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Card in bicycle spoke sound when turning

Card in bicycle spoke sound when turning

cuban11182

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CORPUS CHRISTI
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84 CJ7: 258, T5, Dana 300, Holley 390, Nutter Bypass.
I took the jeep for a drive yesterday without the doors on and when turning in the parking garage I heard a clicking coming from the front when I turned right. From what I understand this is more than likely my front U-Joints? Is there anything else I should be looking at?
 
Good possibility you're correct. U-joints in the axle shafts might be going out.

I would check the spindle and hub (wheel) bearings just to make sure you had it all covered. Of course, to get to one you gotta go through the others!

I generally tear mine down every couple of years or so to clean and re-pack the bearings, depending on how much mud I end up in during hunting season.


Vote once a day, please!
 
Sounds good. Should I just replace all the seals and bearings at the same time? Are any of the bearings pressed on, or do they just slip on?
 
I would go back with new seals.

You can determine the condition of all the bearings when you take them out and clean the old grease out of them. Simplest way (and more expensive than cleaning and repacking a good used bearing) is to just replace all bearings & races. If you know you're going to replace all of them, save the old wheel bearing races. They should have the part numbers on them you can use when getting replacements. They'll also come in handy when you get ready to install the new races in the hub. Start the new race in the hole and then use the old one to set on top of the new one and tap it home with a hammer evenly around the edge.

Getting the old seals and bearing outer races out isn't a difficult job. You just have to not be weary of using some force. You'll (hopefully) have to use a drift and hammer to knock out the bearing's outer races from the inside of the hub. You do that from the left side to knock out the right race and the other way around to get the other one out. Confusing as Chinese arithmetic? It ain't bad. Just put the end of the drift through the hole the spindle goes through, rest it on the lip of the race and knock the :dung: out of it to push it out.

Better than writing a book, why don't you go to your local parts house and get a Haynes shop manual for your CJ. It'll spell it out and even has pictures. First thing I bought right after I got the Jeep. You'll wear it out, I promise! Sounds like a good weekend job if the weather's right.
 
I already have both the Chiltons and the FSM, but being at work I'm just trying to figure it out.

Thanks for the advice.
 
Sounds like you're pretty much prepared.

With the manuals, you'll have all the torque sequences / amounts and decent step by step directions if you need 'em.

Clean out, check and re-grease the axle lock out hubs while you have it all down. And look the brakes over. Ain't no use having to go right back in there for a brake job a few months down the road if you can repair / replace it now.
 
Sounds good. I might as well replace both the bearings while I'm in there. It looks like the only special tool I will need is the 2 1/16 socket to remove the axle nuts inside the hub. I'm still trying to figure out all the parts and part numbers I will need to get it done. To remove the spindle I'm going to use the puller we have a work, and if not I have a few 4lb and 5lb hammers at work that should work fine.

So far I've found that the inner and outer bearings are Timken Set45 and Set47. I need to figure out the rest of it, before I start ordering parts.
 
Never replace or service the wheel bearings without checking the torington bearing inside the spindle. These are frequently over looked. Mine were frozen in place, the bearings themselves were warn flat.
 
First-confirm the hubs are un-locked.
And your t'case is in 2HI.
Front axle shafts don't turn when you have done the above.
Are you sure your tire lugs ain't hit'n the leaf spring edges?
LG
 
Lumpy grits I realized this yesterday. I checked the lugs when I took off the wheel, and they were lose. Tightened them back up, and no more noise.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
 
Lumpy grits I realized this yesterday. I checked the lugs when I took off the wheel, and they were lose. Tightened them back up, and no more noise.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Get a torque wrench and torque your wheel lug-nuts to 85-90 ft/lbs of torque.
LG
 

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