can't keep jeep running

[shawn sto]

I'm having trouble starting my jeep and keeping it running. the carborator is getting gas and i just had it cleaned in a shop, i changed the jets, and still it does not maintain fuel supply to motor so it dies. last week i had it running good. any thoughts/suggestions would be appreciated. thanks

 

[Sasquach]

Have you checked the fuel pump?
Filter clogged?

 

[shawn sto]

Ive checked the pump,filter,and reg....I have to dump gas in by hand and it runs till gas runs out....I even put new jets in and took carb down and got it all cleaned......got plenty of gas to carb....thee float was even adjusted.....it was running fine last week..

 

[Sasquach]

Ive checked the pump,filter,and reg....I have to dump gas in by hand and it runs till gas runs out....I even put new jets in and took carb down and got it all cleaned......got plenty of gas to carb....thee float was even adjusted.....it was running fine last week..

Where are you dumping gas in? be careful you don't end up in flames!
Sounding like the fuel pump from here?

 

[shawn sto]

dumping it into the top of carb,fuel pump is new.....getting fuel out of fuel line when its cranking over....im ready to get new carb....

 

[MN CJ7]

posted a good weber link on your other thead.

I will guess your plugs are fouled... Take them out and write down what each plug looks like. #1 by radiator and #6 by the fire wall. I bet they are sooty black and fouled... Too rich and common on webers... The carbon build up is conductive and kills your spark...

Clean them with a wire brush and gap them the same.... Once you do the teamrush/better brass cap, the wires, grounds, you can open the gap to .045 vs the stock gap .032 or .035 forgot its been a while... Only up date to the larger gap AFTER you have the updates.....

Webers are a larger carb that will put more fuel in there.... Need to have the ignition in top notch order including the distirbutor and a stock or close to stock advance curve.... It works together or does not work..

You would not believe what I did this weekend on a weber carb... 350miles hwy drive at 65/70 and 7 hrs of wheeling worked perfect.... Lots of sandy hill climbs and got 22/23 mpg hwy

After you get your background info... want to see some pics, what jets you are using, what carb/weber, and what you can tell us about your set up

Webers also need the Holly Low Pres Fuel Regulator set at 3.5 psi and use a low pres 0-15 psi gauge to set the fuel pressue.... No if or buts these carbs and lots of others need a pres regulator..... its a system...

good luck

 

[shawn sto]

I will check spark plugs next,im running a dui distrib,comp cam,34 something on weber carb....i do have the holley regulator set at 3.5 psi.....im pretty sure its the weber carb....I think its the needle valve rt.... above the float..but ran out of patience today to take back apart...i do want to say thanks for the info cause i can really use it on this...

 

[JR74CJ5]

Which jeep are we working on here? The ls1 motor or i6?

If i6 you said you changed the filter right? You still have the 1 in 2 out style filter?

And with the dui u can open spark plug gaps to .045 or like me .050.

 

[MN CJ7]

I will check spark plugs next,im running a dui distrib,comp cam,34 something on weber carb....i do have the holley regulator set at 3.5 psi.....im pretty sure its the weber carb....I think its the needle valve rt.... above the float..but ran out of patience today to take back apart...i do want to say thanks for the info cause i can really use it on this...

If i6 you said you changed the filter right? You still have the 1 in 2 out style filter?

And with the dui u can open spark plug gaps to .045 or like me .050.

Shawn,

Yes I hear you think its the Weber Carb... Webers usually need to be tweeked and jeted to match the Jeep CJ... CJ set up come stock to mod and will have diff needs.. I want you to have the igntiion and grounds tweeked before we evaluate where the carb is... Saves a few tweeks and I fell we get it close, then go thru everthing a few more times to get it correct...

Would not be suprise if you have to rejet maines & idles, play with your distributor curve and when you vac advance comes in and works... When you change the cam the vac levels change and usualy engine is set for higher rpms... I used a stock cam for that reason and vey pleased with my set up... So bear with me, take the pics, show us what you have...

I have got a few hundred of these going



The holly low pres regulator is DEAD HEAD REGULATOR.... it is not ment to work with a dual outlet fuel filter... I would not use a return line with a Holley Low Pres Regualor... There are bypass regs and dead head regs..... Ok to use the filter just plug the return part of fitler.. I use a clear filter so I can see its full of fuel and clean...


JeepHammer is a ignition god and has taught me there is no reason to go above .045" because it harder to control the higher voltages and the amperage goes down...

V= I x R...................or........... Voltage = Amp X Resistance

The plug gap acts like a capacitor and when the voltage builds to a level it can jump the plug gap. As the gap gets bigger any other ground can be used for the JUMP.. Capacitor will add capacitance or reactance to the equation..... So more gap means there will be less amperage and affects how long there spark is there... On our stock engines no reason to go above .045" and can hinder several things aove it...

Stock set up that have not done the TeamRush, premium wires to match, and the aux grounds should stay with the stock gap of .035"

hope that helps..


PS
Guys using the large .050 to .055" or larger spark plug gaps... I bet most did not even ground the head or use copper antiseize on the plug threads to help with the ignition circuit. Further HEI with the coils in the HEADs are known for arcking out from coil to internal mech advance weights and other internal metals... Reason many HEI systems have moved the coil outside the cap. JeepHammer has some excellent write ups on this... I am not a fan of the HEI.... the stock distributor or a remaned unit for $50 w/ lifetime warranty and $AMC 150 MSD box is a much better combo... actually the best combo you can get just about for this 4.5K engine/AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l or even the 8s that will got to 6k

 

[JR74CJ5]

JeepHammer is a ignition god and has taught me there is no reason to go above .045" because it harder to control the higher voltages and the amperage goes down...

