CJ5 wont start

[dougnc]

Newbie here! I'm guessing most of you are like me and think that CJ is the only REAL jeep and you don't bother waving to the pricks with there dime a dozen new wranglers? Or maybe I'm the only one..lol.
I'll try and keep this short. 1980 CJ5 , AMC 304 , T-176
Last time it ran good was two weeks ago when I was hot rodding around town pretty good. Went to the store a few days later and it was sputtering bad when going over 2k rpm, could barely keep it running on the way back.

SO when working on it last week I could start it and keep it running for maybe 20 seconds...sometimes it would idle kinda smooth, others it was rough as hell(but never really responded to throttle).

Has good Spark-I've replaced most ignition stuff in past year because of other problems(coil, ecm, distributor)
Has good gas. Newer pump, took line off at cab and it has good pressure.
Look down carb and it is squirting gas.

I decided to take carb off anyways and rebuild(motorcraft 2100). No change.
Checked vacuum at carb and it was bouncing around 12-14 while at a rough idle.

I had messed with turning the distributor a little in both directions and it didn't help any so today I decided to reset engine to TDC on #1 and put the distributor back in...now NOTHING it will sputter here and there when trying to start but not even close to running. The rotor was pointing right at #1 on the cap. Even took everything out and tried again. Oh, when I put a socket on the crank pulley to rotate the engine it tightened the bolt about 5 rotations before turning the entire engine.. should I be worried?

SO now it looks like I'm never going to be running in time for uwharrie ORV's last weekend of the season!!

Thanks for any help

 

[Torxhead]

A possibility would be that the ignition control module has gone bad. Symptoms at the beginning are that it gets warm to the touch and the is an ignition miss that just gets worse as it warms up, it will eventually quit running. Look for ooze coming out of the module. Another possibility would be the pick up coil in the distributor or the ignition coil.
Edit: I see you have replaced the coil and distributor, that is a start. The module is located behind the coolant overflow bottle btw.

 

[dougnc]

Thanks for the reply. When replacing that stuff I also replaced the ignition control module, called it an ECM in the initial post.. never sure what to call it. Three months ago it wouldn't shut off so I just put it gear and stalled it. Next day it wouldn't start, open the hood and all electrical was fried.. guess the ignition system was still on all night and melted everything. Had to replace all ignition stuff, new Mallory distributor set be back a few hundred too.
I just replaced the ignition control module with a cheap motorcraft and I hear they are notorious for going bad fast. That's on my long list of many solutions.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Replace the fuel filter.
Ck fuel pump psi at the carb, you want about 5psi.
Have you ck'd the color of the engine oil?
LG

 

[Torxhead]

If you think you refried that icm, I would suggest repositioning that icm ground. It is the black wire coming out of it and runs to the distributor, this is a poor setup. The best place to run the black wire from the icm would be to the battery negative. N.A.P.A. sells the best icms for the Motorcraft ignition, and are more expensive. An MSD ignition would be the best and even more expensive. If this is a fuel issue, other than low fuel pressure from the pump it could be an incorrectly set carb float.

 

[dougnc]

I was thinking about the float too, checked earlier and it was set a little low. I think the problem is in the carb. Pissed at myself for messing with the timing, at least it was running for a few seconds before.

 

[jpeck71]

Is he maybe 180 degrees out on the ignition now, causing it not to start at all? I didn't see it mentioned that he checked it but if i'm not mistaken it has to be TDC on the compression stroke, right?

 

[Hedgehog]

It could easily be the spark. When you pull a plug and see a nice strong spark it doesn't mean the spark is worth a darn when the plug is under compression. Turning the dist. a few degrees won't drastically harm the engines ability to start. Twisting it like a top is another story. ... naturally, if you don't have a timing light, get one.

Did you ever find out why your engine didn't shut off? Was it running strong, like normal or was it dieseling? If it was running strong the electricity to the ignition wasn't interrupted the way it should be when the ignition is off. Sounds like a serious problem to me.

 

[NCjeep]

Hey everyone, OP here. Site wouldn't let me log in and the administrator hasn't responded about a password update so I started a new account lol.
Checked compression today and it's 100psi dry and 105-110psi wet on all cylinders! Not sure how to read into that just yet. I'm going to set the engine to tdc #1 on compression one more time and see what happens tomorrow. Fuel line pressure was 5psi to the carb.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Did you have the throttle and choke, all the way open? Those are low readings.
Pour about 1oz of gas down the carb, and see if the engine wants to start.
LG