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Bushing vs bearing

Bushing vs bearing

driver007

Senior Jeeper
Posts
610
Thanks
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Location
Canada
Vehicle(s)
1981 cj5 304 v8, 300 Dana,model 30 Dana and model 20 AMC rear end
I had some trouble with my pilot busing not letting my tranny shaft slide in. I pulled it and found that it was put in to far. There is a line in the crank shaft that has less ID if you drive the bushing in to far. It shrinks the inside of the bushing just enough to not let the shaft in. The auto shop ordered a new one in and it is a bearing. Is that better or worse then a bushing. It has a notch machined out of one end and a seal on the other. I take it the seal side points out. how much grease do i put in behind the bearing?
 
I had some trouble with my pilot busing not letting my tranny shaft slide in. I pulled it and found that it was put in to far. There is a line in the crank shaft that has less ID if you drive the bushing in to far. It shrinks the inside of the bushing just enough to not let the shaft in. The auto shop ordered a new one in and it is a bearing. Is that better or worse then a bushing. It has a notch machined out of one end and a seal on the other. I take it the seal side points out. how much grease do i put in behind the bearing?

I've never used one with a bearing, but if it comes with a seal, then I would pack it like a wheel bearing, fill the cavity with grease, insert the bearing and then the new seal... any excess grease will be forced out when you install the pilot shaft.
 
I should have taken a pic. The seal is built into the bearing. I packed it, but if I fill the cavity I would worry about hydro lock because it is so tight and a built in seal.
 
hydro lock because it is so tight and a built in seal.

Yes hydrolock will push the bearing out and you may not see when bolting the tranny up.

It's the way I remove an old one - fill with grease and smack a rod in. Works great.

Use a dab in the hole for new install. I prefer a bushing, they wear slowly. A needle bearing when it fails it can damage the input shaft.
 
I am not saying you are mistaken in any of this but is there a possibility that the reason it would not seat completely was because the splines on the input were not lining up with the clutch disk??

I will leave the Transmission in gear so when it hits the clutch disk a turn of the output shaft will result in a proper seating.:cool:
 
We had it in gear and the splines lined up and slid in. Just stopped at the bushing. Got the bearing in ready for round 2. I put the tranny up to it with out the clutch and the shaft slide in after I installed the bearing. Should not be anything holding back now. Just have to sucker someone to help me steady the tranny.
 
go buy two 3/8"x 5 bolts (I think they are 3/8" but I could be wrong) and cut the heads off. thread them into the back of the bell housing like they were the bell to Transmission bolts . when you raise the Transmission it is a lot easier to line up on those two studs than to find the hole in the clutch disk. Just slide the tranny on the studs into the clutch disk, it can't miss, give the output a twist and its in. and the two studs will hold the Transmission up rather than leaving it hanging from the input shaft. Putting my floor jack under the bottom of the bell housing and raising the Transmission with the Transmission jack works well for me, I have done this solo a few times and lived.:D
after it is in and you put a couple real bolts in the other holes remove the studs and replace them with real bolts.
I am also a big fan of splitting the Transmission and Transfer Case rather than doing them both together but I am a grey haired old fat guy and am into doing things as easily as possible.
 

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