Brake and Rear Differntial Help

[CJ Ironcity]

New to Drum Brakes. Local mechanic said that I need to get the following for the rear. (I have a Dana 44 on the back Axel)
-Shoes
-Wheel Cylinders
-Drums
-All of the Hardware

I also need the parking break strut and spring.

I just want to make sure that I get everything I need in one shot.

Also, my rear drive shaft is loose. Would it be the ring/pinion? How do I identify which ring/pinion set it would be?

Thanks for any help. A rookie looking to learn.

 

[Sasquach]

Have you had the drums off? you may or may not need them but you will need to get them off to see or have them checked, wheel cylinders are pretty cheap but you may not need them and the above applies here too.

Rear drive shaft loose? There will be rotational play but is pretty minimal and if you were able to measure it you should have about .010" movement in a perfect world. My old CJ3b rear axle had .060" but felt like much more, it was shot though at that point.

Look on the rear diff cover for a metal id tag that would have ratio and gear teeth count.

 

[Old Dog]

If the wheel clys. aren't leaking there's no need to change them.
The shoes should be easy to see if they are wore out or not, same
with the drums.
Do you know what the rear 44 came out of, as your jeep didn't come with one.

 

[elwood blues]

New to Drum Brakes. Local mechanic said that I need to get the following for the rear. (I have a Dana 44 on the back Axel)
-Shoes
-Wheel Cylinders
-Drums
-All of the Hardware

I also need the parking break strut and spring.

I just want to make sure that I get everything I need in one shot.

Also, my rear drive shaft is loose. Would it be the ring/pinion? How do I identify which ring/pinion set it would be?

Thanks for any help. A rookie looking to learn.

The shoes and hardware generally aren't expensive and should always be replaced together. As for the drums, unless they are heavily scored (i.e. your shoes are down to the rivets and wearing groves in the drums) they should be able to be machined down. Back when I was a mechanic we'd machine brake drums and rotors for $20 for a pair, that was a dozen years ago, but it's still a lot cheaper than buying new.

Parking brake strut and spring are simple one for one replacements.

Wheel cylinders, if they're not leaking, they don't need to be replaced.

And you're going to have to describe in a little better detail "my rear drive shaft is loose". Could it simply be your universal joints?

 

[OldC7]

Just a note go to NAPA or a decent parts house or you will pay double on the brake parts through a 4x4 catalog.
I just picked up my master cylinder today at NAPA it was $28. It was even cheaper through their online store but with shipping its about the same.

 

[CJ Ironcity]

It came out of a Scout

 

[IOPort51]

take the cover off the differential and clean the inside then replace the gear lube, count the teeth on the r&P while the cover is off. divide the little one into the big one for the ratio.
I would do the same with the front if you have never changed the gear oil.
And you will know the ratio matches.