V= I x R...................or........... Voltage = Amp X Resistance

The plug gap acts like a capacitor and when the voltage builds to a level it can jump the plug gap. As the gap gets bigger any other ground can be used for the JUMP.. Capacitor will add capacitance or reactance to the equation..... So more gap means there will be less amperage and affects how long there spark is there... On our stock engines no reason to go above .045" and can hinder several things aove it...

Stock set up that have not done the TeamRush, premium wires to match, and the aux grounds should stay with the stock gap of .035"

hope that helps..


PS
Guys using the large .050 to .055" or larger spark plug gaps... I bet most did not even ground the head or use copper antiseize on the plug threads to help with the ignition circuit. Further HEI with the coils in the HEADs are known for arcking out from coil to internal mech advance weights and other internal metals... Reason many HEI systems have moved the coil outside the cap. JeepHammer has some excellent write ups on this... I am not a fan of the HEI.... the stock distributor or a remaned unit for $50 w/ lifetime warranty and $AMC 150 MSD box is a much better combo... actually the best combo you can get just about for this 4.5K engine/AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l or even the 8s that will got to 6k

Thank man,

Would really appreciate some links to leisurely read on all this... I just went by the instructions for the Davis Unified Ignition Distributor.

I can tell you one thing, It is running a ton better than my old distributor with the Magnetic Pertronix upgrade even, though i think thats more to do with a screw hole being stripped out in my old dist where points and then pertronix were screwed down in place.

Either way, please do link, or maybe start a new thread with the Info you speak of if possible... I for one would love the reading... Jeep knowledge is extremely fun for me...

 

[MN CJ7]

Would really appreciate some links to leisurely read on all this... I just went by the instructions for the Davis Unified Ignition Distributor.

I can tell you one thing, It is running a ton better than my old distributor with the Magnetic Pertronix upgrade even, though i think thats more to do with a screw hole being stripped out in my old dist where points and then pertronix were screwed down in place.

Either way, please do link, or maybe start a new thread with the Info you speak of if possible... I for one would love the reading... Jeep knowledge is extremely fun for me...

I understand, we should not take this thread away from the poster..... I posted this weber link on another of the posters threads.. There are some excellent links on how to read spark plugs, how to simplify the jeep engine bay, igntion upgrades, there are some very good liinks and 4 hrs of reading from that thread alone.

Weber thread with lots of Jeep Information
www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/weber-34-dgec-carb-too-rich-jets-tune-jeep-4-2-258-a-631105

Prestolite does not have a lot of options and is not a very good distributor. So you did good to replace it... Common to use a newer Jeep Distributor or the HEI type...
Here is more info on compairson and upgrades

Jeep Ignition Upgrade Paths, DuraSpark vs Hei Compare by JeepHammer
WEB Link:
GM HEI vs. Motorcraft/DuraSpark Ignitions




More Reading.............................................

Jeep Aux Grounds by JeepHammer
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/been-reading-good-book-jeephammer-833631/

Making Battery Cables by JeepHammer
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/making-battery-starter-cables-correctly-691172/

Aux Grounds
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj-5-wont-idle-614545/

Punch List for CJ problems and good results
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj-5-wont-idle-614545/

Ignition Test Steps by JeepHammer
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/here-we-go-again-not-getting-spark-918041/



SOME OF JEEPHAMMER'S GROUNDING WRITE UP, HIS WORDS

DEDICATED ELECTRICAL "GROUNDS"...

Notice "Grounds" is in Quotes (" ")...
With DC (Direct Current) there is no such thing as 'Ground',
For our purposes here, everything is either 'POSITIVE' (+), 'NEGATIVE' (-) or Open, meaning connected to nothing.

SO!
When you read 'Ground', you should interpret that as a direct connection to battery negative, a DEDICATED 'GROUND'...
--------------------------------------------------------

"GROUNDS" 101

JEEP WAS THE CHEAPEST AMERICAN COMPANY I'VE EVER SEEN.
They simply didn't add dedicated 'Grounds' unless forced to,
And every circuit is 'Undersized', meaning you can't expand on it without out stripping the capacity of the circuit.


RULE #1.
IF THE JUICE GETS IN, IT MUST GET OUT FOR ANYTHING TO WORK.

RULE #2.
IF YOU WANT IT TO WORK, ADD A DEDICATED GROUND. (see 'RULE #1.')

RULE #3.
EVERY ELECTRON YOUR VEHICLE USES COMES FROM THE ALTERNATOR, NOT THE BATTERY!

RULE #4.
CRIMP CONNECTORS AND 'SCOTCH LOCKS' ARE NOT PROPER ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS!

RULE #5.
YOUR JEEP IS ABOUT 7 ELECTRICAL CIRCUITS FLYING IN CLOSE FORMATION, BUT NOT ACTUALLY CONNECTED UNTIL YOU PUT IN DEDICATED GROUND WIRES.

RULE #6.
WHERE RUST IS, ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS WILL NOT BE.
(If you don't have any rust , this doesn't apply to you!)

RULE #7.
STEEL IS A HORRIBLE CONDUCTOR OF ELECTRICITY.

RULE #8.
JEEP WAS CHEAP! THEY ONLY INSTALLED MINIMAL CIRCUITS TO MAKE THINGS WORK. IF YOU 'ADD ON' ANYTHING, YOU WILL HAVE TO PROVIDE MORE ELECTRICAL CURRENT TO MAKE IT WORK CORRECTLY.

RULE #9.
HEADLIGHTS ARE SACRED, ESPECIALLY LOW BEAMS, AND SHOULD BE TREATED AS SUCH TO KEEP YOU ALIVE!

RULE #10.
CIRCUIT PROTECTION (Breakers, Fuses, Fusible Links) KEEP YOUR VEHICLE FROM BURNING DOWN. USE THEM!
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