Brake question. I need to run all new lines.

Brake question. I need to run all new lines.

Rescue Diver

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Kansas City
Vehicle(s)
1979 CJ-7 with a fiberglass body and 1982 wide track axles, 258 I-6 with a 1995 4.0 head, HEI distributor, Motorcraft 2100 Carb, T-18 wide ratio tranny, Super Lift Springs and 33s, a 1997 BMW 328i, and a 2010 REDLINE CONQUEST TEAM Cyclocross Bike. :)
My 79 CJ7 came with 82-85 wide trac axles and now has new 82-85 calipers on the front, and all new rear drum brakes. It also now has a new master cylinder bolted to the power brake booster. What it doesn't have is any brake lines. It was a half finished frame off restoration after all.

My question is, does a 79 or 82 CJ7 require a proportioning valve, and if so, where does it mount? Any pics would very much be appreciated!
 
yes, inside frame rail, drivers side just behind the firewall.

My 79 CJ7 came with 82-85 wide trac axles and now has new 82-85 calipers on the front, and all new rear drum brakes. It also now has a new master cylinder bolted to the power brake booster. What it doesn't have is any brake lines. It was a half finished frame off restoration after all.

My question is, does a 79 or 82 CJ7 require a proportioning valve, and if so, where does it mount? Any pics would very much be appreciated!
 
Rescue, I did a complete replumb of my 67 this winter updating the brakes to front disc from a modern GM truck and rear 11 inch drums. I had fun with the brake lines, bought a roll of line and all new fittings and blocks from a specialty brake supplier here in Riverside that knew exactly what I wanted each trip, and it took several. I am extremely satisfied with the results.
You are going need to make a few custom brakes and a few custom clips along the way of that plumbing job but the end result will be worth it.

Now about the proportioning valve, I got an adjustable one from Summit, I got their brand one as it was not as scary in price as the other ones they sell. had to make a few brackets for it but it now fits nicely, can be gotten to for adjustments easily and after a few tinkerings got it set where I feel it needs to be set. I placed it about 2 feet back from the Master cylinder along the frame, but that is in an early style CJ, in a 72, with the MC on the dash board I would set it about mid frame, under the drivers seat on the frame.
 
Thanks! What inside diameter line is used on factory Jeeps?
 
wow, I could not say for your year jeep
mine was 1/4, I upgraded 5/16ths.
 
I think I have it all figured out. I plan to grab a proportioning valve out of a chevy truck from the local pick a part, and buy a roll of 5/16 inch line. I already have a flaring tool. Does anyone know where I can find a nice diagram of where to run the brake lines on a CJ7? The old ones were already gone when I bought it. This whole project would have been a lot easier if I started it myself, but when I got it, the whole thing was already disassembled with the frame sandblasted and painted, so I'm stuck figuring out how to put it all back together without getting to take pics of where everything was before. The worst part is it didn't come with a firewall template for where all the holes go. I just got a fiberglass tub and firewall waiting to be cut.
 
Can't help with the diagram, but be sure and only use double flares on those brake lines. ;)
 
The lines along the frame on the drivers side.
X2 on the flairs.
 
most modern systems are 1/4, I did 5/16th because that is what came out of the M/C. I had to adapt down at each brake and the proportioning valve, If you want it to be simpler go with 1/4 as most of the stuff is made for that. My 5/16 set up can move the fluid alright, but it would be easier to go with 1/4.
 
be sure and only use double flares on those brake lines. ;)
you bet, only way not to leak, the tool for this is not that expensive
 
I have no diagram, but for the rear, run down the frame from the small resivour in the MC till even with the rear diff, hop over till above it and adapt to a flexible line down to the diff, this line needs to be long enough for full droop on the diff plus a little, then on top o the diff use a splitting block and go ti each brake.
in the front run up the frame till above the front diff, splitting block, ons side flexible to front brake other side rns around till above the other side of diff on frame and adapts to flexible to brake.
 
