Carter BBD Idle curb idle adjustment problem and other issues.

[Techlight]

I did drive it only a couple of blocks. Literally from 55th to 50th so hard to tell. As I think about it seemed like the wheel wasn't returning to center and I was putting it back. Again, two blocks and my memory isn't all that informative. Will have to wait to drive it a bit more to sort it out and post up here to ask for help haha.

I'm sure the fast idle was out. I didn't try too hard after I got it running properly initially because instead of fighting with it I just tried to get it "good enough" to take it in. We'll see how it comes back...he said he should be able to finish it by tomorrow.

I wasn't sure what to run the tires at. They were all sitting at 10 psi when I checked them. I took them up to about 32. Max pressure said 55psi cold so I'm open to suggestions on the tires. They are 31 10.5 15r A/T Bridgestone Dualers.

I'm pretty sure the springs are shot. Looks like someone has been dragging it up obstacles on the springs. One of the leaf packs is slightly bent on one edge. Nothing major, but at one end of one of the packs on the corner it's a little bent. Just enough really for me to know they were abused a bit. They're also both missing a few spring clips. Honestly I'm sure the 30 year old springs are tired, considering what I know about the PO.

But I just did all the bushings the whole way round and of course I'll double check all that work. I have a friend who owns a tire shop so that will be it's next stop for a front end inspection.

All this is jumping the gun really...I won't really know until I can drive it more. Just excited it will at least be on the road and I can drive it and sort out issues

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Run the tires at 25 psi-It will reduce the squirlyness, somewhat.
You should see what my springs look like--
LG

 

[Techlight]

Picked it up from the mechanic and he had the carb tuned well...so well I passed smog first shot! Very rare haha. The guys in the shop were like this is gonna be hard to pass, they always are. Oh really....haha

Needed a fan clutch and was overheating a bit when I got it back from mechanic. I went ahead and changed that and installed a fan shroud...no sense paying him to do it. But it's still running a bit hot. It's been through a couple hot cold cycles and only gets hot at extended idle times. It did manage to puke fluid out of the reservoir all over the smog shops floor, so I'm gonna have to get that sorted...

Still need to lower that tire pressure and do a ton of other things, like grease fittings, minor clutch adjustment, and diff fluid, etc. But man am I glad to be driving a Jeep again! It's nice to have it passed the state hoops so I can drive it every day. My son was super excited when I picked him up from school in it today. He was like, "The Jeep!!" and took of running to where we were parked.

 

[mtnwhlr]

Congrats on passing the smog test and getting it out on the road and just in time for summer.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Get a 'rod-out' done on the radiator. Have them flush the block. Do this ASAP--
There use to be a full radiator shop on 6th St. East, just North of PMD Blvb. Don't know if it's still there or not-
LG

 

[hagar]

If you still have the stock air cleaner, follow the two larger rubber hoses running from the air cleaner base that go down to the check valves, one check valve on each side if I recall.. Part of the Pulse Air system.
Those check valves get rusted from condensation in the exhaust at first start up.
The end result is the valve doesn't work properly, so exhaust is pumped up and into the air cleaner; this causes a very rough idle condition with the air cleaner lid installed; if you remove the lid, and the idle improves, it could be one or both check valves acting up. Usually, you will see red rust residue blown onto the underside of the lid.
Also, if the need arises, remove the hoses very gently from the two hose fittings on the air cleaner base; those can rust as well and break off very easily.
Just something to check if you're checked everything else and still have idle issues.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

If you still have the stock air cleaner, follow the two larger rubber hoses running from the air cleaner base that go down to the check valves, one check valve on each side if I recall.. Part of the Pulse Air system.
Those check valves get rusted from condensation in the exhaust at first start up.
The end result is the valve doesn't work properly, so exhaust is pumped up and into the air cleaner; this causes a very rough idle condition with the air cleaner lid installed; if you remove the lid, and the idle improves, it could be one or both check valves acting up. Usually, you will see red rust residue blown onto the underside of the lid.
Also, if the need arises, remove the hoses very gently from the two hose fittings on the air cleaner base; those can rust as well and break off very easily.
Just something to check if you're checked everything else and still have idle issues.

IF-this was the case. He would never had passed Ca. SMOG.
Allot of the rust comes from the metal piping used. I had to install small breather filters in my OEM air-filter housing and clean'em often.
LG