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Brake Rotor Removal w/ Locking Hubs...or "How do I get this dang thing off?!"

Brake Rotor Removal w/ Locking Hubs...or "How do I get this dang thing off?!"
Re: Brake Rotor Removal w/ Locking Hubs...or "How do I get this dang thing off?!"

I forgot to check. Could just be my memory, ain't what it used to be. Maybe it was a 1 5/16" socket I needed for something, I just recall a "5/16"! Might have been the ball joint nut.


5/16" is real close to 1/4" inch--
Ball joint nut is MUCH bigger than that.
LG



:rolleyes:
 
Re: Brake Rotor Removal w/ Locking Hubs...or "How do I get this dang thing off?!"

Ok, I bought the spindle nut wrench from the link. Worked great after I realized it needed a bit of encouragement from the mallet to get onto the mangled nut. Got it all apart, rotors turned, everything 'kinda' cleaned up (the standards are getting lax compared to the newly painted locking hub covers and shiny polished up lug nuts). I was smart enough to know to keep the left bearings separate from the right ones, but forgot to note the inner from the outer.

How do I tell them from each other?

Is the $4 seal from Oreilly's gonna cut it? (I'm just trying to give it a once over and make it driveable day to day for now.)
 
Re: Brake Rotor Removal w/ Locking Hubs...or "How do I get this dang thing off?!"

Dont feel bad, i had a hard time on a 74 but figured it out, heat, hammer and time.
 
Re: Brake Rotor Removal w/ Locking Hubs...or "How do I get this dang thing off?!"

I believe they are different sizes.

While you are at it don't forget to remove the spindle to check the spindle bearings. Probably the most ignored bearing in a Jeep. Yes, it will take some pounding with a hammer and some wiggling to remove. I use a chisle, lay it flat and hammer it until a small gap apears, drive a screw driver in to hold the gap. Then do the same on the other side. This starts the spindle out. Continue to go from side to side, tap, put some sort of wedge in the gap, go to the other side, tap...... when the gap is ~1/8" you might be able to use your hands to wiggle it out the rest of the way.

When I did mine the bearings were trashed, I don't believe they had ever been serviced.
 
Re: Brake Rotor Removal w/ Locking Hubs...or "How do I get this dang thing off?!"

I was smart enough to know to keep the left bearings separate from the right ones, but forgot to note the inner from the outer.
How do I tell them from each other?
The inner and outer bearings will have a different part #. Google the part # to ID.
 
Re: Brake Rotor Removal w/ Locking Hubs...or "How do I get this dang thing off?!"

I was smart enough to know to keep the left bearings separate from the right ones, but forgot to note the inner from the outer.
How do I tell them from each other?

Is the $4 seal from Oreilly's gonna cut it? (I'm just trying to give it a once over and make it driveable day to day for now.)
It's not so much the place you buy it, it's the brand that you buy. National makes good seals. If your 84 is like my 82, and I believe it is, the hub seal number is 4131 for a National.

What brand bearings did you get? If they're Timken then they're probably SET45 and SET47's. The 45's are the outer. It will be brg. # LM501349 and the race will be #LM501310.
img3096qc.jpg
 
Re: Brake Rotor Removal w/ Locking Hubs...or "How do I get this dang thing off?!"

guy at oreilly's hooked me up w/ nationals. you were correct. thanks everyone, finally have parts going back on the "cheat" (my 3yr old named it that :-P) instead of coming off. I feel good about it. Had to shave a lump off the inside of one hub to seat an inner race, but it's all good now. Off to find one of the hundreds of places ya'll have advised on the procedure for setting the nuts now. Once again, I want to be more certain than the FSM and the Chilton's explain.
 
Re: Brake Rotor Removal w/ Locking Hubs...or "How do I get this dang thing off?!"

Once again, did you do the spindle bearing? There are 3 bearings per side, inner, outer and spindle.
 
Not this time, but I'll be in again soon. Have more pressing issues right now, like now that I added brake fluid it pisses all over its own left rear tire every time I press the brakes.


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Re: Brake Rotor Removal w/ Locking Hubs...or "How do I get this dang thing off?!"

I understand, like you, I only did 2/3rds of a job servicing my wheel bearings for years. Granted that was ignorance and not a clear choice on my part to ignore the spindle bearings. Don't worry about it, the spindle bearings only come into play when your are actually in 4wd. The original ones in my CJ5 were trashed to the point where they were worn flat on one side. Fortunately the drive axle was/is undamaged. I suppose the lack of support might have contributed to the completely destroyed unrebuildable hub bearings.
 
Your warning is well noted. Only projected 4 wheeling right now is up my drive way when it snows. Everything else that has to do with suspension, drivetrain...well pretty much everything will need touched before I head out on the trail and trust it at all.


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Re: Brake Rotor Removal w/ Locking Hubs...or "How do I get this dang thing off?!"

To keep your Jeep in good running condition it should be run in 4wd for ~1/2 hour a month. Why? The grease and oil in the running gear needs to move. Believe it or not your front drive shaft absolutely needs exercise in the slip joint. If it isn't exercised the grease just sits with the shaft going in and out killing your drive shafts spline. When the shaft is turning and moving the grease in the shaft pumps around moving contaminants around. Two sources taught me that, a drive shaft shop and Rob at "Willys Works". That is why the front drive shaft in a full time 4wd will out last a part time front drive shaft 4:1.
 
Everything needs it's exercise. I'll add that to my maintenance list but it will be mild road 4wd. You don't perchance know the proper location of the clutch nut on the dial screw in the locking hub? Can't get the knuckle behind the front diff to stop spinning when I turn the wheels.


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Re: Brake Rotor Removal w/ Locking Hubs...or "How do I get this dang thing off?!"

I an familiar with a couple different kinds of locking hubs. but to be honest I have no clue as to the nut you are talking about. Ultimately hubs are simple things, a sleeve slides in to lock the outer hub to the inner hub or axle and slides the other way to release the two. Is your front actually locked in gear? Can you stop the rotation? It isn't rare at all to have your front drive shaft and other components turn even when out of gear. Have you got any pictures? I'll have to visit your other post on this, but right now I'm off to "Willys Works" to get some differential bearings for my 3.31 regear. the PO used cheap bearings, I want good old American bearings in my Jeep, they are a known quantity.
 
Re: Brake Rotor Removal w/ Locking Hubs...or "How do I get this dang thing off?!"

To keep your Jeep in good running condition it should be run in 4wd for ~1/2 hour a month. Why? The grease and oil in the running gear needs to move. Believe it or not your front drive shaft absolutely needs exercise in the slip joint. If it isn't exercised the grease just sits with the shaft going in and out killing your drive shafts spline. When the shaft is turning and moving the grease in the shaft pumps around moving contaminants around. Two sources taught me that, a drive shaft shop and Rob at "Willys Works". That is why the front drive shaft in a full time 4wd will out last a part time front drive shaft 4:1.


Thanks for the info....it makes sense and will be put into use.
 

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