Bigger Tires Speedometer change

[jafo]

Yes-all axles must have the same R&P ratio. Also, you want the same size tires.
LG

I think what'll happen is it's probably gonna get the lift kit, wheels and tires installed and drove. If I like the way the combo drives, it may, depending on what I find when the diff cover comes off tomorrow, just get the axle kit. Then it's just gonna get drove some more.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Do a built thread.
LG

 

[EVERYUSERNAMEISTAKEN]

I figured it would be harder on the clutch. It's not going off road until the one piece axles are in also.

Dude I have 36" tires and 4.88 gears. Before that I had the 3.54's and it did fine with my T-5 Transmission . Sure it was hard on the clutch and now its probably just as bad or worse b/c I have to take off in 2nd gear. If I take off in 1st gear the rpm's are wrapped up before I pass the stop sign!! What I'm saying is that you should get the tires you want and run them with what you have until it breaks or you find it necessary to change it.

Here's a speedo gear guide:
The Novak Guide to Jeep Speedometer Gears, 1980-2006

 

[jafo]

Dude I have 36" tires and 4.88 gears. Before that I had the 3.54's and it did fine with my T-5 Transmission . Sure it was hard on the clutch and now its probably just as bad or worse b/c I have to take off in 2nd gear. If I take off in 1st gear the rpm's are wrapped up before I pass the stop sign!! What I'm saying is that you should get the tires you want and run them with what you have until it breaks or you find it necessary to change it.

Here's a speedo gear guide:
The Novak Guide to Jeep Speedometer Gears, 1980-2006

I had to laugh bro. So true about 1st gear. It's like 1.5 seconds then shift.

Thanks for the link. Check'n it out right now.

 

[shum8]

The D/300 is easy to change the drive gear in it. The D/20 is a PITA.
LG

The changing is easy - but I had trouble finding the gear.......

 

[jafo]

The changing is easy - but I had trouble finding the gear.......

What case do you have and what size is your tires.and what gear did you go with? Where did you finally find one?

 

[shum8]

I have a Dana 300 , I'm running 32's, and for the life of me I don't remember the tooth count. I'd hafta go back and look. Got it off a guy selling them on eBay I believe......


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[jafo]

I have a Dana 300 , I'm running 32's, and for the life of me I don't remember the tooth count. I'd hafta go back and look. Got it off a guy selling them on eBay I believe......


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Back when I was into heads up street racing, had a '70 Monte Carlo and dropped in 411 gears. Speedo was off a little. Took it to a speedo shop and this guy installed a small gear box between the tail housing and speedo cable. I found some of these on ebay last night. I'll have to message to see if they will fit an old cj Dana 20 Transfer Case .

 

[jpeck71]

Back when I was into heads up street racing, had a '70 Monte Carlo and dropped in 411 gears. Speedo was off a little. Took it to a speedo shop and this guy installed a small gear box between the tail housing and speedo cable. I found some of these on ebay last night. I'll have to message to see if they will fit an old cj Dana 20 Transfer Case .

I haven't used them but I saw those too and was going to suggest them for you. If you don't use something like that you have to open up the Dana 20 and replace a small plastic gear. If you have the Transmission off already it might be worth it to replace the gear. If it were me I wouldn't bother taking it apart and put an adapter on. They didn't seem prohibitively expensive.

 

[jafo]

Just an update on the lift kit.

I worked on it for a few hours yesterday and almost have the back buttoned up and done. I just have to torque some bolts down and check those two piece axle nut torque and stick the rear tires on then get ready to do the front end. Eye balling the rear pinion angle looks about like it did before the lift. Used 2 deg shims.

This is my first lift kit install. Not first suspension work but it's definitely different than a car or coil spring. It's simple straight forward but has those unexpected thing like the single brakeline in back caused me some trouble. It's too short with suspension totally unloaded. So it will have to be changed. The short line prevented me from getting the axle housing to set down all the way on the spring. I finally after trying it with a floor jack got two smaller jack stand and set them under each spring just in front of the plates and lowering the jeep down and wiggling the rear into place. The housing still didn't want to totally drop onto the pins but finally worked it down with new u-bolts a little at a time. I also made a rookie mistake not snugging down new MORE shackles. This helped center the axle housing. I think I'm going to like those MORE shackles. They are beefy! Other than that, just a couple more steps and rear will be semi done except for the new brake line. I think it will be ok unless I go hill jumping or 4 wheeling which I won't hill jump and won't take it off road until the brake line is replaced.

Well here we go on the front.

 

[jafo]

On the rear shackles. They are MORE heavy duty shackles. What are they supposed to be tightened to? I got no instructions in either kit box. So I have no idea how tight they are supposed to be. I started going by the trail master instructions and it said front and rear spring is 80 ft. lbs. I started doing that and the rear shackle started to bend inwards and that doesnct seem right so I backed off. I can't find any online instruction sheet for these. These shackles are the ones with the solid center spacer. Anyone install these could give me some info on how tight the upper and lower shackle bolt should be?

 

[Hedgehog]

This is largely a common sense thing. Remember shackles are supposed to move, but not be sloppy. I tighten mine until they are tight enough on the sides to remove any space or movement along the sides of the bushing, but so the shackle can move with a little tension. Then lock'em down, I use interference type lock nuts. With those the bolt/nut doesn't have to be tight enough to prevent the nut from coming loose to stay in place. Don't over think this one, you'll be alright.

 

[jafo]

This is largely a common sense thing. Remember shackles are supposed to move, but not be sloppy. I tighten mine until they are tight enough on the sides to remove any space or movement along the sides of the bushing, but so the shackle can move with a little tension. Then lock'em down, I use interference type lock nuts. With those the bolt/nut doesn't have to be tight enough to prevent the nut from coming loose to stay in place. Don't over think this one, you'll be alright.

Ok. Thanks.

 

[Posi]

Your crawl ratio is 21.1