Cj7 frames.

[wondernad]

Found a CJ7 frame for sale on another site. Says it's rust free. What I am wondering is are all the frames the same or do they vary year to year? This would save me a lot of time and headache if it will work.

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[OEM1984CJ7]

From what I have experienced all the CJ7 frames are the same. The only difference I have noticed is the 1980 and up frames have different skid plate bolt hole locations than the 76-79 models and thats about it. Try putting a 1981 belly pan with a T-176 /Dana 300 on a 77 model and you will have problems. I could have got a one in a million frame but took two seperate frame measurements from other CJ's and they are different. Everything else is the same identical.

Hope this helps.

 

[PaRenegade]

I believe your right, with the exception of the front shock towers. 1982 and up use the wide track axles so the shocks are mounted different. Not sure if they all have the crossbar under the oil pan either.

 

[wondernad]

Shock towers are easily moved. But the skid plate holes are a differentsorry. Will the skid plate from an 82-up bolt to a T-150 /Dana 20 if it comes with the frame? Or will I need to modify the frame or skid plate.

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[Saddle Tramp]

Shock towers are easily moved. But the skid plate holes are a differentsorry. Will the skid plate from an 82-up bolt to a T-150 /Dana 20 if it comes with the frame? Or will I need to modify the frame or skid plate.

Just drill new holes as needed in the skid plate.

 

[Jimbos76cj]

The mounting holes from the frame to the belly pan are the same.. but the mounts built on the pan for the Transmission is different. as long as your using the pan that came with your motor and Transmission you will be ok. An like said previously the frame is the same except for the shock towers. 81 and older are short welded on ones.. 82-86 are taller bolt on's.

If your going to pick it up make sure the shock towers and motor/frame mounts are removed so you can look for rot. and also look really hard at where the rear shackle hangers atach to the frame.

I would also take a extra bolt that is the proper size for the front and rear shackle hagers and run it into the frame to make sure the threads are not stripped.

 

[wondernad]

Thanks for the help guys. Guess i'm going to have to go take the hour drive and look at it in person. Gonna take some measurements from mine before I go. Yeah Jimbo the reason i'm looking for another is that mine had bad rot in the passenger side shackle area. Also some rot on the drivers side rear forward spring mount. He's asking $180 for it so if it's really rust free then i'm golden.

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[Jimbos76cj]

they are never rust free.. Every rust free one Ive ever found has needed some type of repair.

 

[wondernad]

From what I have experienced all the CJ7 frames are the same. The only difference I have noticed is the 1980 and up frames have different skid plate bolt hole locations than the 76-79 models and thats about it. Try putting a 1981 belly pan with a T-176 /Dana 300 on a 77 model and you will have problems. I could have got a one in a million frame but took two seperate frame measurements from other CJ's and they are different. Everything else is the same identical.

Hope this helps.

This is 100% true. My frame was 14" from the spring perch to the first skid plate bolt hole. The 84 frame was only about 9.5".

That being said, I still picked up the frame. The guy dropped his price a little and I figure the worst case scenario I can cut the frame up and use it as patches. The frame is in good shape on the rear end but has a few repairs done to the front.

I am trying to decide what I am going to do. Anyone tried to merge 2 frames into one from just in front of the rear spring perches? I could swear that I have seen it done on one of those shows on spike that come on Sunday mornings. But that was a long time ago.

Any thoughts???

 

[Jimbos76cj]

http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f98/jimbos-1-2-build-thread-9967/index2.html

I cut and spliced The rear of a frame together then repaired the rotted out mounting bolts and rear cross member. See my build thread and let me know if I can answer any questions for ya.

 

[wondernad]

I don't think you see where I want to go with this. lets see if I can explain better. I now have 2 frames my original, which is rusted out by the rear spring shackle mounts and the spring perch on the drivers side rear also. The frame I bought is solid from the middle back, but has some repairs done to the front half. I am concerned about these repair strengths. So I want to try to graft the 2 frames together right in front of the spring frame mounts in order to keep my front 2/3 or so. Here's a pic to help.



I realize this may be possible, but not realistic. Just looking for input of weather or not it would be advantageous to do it this way.

 

[tarry99]

I don't think you see where I want to go with this. lets see if I can explain better. I now have 2 frames my original, which is rusted out by the rear spring shackle mounts and the spring perch on the drivers side rear also. The frame I bought is solid from the middle back, but has some repairs done to the front half. I am concerned about these repair strengths. So I want to try to graft the 2 frames together right in front of the spring frame mounts in order to keep my front 2/3 or so. Here's a pic to help.



I realize this may be possible, but not realistic. Just looking for input of weather or not it would be advantageous to do it this way.

Possible or Realistic only you can answer that question.........the frame would need a L shaped or U shaped 1/4"-5/16" plate bent to the OD of the existing frame.... Needs to be tight and probably extend 8-12" on either side of the split,the split should be cut at 45 degrees and welded back together prior to adding the external plates. Large holes along that reach to rosette the welding from your new plate directly to your existing frame. You may have to remove and re-attache suspension brackets .The strength will come from the right angle or the channel shape of the bent plate at the bottom. The new plate should also be cut at 45 degrees on each end to allow a longer area for welding.
You would need to have a nice flat area that you can work off to jig the two parts together correctly...........I use a large piece of plate on the floor and weld brackets to it to attache each part of the frame temporarily so it stays straight. Good Luck!

 

[Jimbos76cj]

Sorry for miss reading the point where you want to cut and splice. I've halfed a CJ5 frame in the same area. I drilled a few 1/4 inch holes in the frame prices that were being halfed together and rosette welded some angle stock into the top and bottom opposite corner to align the frame correctly when it was matched with the other half. I have a local metal shop that bent some 3/8 steel into angle and cut fish mouths into each side front and back then welded to the repair. Made a good solid repair.

 

[wondernad]

So basically there is no way to make the frame look factory at this point? There will have to be some extra support welded on in order for strength? Maybe I can cut the frame with a tongue and groove style cut, then Rosette weld supports to the inside?

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[tarry99]

So basically there is no way to make the frame look factory at this point? There will have to be some extra support welded on in order for strength? Maybe I can cut the frame with a tongue and groove style cut, then Rosette weld supports to the inside?

The problem you have is wherever you cut and re-weld you will have changed the metallurgy of the frame in that area by the tempering process that takes place during the welding process.........That area unless properly plated will just crack again and soon fail...........there is no other way to correct that short of doing a heat drawn process in a furnace large enough to heat the entire frame to a predesignated temperature and cool it down slowly but of course that is not a realistic approach hence the need to plate on both sides.

If the frame was an older C-channel design then you could get inside and do a channel inside of the old frame.

 

[DHugg]

they are never rust free.. Every rust free one Ive ever found has needed some type of repair.

Never say never.... say "hardly if ever". The 1980 CJ7 I brought home on 9 Nov 2009 has not a speck of rust on or IN the frame. And that goes for most of the body, exception being windshield frame.

From the rock scars on the bottom side, this was a western vehicle, and from the worn-out tierod ends the big 35's ran on a lot of rocky trails.

So if you are really picky about rust, like me, crawl the underside with a strong light or get a shop to lift it. A CARFAX might be of some help tracing the life of the Jeep. NV, NM, AZ, CA, UT are all generally dry.

I will likely rust out before my Jeep does.

 

[tarry99]

DHugg,

Nice to have a rust free Jeep.............I am amazed daily at what I see on these forum pages of the rusty vehicles these people put back together and I just have to stand up and applaud there desire and drive.
My 65 CJ I bought new here in California in 67 now has 27 k miles and not a spot of rust anywhere...........scratches , bumps and grinds yes.