I went by the local pick a part yesterday and grabbed a proportioning valve off of an early 70's cadilac. It lines up perfectly with the mounting holes on the CJ frame, and the brass cleaned up to look like new when I took it to the wire wheel on my bench grinder. I saw the exact same valve on ebay listed as a CJ Proportioning Valve for $175 but I only paid $7.00! :D

It has two output ports for the front brakes, so I'll be running separate lines from it to the right and left front. I also grabbed a T fitting for the center of the rear axle. After taking some quick measurments, I discovered that none of the line segments would be so long that they would have to be spliced if I just buy the pre made lines at Advance auto. This will save me the trouble of having to make my own and they will look better on the straight sections than if I used a coiled up roll of line. I have the right flaring tool to do double flares, but why bother when I don't have to?
 
~~~ I have the right flaring tool to do double flares, but why bother when I don't have to?
Because single SAE 45 flairs are not strong enough for break line pressures, are not safe for brakes and could cost you your life or even some one elses if your brakes fail.

Good article here -->> Brake Plumbing Secrets Revealed!
 
Because single SAE 45 flairs are not strong enough for break line pressures, are not safe for brakes and could cost you your life or even some one elses if your brakes fail.

Good article here -->> Brake Plumbing Secrets Revealed!

I think you misunderstood me. I said I DO have the right flaring tool to make double flares, and I know how use it, but why bother when I can buy already cut to length lines with double flares for only a few dollars each at the parts store?
 
Ahh... :) If you don't mind a little excess line, I agree, makes life much easier. ;)
 
Ahh... :) If you don't mind a little excess line, I agree, makes life much easier. ;)

Yep. Since I'm plumbing it all from scratch instead of replacing just a segment, I think I'll be able to make it all fit correctly with no extra line.

Measure twice, purchase once! :D

And with all the tons of things I need to do to finish this jeep, the more tedious work I can avoid, the better!
 
Good luck with the double flairs, they say that even some one who is good at it blows it 25% of the time. Do be careful with the proportioning valve. The PyP yards have to drain the fluids and they leave the cap off the MC. If you managed to get any water in the PV it will be toast. It is more than likely OK. Just be aware.
One of the lessons my father taught me "A car that stops well is worth more than a car that goes fast".:cool:

I went by the local pick a part yesterday and grabbed a proportioning valve off of an early 70's cadilac. It lines up perfectly with the mounting holes on the CJ frame, and the brass cleaned up to look like new when I took it to the wire wheel on my bench grinder. I saw the exact same valve on ebay listed as a CJ Proportioning Valve for $175 but I only paid $7.00! :D

It has two output ports for the front brakes, so I'll be running separate lines from it to the right and left front. I also grabbed a T fitting for the center of the rear axle. After taking some quick measurments, I discovered that none of the line segments would be so long that they would have to be spliced if I just buy the pre made lines at Advance auto. This will save me the trouble of having to make my own and they will look better on the straight sections than if I used a coiled up roll of line. I have the right flaring tool to do double flares, but why bother when I don't have to?
 
Good luck with the double flairs, they say that even some one who is good at it blows it 25% of the time. Do be careful with the proportioning valve. The PyP yards have to drain the fluids and they leave the cap off the MC. If you managed to get any water in the PV it will be toast. It is more than likely OK. Just be aware.
One of the lessons my father taught me "A car that stops well is worth more than a car that goes fast".:cool:

Well I guess I must not be making myself clear. I've said twice that even though I do know how to make double flares, I now plan to save time by buying ready made cut to length lines with the flares already done. :rolleyes:

As for the PV, it was still full of fluid when I removed it from the old caddi and looks clean and corrosion free with the lines removed from it. It'll be fine. :)
 
Oh no, your quite clear, good luck with your build.:cool:

Well I guess I must not be making myself clear. I've said twice that even though I do know how to make double flares, I now plan to save time by buying ready made cut to length lines with the flares already done. :rolleyes:

As for the PV, it was still full of fluid when I removed it from the old caddi and looks clean and corrosion free with the lines removed from it. It'll be fine. :)
 

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