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Engine Carburetor issues

Engine Carburetor issues
R

Reynegade

Jeeper
Posts
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Location
Florida
Vehicle(s)
82 CJ7, 258 4.2L
My 82 CJ7 was having issues with starting after it sat for periods of time longer than a half hour. I had to continually pump the accelerator all the way to the floor in order to get it to start. I believed it to be an issue with the carburetor which I have replaced several times prior, so I did so again.
I replaced the carburetor on Monday and took it out at night for several hours and it ran fine. It also cranked immediately.
Tuesday I took it out again and that’s when things started to go wrong. After driving it around all day, it started to bog down on the way home every so often.
I didn’t take it out on Wednesday and then tried to crank it up on Thursday and it would not turn over. It’s now Saturday and I still cannot get it to turn over. Would love to hear any thoughts that anyone might have in order to fix this.
 
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What motor do you have. What carb are you using and when you say you replaced it what did you replace it with? A rebuilt original carb or some Chinese POS off Amazon?
 
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So crown is Chinese aftermarket. I'm willing to bet the issue is there. I would recommend upgrading to a MC 2100 two barrel.
 
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I ran a 2100 for 15 years before switching to EFI and frankly I'm never going back
 
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Manic Mechanic said:
I ran a 2100 for 15 years before switching to EFI and frankly I'm never going back
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Any carb issue is easily corrected by switching to EFI. I also vote for that approach. Quit worrying about cold starts, pumping the throttle, extreme angles, high altitude, etc. Let the computer deal with it.
 
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I say there are two ways to look at this.
Carb and EFI.
Carb, bolt on (with adaptor), inexpensive, extremely reliable.
EFI, needs modifications, expensive, subject to failure (but mostly reliable.)

The pros and cons are for you to hash out.
The MC2100 has been running reliably on millions of vehicles for many years and parts are available at any auto parts store.
The current EFI systems are very reliable but when something happens it MAY be a special order fix.
 
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CJ said:
I say there are two ways to look at this.
Carb and EFI.
Carb, bolt on (with adaptor), inexpensive, extremely reliable.
EFI, needs modifications, expensive, subject to failure (but mostly reliable.)

The pros and cons are for you to hash out.
The MC2100 has been running reliably on millions of vehicles for many years and parts are available at any auto parts store.
The current EFI systems are very reliable but when something happens it MAY be a special order fix.
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The biggest issue is the reason I switched. Ethanol in the gas destroys carbs and there gaskets since they are open atmosphere where EFI is sealed and pressurized. Even with driving mine regularly even in winter. I found it was causing problems and I had to keep screwing with it to keep it where I wanted it. Also off roasting was temperamental due to the ethanol.
 
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CJ - All good points. EFI is certainly more expensive in almost every case, and a good quality carb can be tuned and work well for most cases. Re-tuning for high altitude or cold environments can also be done when someone is versed enough to know how to do it. EFI just handles it for you. And a good EFI setup should last as long or even longer than even a good quality carb. 100K or more miles is easily achievable with a good EFI system. And to Manic's point, the ethanol in most gas has less effect on EFI setups with no accelerator pumps, float valves, plastic floats, or open air exposure.

If I had a weekend toy for camping, mudding, etc, and some other vehicle as my main daily driver, a good carb probably. Save the money for lockers and fixing trail damage, and easier dealing with issues away from home with basic hand tools.

Since mine is a daily driver in all weather conditions and Houston traffic, EFI was the way to go. Starts easy every time. Reliable for hot, cold, stop and go traffic, slightly better mileage (I believe), and even remote start from the fob for cold mornings so I can let it warm up a minute before heading out the door. Other times, just hit the push button start and go - no waiting.

All depends on your use and budget.
 
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Wait a minute. Before we get carried away, maybe the dang fuel pump needs attention. Sounds like a simple test is in order.
 
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KRUPP said:
Wait a minute. Before we get carried away, maybe the dang fuel pump needs attention. Sounds like a simple test is in order.
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Something simple - come on. Any excuse for a major upgrade or outrageous mod is always welcomed.😀
 
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I love spending other peoples money. Open your wallet let's see how deep it goes.

On a serious note try pooring a little gas into the carb (use a clean water bottle or cup so you can control it) see what it does and how it acts. It could be the fuel pump or vapor lock sense you mentioned it mostly happening when hot
 
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I did replace the fuel filter and the fuel pump less than a month ago, and I will try putting some fuel directly into the carburetor and see what happens from there
 
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Reynegade said:
I also disconnected the fuel line and and saw that fuel was definitely getting to the carburetor
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If your getting fuel to the carb and it's spraying when you crack the throttle then it's getting fuel. Id check to make sure you getting spark. What distributor are you running?
 
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