• Hello Guest, we are proud to now have our Wiki online that is completely compiled and written by our members. Feel free to browse our Jeep-CJ Wiki or click on any orange keyword when looking at posts in the forum.

Buying 1978 CJ5. Need expert advice. Pics included.

Buying 1978 CJ5. Need expert advice. Pics included.

smittaycj

Jeeper
Posts
14
Thanks
0
Location
Denver, CO
Hey all, I am making the JEEP plunge with a semi-project 1978 CJ5 . The JEEP will mostly be a light-medium trail jeep for family trips. I don't plan on any heavy rock climbing or anything so I don't need any crazy setup. But at the same time, I don't care to get a CJ5 stuck anywhere =)

It has a fresh (300 miles) chevy 350. T-18 Transmission . Dana 30 front. AMC20 rear. Dana 20 transfer.

From what I understand, the engine will eventually overpower the rear axle, so I am looking at upgrading it to a Dana 44 or Dana 60.

Any specific areas I need to pay attention to on this vehicle before I lay the cash down?

How do I tell what kind and how high the lift is? The owner says it is a 4" but I just dont see it when I look.

And roughly what price is reasonable for this vehicle?
It will need new rubber and the rear axle is a future problem so I am estimating around $2200-2500. Opinions would be great!

Future plans I have for the JEEP include: Upholstery, rhino-lining the interior floor, paint, installing a winch, new tires, suspension overhaul (new shocks, springs, and bushings), and replacing the AMC20 rear with the Dana 44 /60.

If anyone see's any problem areas in the photos that I should pay special attention to, please let me know. I love criticism.

Thanks for all your guys help.

-Kevin

DSC_0004.webp
DSC_0003.webp
DSC_0001.webp
DSC_0007.webp
DSC_0016.webp
DSC_0018.webp
DSC_0020.webp
DSC_0021.webp
DSC_0022.webp
DSC_0029.webp
DSC_0033.webp
DSC_0040.webp
 
do you have a good supply of coat hangers to maintain the exhaust system?:laugh::laugh:

It doesn't look to bad, I'd say $2K, $2500 not a bad price. I am wondering why someone builds a 350 V8 and unloads it with just 300 miles on it?:dunno:

IMHO a CJ5 can be a hand full to drive, x2 with a V8, x4 with a hotrod V8. and this is your first jeep. It's your call Dad.
 
do you have a good supply of coat hangers to maintain the exhaust system?:laugh::laugh:

It doesn't look to bad, I'd say $2K, $2500 not a bad price. I am wondering why someone builds a 350 V8 and unloads it with just 300 miles on it?:dunno:

IMHO a CJ5 can be a hand full to drive, x2 with a V8, x4 with a hotrod V8. and this is your first jeep. It's your call Dad.

Coat hangers... check! No the jeep definitely needs some work/tlc, but I don't mind that part.

Why so a handful to drive? Do tell....
 
Price is right. Look close at the frame and body for cancer.
About the rear axle, a d60 has a huge pumkin for that small of wheel base, tires needed to get past that would make it tipsy. That amc diff with a few welds around the tubes and 1 piece axles would be as strong as a Dana 44 . And cost less than converrting.
 
Price is right. Look close at the frame and body for cancer.
About the rear axle, a d60 has a huge pumkin for that small of wheel base, tires needed to get past that would make it tipsy. That amc diff with a few welds around the tubes and 1 piece axles would be as strong as a Dana 44 . And cost less than converrting.

OK.. even better. If I can upgrade the model 20 to make it as durable as a Dana 44 that would be great. Do you know who sells a good kit? Am I going to have to change the whole internals or just the axle shaft? I was looking on the Superior Axle and Gear website, but I only found the twin shafts.
 
i would check the frame as it looks like its bent the panel alignment between the front fender and firewall looks sus also those aluminum plates especially at the rear i would check for rust behind
 
Coat hangers... check! No the jeep definitely needs some work/tlc, but I don't mind that part.

Why so a handful to drive? Do tell....

It's 7 feet wheel to wheel and 5 feet fender to fender but it's 6 feet tall . it is a bit short, narrow and top heavy. A Ferrari it ain't! It is cool , it looks like it could be a great ride, just be aware of you have better than twice the horse power the CJ5 was designed to carry. with the T-18 Transmission it should be able to climb phone poles. The AMC20 is not the worst thing in the world, a bit of work and a few parts and it's just fine.
 
