CJ7 Hood - Crown or Omix?
Supertrunk
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CJ7 Hood - Crown or Omix?
- Thread starter Supertrunk
- Start date Start date:
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elwood blues
Always Off-Roading Jeeper
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- 1978 CJ7 4.2L Comp Cam & valve train, MC2100 carb, MSD ignition, Dana 30 front, T18 trans, Dana 20 txfr, AMC 20 rear.
Craigslist, or a local junkyard. Crown and Omix-Ada is not the highest quality stuff out there, get a quality used one and you'll be happier with both fit and quality long run 
Hedgehog
Always Off-Roading Jeeper
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-1951 Willys Wagon, 4 cylinder, "F" head, little rust, very close to stock
I agree, junk/salvage yard or Craigslist. My local jeep guy, has several of them, but shipping would be crazy money .... maybe not though. Even a hood with pealing paint is easy to strip ... big relatively flat sheet metal.
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- '85 CJ-7, 258/4.2L 6cyl. Bought new in 1985. Full cage, Warn 8274 winch, Ford 9" rear, front/rear Detroit Lockers w/4:88 R&P. T-5 tranny and 4:1 t'case. 33X12.50-15 BFG/AT, MSD ign, on board air---
You'd do better to make your own hood than to deal with Crown, Omix-ADA and their trash! 
Look for a fiberglass hood.
LG
Look for a fiberglass hood.
LG
PaRenegade
Crazy Sr. Respected Jeeper
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258, T-4, D300, trussed AMC20 w/Detroit & 1pc., Dana30 w/TrueTrac, 3.73:1; just finished a restomod
I would almost guarantee that crown or omix will be the same thing anyways. Like the tubs, theres only one manf. in the world, MD Juan in the Philippines. QC and materials are somewhat lacking so your best bet is to find a used factory hood and refurbish it.
Torxhead
Always Off-Roading Jeeper
I have purchased some of the replacement fenders, probably made by that MD Juan, and they really are tough to make fit even nearly close to oem. The junkyard oem ones I have seen are quite expensive though, at least in my part of the world. Some of the spot welds have even popped.
GARGOYLEJEEPER
Old Time Jeeper
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1981 CJ-7 Laredo No Engine T-176 D300 D30 NRG AMC 20 3.73 Warn M8274 Winch w/CJ mount,
1989 Chevy S-10 Tahoe punched .20 over - Jeep parts hauler and future CJ-7 4.3 V6 engine donor,
1972 Bayliner 15' Cascade Runabout Open Bow w/1980 Evenrude 85HP Outboard
These guy`s are right your best bet is 
atriot:factory used in all sorts of condition & price. Then you have companies like Classic Enterprises (Made IN USA), and 1 in Australia that will cost you in shipping. Then you have MD Juan, & Repli-Tub comes rusted from Philipines, and will cut you so you have to get Tetanus shot. Then comes Crown, followed by Parts 1 and at the bottom is Omix-Ada (aka Rugged Ridge-Outland) who`s QC is the worst in the biz.
But that's my 2 cents worth.atriot:
atriot:factory used in all sorts of condition & price. Then you have companies like Classic Enterprises (Made IN USA), and 1 in Australia that will cost you in shipping. Then you have MD Juan, & Repli-Tub comes rusted from Philipines, and will cut you so you have to get Tetanus shot. Then comes Crown, followed by Parts 1 and at the bottom is Omix-Ada (aka Rugged Ridge-Outland) who`s QC is the worst in the biz. But that's my 2 cents worth.
atriot:
Supertrunk
Jeeper
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- The Woodlands, Texas
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- 1981 Jeep CJ7, still a work in progress, but it is plated now!
Thanks so much for all the advice, I scored a "gently used" one, just some minor rust spots to deal with.
GARGOYLEJEEPER
Old Time Jeeper
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- Vehicle(s)
- 1948 CJ-2A 134L D25 D44 T-90 D18 Resto-Mod,
1981 CJ-7 Laredo No Engine T-176 D300 D30 NRG AMC 20 3.73 Warn M8274 Winch w/CJ mount,
1989 Chevy S-10 Tahoe punched .20 over - Jeep parts hauler and future CJ-7 4.3 V6 engine donor,
1972 Bayliner 15' Cascade Runabout Open Bow w/1980 Evenrude 85HP Outboard
Nice, use never-seeze on the mount threads, and always keep the hinge & latch lubed.