Caster angle

Caster angle

yellow85cj

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Location
Ft Worth,TX
Vehicle(s)
85 CJ7, 258,4.0 head, T177, D300, Dana 30, AMC 20, 3.54
Had the front end aligned.
I knew the caster would be off I am using OME 2.5" lift springs.

Angle is 3.8* and 3.6*.

Can find 2* shims and 4* shims. No 3* shims.

The 2* would put the angle at the bottom end of the spec (5*), the 4* would put the angle at a little over the top end (7*)

This assumes that the shims actually add the advertised angle increase. Have read here and there that the shims give less angle than advertised.

Any opinions on which to go with?
 
I'm surprised that the alignment shop did not set the caster angle to the proper setting. I think that I would start by going back and telling them to finish the job you paid them to do.
It seems that a little on the high side on caster is what works best on these CJ's. I set ours at 6° and it greatly improved handling, but I wish I had gone to 8°. I have never seen shims in odd numbered configurations, but that doesn't mean that they don't exist.
 
With CJ's-Best to go to the high side of the castor spec.
LG
 
mriplaybass -

The shop was doing a check for caster and toe. No charge for checking.

Told them I knew I needed to shim the caster just needed to know what the current angle was so that I could order shims.

Did ask what they would charge to install if I decided not to do myself. Came back with suggestion to take to a local 4 wheel shop. They didn't feel comfortable with doing it as there was concern with changing pinion angle. Said 4wd shop would be more familiar with all that might happen and how to correct.

I appreciate their honesty.

One thing that they did point out that I have never heard of. My right rear wheel has a .52* toe out. Said an axle shop would be the best place to question about need to fix or leave alone. Recommended the same shop that rebuilt the axles. They have the best reputation in town. When I get the front end corrected will stop by and talk to them.

Anyone heard of this before?

At any rate will order the 4* shims and put them in next week. And hope that the pinion angle change doesn't cause any vibrations.

Thanks for the opinions.

Another question, what does toe in/out being slight off spec cause other than tire wear?
 
What was the toe-in?
LG
 
You should be fine on the pinion angle. Your front driveshaft is longer and the front output on the tcase is lower, so it's more forgiving than the rear. Also, the front driveshaft only spins when in 4x4 or hubs are locked.
 
mriplaybass -

The shop was doing a check for caster and toe. No charge for checking.

Told them I knew I needed to shim the caster just needed to know what the current angle was so that I could order shims.

Did ask what they would charge to install if I decided not to do myself. Came back with suggestion to take to a local 4 wheel shop. They didn't feel comfortable with doing it as there was concern with changing pinion angle. Said 4wd shop would be more familiar with all that might happen and how to correct.

I appreciate their honesty.

One thing that they did point out that I have never heard of. My right rear wheel has a .52* toe out. Said an axle shop would be the best place to question about need to fix or leave alone. Recommended the same shop that rebuilt the axles. They have the best reputation in town. When I get the front end corrected will stop by and talk to them.

Anyone heard of this before?

At any rate will order the 4* shims and put them in next week. And hope that the pinion angle change doesn't cause any vibrations.

Thanks for the opinions.

Another question, what does toe in/out being slight off spec cause other than tire wear?
Tire wear is a biggie, but if you are in a toe out position, the vehicle will tend to feel like it is drifting. The greater the toe out, the greater the feel. You will also not "feel" the road as you would with proper toe in. The wandering will increase with speed.
 
Here's the numbers
 

Attachments

  • Alignment.jpg
    Alignment.jpg
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I would think that the toe in could be adjusted with the help of a tape measure and adjusting the front tie rod. 1/8"-3/16" toe in would work. Make sure that the front wheel bearings are not sloppy.
 
X2 on sloppy wheel bearings. You should check that rear wheel for this.
So-What was the total toe-in, in inches? That degree readout makes no sense to this old wrench turner.
Agree that a total toe-in between 1/8"-3/16" is fine. Especially with large tires.
Make sure your shims are steel, and not the cheap diecast :dung:. You may well need new axle U-bolts, and spring center bolt.
LG
 
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X2 on sloppy wheel bearings. You should check that rear wheel for this.
So-What was the total toe-in, in inches? That degree readout makes no sense to this old wrench turner.
Agree that a total toe-in between 1/8"-3/16" is fine. Especially with large tires.
Make sure your shims are steel, and not the cheap diecast :dung:. You may well need new axle U-bolts, and spring center bolt.
LG

Not a clue as to * to inches translation.

Shims are steel, ordered longer center bolts with the shims.

Everything is NEW. Just got the CJ back on the road after a lonnnnng frame off.

Not too sure on getting it right with a tape measure. :D
But might try as I will have the wheels off when the shims go in. At what point is the measurement taken? An 1/8 -3/16 is going to be different if measured from the discs' than it will be from the tire.

Any other thoughts on the right rear toe?
 
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Toe in is typical done with the tires on and is measured as the difference between the front of the rear of the tire (measured I at the center of the tire's width).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Not a clue as to * to inches translation.

Shims are steel, ordered longer center bolts with the shims.

Everything is NEW. Just got the CJ back on the road after a lonnnnng frame off.

Not too sure on getting it right with a tape measure. :D
But might try as I will have the wheels off when the shims go in. At what point is the measurement taken? An 1/8 -3/16 is going to be different if measured from the discs' than it will be from the tire.

Any other thoughts on the right rear toe?
Easiest way to set the toe yourself is to attach a length of straight material, angle iron works the best, to the outside of each tire. Then bungee the angles to each side making sure not to set the angle iron on any raised part of the tire, like raised lettering etc. Then with the wheels pointing straight forward, measure the distance behind the tire, then in front of the tire. Make sure that you measure from the same distance from the center of the tire to where you take your measurements, or your results will not be accurate. Turn your tie rod adjustment so that both the front and rear measurements are equal. Next, turn the adjuster while watching the tape measure in front of the tire until you reduce the measurement by the amount of toe in that you want (1/8", 3/16" etc.).
 

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