I know a lot of guys weld around where the tubes meet the pumpkin, which is a weak spot. Other than that and one peice axles, it is a good axle. Lots of them still being run with no issues
 
It does look like it could be a 4" lift, but there is no way of knowing who's
once the painted on name wears off.
A few things that would make me run away.
The diamond plate, on the windshield frame makes me think it's shot.
It's going to need a whole new exhaust, the way it up aginst the Transfer Case is not good. and all that flex pipe.:eek:
The rad. is wrong for the 350, they just tryed to fit 2 hoses up to make it work. without the right rad and a shroud it's going to overheat.
also I'm with IOPort51, why would someone sell it after 300 miles.
A lot of people try to put 350's in jeeps and don't get it right and find out they are haveing all kinds of problems so they sell them.
But if you do buy it, the rear 20 with one piece axles will hold up as well as a Dana 44 . It might already have 1 piece axles in it, as the 350 would strip the 2 piece real easy.
IMO for what you want to do with a jeep I would find one with a stock amc motor.
 
For what it's worth a friend of mine has a 75 w/350 sitting in his driveway
with broken axles front and rear.
As already mentioned that diamond plate under the windsheild has my bet it's covering up a rusted out cowl.
Looks like an endless project too me.
Just my 2C
 
So what I am gathering is it is a :dung: jeep? What if there is no rust under the diamond plate, put a shroud on the radiator, and modify the rear 20? From all the jeeps I have seen.. they all look pretty similar and this is the one that has the least rust and needs the least work. Every other jeep I find has 150K+ miles on the clock and I imagine will need a rebuild soon.
 
I hate to say this, But most CJs are going need a bit of work. They are all ovr 25 years old and they need to be gone over and do service that sadly a lot of the POs never do. also updating systems to more modern is always on project list.
I know a V8 in a jeep looks like a huge plus, but remember that V8s are an American dream, not necessarily what is needed. Oh yes they are great engines, but remember Jeep made it's reputation with a 4 banger that had 60 hp. and started they entire off road explosion by carrying GIs alll over the world, getting them into and out of trouble and going everywhere.
There is a Jeep out there for you, and you will find it. Just do not jump at the eye candy and find one that is in the best shape you can find. the more I look at that jeep and the story behind it, the more I have to say the guy is selling aproblem that is over his head.
 
Thanks for all your advice. I appreciate it. I am going to check behind the diamond plating for rust and if it is clean I am going to buy it. I havent heard anything here that is a show stopper. I love a good project.
 
I just feel from looking at the pic's. they did this 350 swap as cheap as they could. ( wrong rad. flex pipe exaust ) and that s just what the pic's show.
I get the idea you are new to cj's and just feel you may be getting in over your head with this one. I think a more stock cj would be better. At least one with a stock drivetrain.
I own a cj with a 350 so I have some idea how they should be set up and this one just doesn't apear to be right.
I'm just afraid you are going to spend a ton of $$ to get this jeep where you want it.
But if you just have to have this one, we will try to help you get it right.
 
Thanks for all your advice. I appreciate it. I am going to check behind the diamond plating for rust and if it is clean I am going to buy it. I havent heard anything here that is a show stopper. I love a good project.

take it for a good long drive too.
 
An easy check on the cowl rust is to fold the windsheild down, The only rust mine had was behind the lower hinge on eah side. You can also look up from the inside and see a little of each side of the cowl area.
As posted any Jeep is gona need some work even if it is not apparent when you buy it.
 
Good call on the rust check. I will do another really good check of the jeep, but when I looked before I payed special attention to rust areas and the jeep was fairly clean except for the anticipated 30 yr old corrosion problems.

Now, a couple people have pointed out the radiator as a problem. What exactly is wrong with the current radiator? Too small? I was looking at the pics again and it isn't exactly a tiny radiator. I understand it will need a shroud and that is easy enough to fabricate.

Also the exhaust is an eye sore, but that again is easy enough to fabricate a new system from the headers back. So the exhaust doesn't concern me to much.
 
IMHO - The CJ sits pretty damn level from the behind. PLUS
The front end to the cowl looks 'tweaked' from the side (frame tweaked or body mounts).
As for the body, as was stated - needs a close inspection.
Frame, same thing.
Radiator - rigged but will work - HAS to have a shroud.
You already know about all the other 'little' things you will have to repair.

I've seen worse, I have seen better... :)
 
Radiator is larger than stock as you can see the torch work on the grill to fit it in, also sits taller than stock. Stock is mounted to the back of grill were your angle iron is, what is that attached to? Looks to me like you might want to get it mounted back onto the grill for rigidity.
Will this ever need to be smoged? If so that would be scary, If not you guy's get away with murder east, north and south of Ca.

Oh ya and I know you asked for "expert advice" but I just could'nt help myself.;)
 
i would check the frame as it looks like its bent the panel alignment between the front fender and firewall looks sus also those aluminum plates especially at the rear i would check for rust behind

I noticed that too. Either it's been jumped hard and bent the frame, or the body mounts are deteriorated and will need work.
 

Jeep-CJ Donation Drive

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a contribution.

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a contribution.
Goal
$200.00
Earned
$0.00
This donation drive ends in
0 hours, 0 minutes, 0 seconds
  0.0%
Back
Top Bottom