to me. So the contacts were cleaned and plugged back in. Unfortunately the drivers side turn signal won't work. Much fiddling showed a corroded bulb socket. Everything works now, or does it. Again no turn signal. I hit the hazard switch and bingo everything is working. Still no turn signal. The problem must be in turn signal switch, nope. The problem ended up being in the contacts on the hazard light switch. But once again NO drivers turn signal. It turned out to be the bulb again. EEERrrrrrrrrrr!

Then came the brake light. I put power to the light side and, naturally the drivers side doesn't work. It turned out to be another plug with gunk in it. Tomorrow I'm going to pull each and every plug I can find. I'm planning on spraying the connection then putting it together several times in an attempt to clean the connections as well as possible. Man I hope this works. Electrical failures due to, lets call it corrosion in the plugs is unacceptable. Surprisingly enough the wires seem pretty good, not broken or brittle. Sure I did find a few issues that were repaired with heat shrink tubing, but generally I was impressed. Now to figure out where the back up light wires are located.................................

I know this sounds like a bitch bitch bitch type post, but surprisingly enough it isn't. Some fixable problems were found, the wires I'm looking for were found AND a gift of finding what's left of the horn circuit is a BIG bonus! The light at the beginning of the tunnel is finally becoming bright enough to see. It was a good day!
 
I had similar problems like what you are having my answer was this :chug:
 
Ohh yeah, I've thought about doing exactly that. But I've got more time to work out problems than I have money. The real deciding factor was the over all condition of the wires. I expected to see old burnt crunchy wires under the loom tape, what I found was relatively nice clean new looking wire. ..... except for the crusty connectors and they are easy to find.
 
Okay, now I have brake lights, backup lights and a horn. Getting closer to being a road legal vehicle.
 

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