big lift bad steering question

big lift bad steering question
i just found an 85 wagoneer i might be able to get axles off of would these be worth getting or do they not have the right knuckles up front?

1980-1991 Waggys have a driver-side drop. You would need to flip your *Dana 300 to make this work. I "believe" those are flat-top knuckles.

That year also used a Corp20 rearend ('76-'86 waggys), and in that form they are stronger then the Dana 44 . The axle tubes are nice and thick, one piece design, and larger R&P.

If you go this route, get the springs and use them in an SOA configuration. This will stretch your wheelbase offering greater stability with your COG going higher. they will also give you a better ride and offer more articulation.

Edit: *Or whatever xfercase you are using...
 
How do you ''flip'' your Transfer Case :confused:
There are a thousand writeups on flipping a xfercase, I've never done it so I wont offer any technical insight...maybe someone here who's done it can chime in. Try a google search and you will come up with a lot of information.
 
my tranny is a T-18 from a cherokee and has the Dana 20 behind it i believe, could i just use the Transfer Case from the wagoneer behind my tranny?

This is taken from Jeeptech:
1984 – 1987
NP207 - "Command-Trac" part-time only - 2.61:1 low range
NP228/NP229 - "Selec-Trac" – 2.62:1 low range - identified by 4H (full-time) - N - 4L (part-time)


Depending on which option the waggy you aquired has, I would completely stay away from the 228/229 for the obvious reasons of full time 4wd.

The 207...meh...I would just flip the Dana 20 .
 
ive been doing some more research and some people talk about getting a z link to fix the steering, would that fix it would it still have bump steer? also where can you get these i heard rocky road makes them but i can only find it in their SOA kits not by itself


If you're looking at Rocky Road stuff I would go with their OTT steering setup vs the Z link, I am planing on doing their SOA with the OTT steering upgrade. I don't remember if it is listed by itself on their site, if not I'd shoot them an email of give em a call. Everyone I've know that has used their stuff is extremely happy with it.
 
been doing some more research and it seems people don't like the front axle in that year woggy, what about axles from an FSJ, would they work? im pretty sure they hace the pass. side diff on them just not sure about mounting springs on them and strength
 
I narrowed a Waggy 78 44. Grind out the weld on the yoke all the way around. 4-1/2" angle grinder works good. Take your time. You don't want to grind into the axle tube. Then smack it off. Do 1 end first and set the angle. Then match the other side.

I took it in to a weld shop that is familiar with welding castings. They need to be preheated before welding. $30 was cheap insurance.

This is for setting the caster angle.

Camber - you are tilting the bottom of the tires in, top out.
 
didn'y see a need to start a new thread since this one already is sorta about it, but does anybody know of a place that makes a dropped pitman arm longer than 4'' or if a machine shop could do it?
 
The way I understand it, Most dropped pitman arms are made from a stock part that is just bent to get the 4" drop. They might make one longer, but I haven't seen one myself. I have run across some that are longer length than others by a 1/2" or so, but not any more drop.
I had to replace the dropped pitman arm on my CJ last year to gain back some lost turning radius. I found one that was about 1/2" longer length than the one that was one there and gained a considerable amount of turning room.
 

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