CJ7 Intake mani heat/ heater

[goatfeathers]

I am relatively new to my CJ7 , and need advice. My hot feet feels like I can't turn my heater completely off. It looks like the cable only controls a door for air movement. I looked at the heater hose routing and found that they come from the water pump to the heater core (without a shut off) then to the intake, then back to the block. I understand they go through the intake to warm it. I have swapped my carb out to a Motorcraft with an electric choke, and see no need for a warmed mani. Any reason why I can't take the hoses direct to the heater core and eliminate them from the intake, then put an inline on-off valve on the supply side of the heater so I can shut it off in the summer? I appreciate any help, THANKS

 

[Torxhead]

I once tried eliminating the coolant from going thru the intake manifold and ended up with a very rich fuel mixture from excessive heat, it ran pretty crappy also. You heater fan should be able to shut off and your vent controls should keep most of the hot air from being an issue.

 

[goatfeathers]

I took the hoses off the heater core and joined them together with a 5/8 to 3/4 hose adapter, taking it out of the loop. Just have to hook it up in winter, take loose in summer. At typical summer 98 degrees and 60% humidity, No more heat is needed. Thanks for your reply.

 

[ThisGuyUKnow]

I took the hoses off the heater core and joined them together with a 5/8 to 3/4 hose adapter, taking it out of the loop. Just have to hook it up in winter, take loose in summer. At typical summer 98 degrees and 60% humidity, No more heat is needed. Thanks for your reply.

Why dont you leave the hoses hooked to the core and put a valve you can open and close in the inlet hose. Then close it in the summer leaving a little crack in the valve so a small amount of coolant can continue to circulate through the core. If coolant sits in the core for part of the year, it can get nasty and gum up clogging the core.

Also fill out you vehicle profile so we know what year and specs you have. It will help you get better answers to tecnhical questions.

 

[goatfeathers]

I was afraid it would be like squeezing a water hose almost closed, at some point the amount getting through would negate the benefit of the restriction. I flushed the core and blew it out with compressed air, then capped it. Hopefully it will be ok next winter. Thanks.

 

[Flex BT]

I agree you should probably look to get to the root of your problem with your heater, I'm guessing the cable that turns the "heat" part of the air on/off might not be connected properly.

 

[sketchy]

I'm planning to get a bypass valve. You can get one for a Ford Ranger new for under $20 (but it's vacuum). This is part of the unified single-blower heat/AC unit I've been building in my head.

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