Build Thread Cj8 build from parts

Build Thread Cj8 build from parts
Re: CJ8 build from junk parts

Cut down the seat brackets on both sides so that the height and angle work with the new seats. Passenger side seat mount took a little thought, measuring, and test fitting before burning in the shortened pivoting legs and modified stops. After painting, can't even tell that they were cut. Wife told me that the seats didn't need to be even, nobody would notice. Bullpoopie, I'd notice!

Rollbar was interesting. Didn't have a Scrambler rollbar since I started the build with a junked CJ5 and a CJ7 . Ended up cutting down the CJ5 bar to an appropriate height to mount in the bed floor behind the seats then cut off the fenderwell leg mounting plate. From there, cut off the rear rollbar legs from the CJ7 bar and welded them to the CJ5 bar legs effectively extending them to Scrambler length. Welded mounting pads to the front and rear legs corresponding to stock reinforced mounting locations in the bed and painted it up all nice with Rustoleum black from a rattlecan. Main hoop sits slightly angled back like a CJ5 /7; It's plently strong and will help get this thing on the road soon. Plan to bend/build a full cage in the future.

Need to pull the tub off next week in order to shoot a few coats of epoxy primer and topcoat to the underside. From there I'd like to get the interior Line-X'd to seal up all the seams. Once those two things are done I can permanently install the interior parts and fire that "new" AMC 304 for the first time. Exterior bodywork and paint to follow. Daughter wants it done soon so that she can start driving it to school, work, and the the beach/water.

New pictures below.
 
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Re: CJ8 build from junk parts

Took the body off to paint the underside today. Propped it up in my open air workshop then went to town scuffing, wiping down, and shooting epoxy primer. Plan to topcoat the underside tomorrow with black paint then get it back up on the frame. Also want to have the interior shot with bedliner from the firewall to the tailgate in order to seal all the seams and protect the sheetmetal before I start hanging the interior parts and firing it up. Pictures of scuffed black factory applied primer and then of grey epoxy primer I shot today before black topcoat.

Have also worked on the front tube fenders. Yesterday cut and tacked in the top and side panels of the fenders and then took them off to burn it all in. Unfortunately, running low on Unimix gas and need to get bottle refilled so I have enough to finish. Ended up using the 16 ga steel for the fender tops and side panels. Will use lighter gauge, 22 or so, for the wheelwells.

More to follow.
 
Re: CJ8 build from junk parts

Scooter, exhaust pictures are for you. As mentioned in an earlier post, it's a 2 1/2" into 3" single muffler/tailpipe system that dumps behind the drivers side rear wheel. I have not started up the motor yet so I can't comment on how it sounds with the Summit welded muffler. I could have merged the pipes over the drivers side however, was concerned about exhaust heat radiating onto the fuel and brake lines running down along the inside of the drivers side frame rail and inteference between the exhaust system and the e-brake cables. I used Summit brand prebent exhaust pipe sections and cut/welded each section by hand. If you have any questions please ask.

Ty
 
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Wow Man! It is coming along great!!!:chug:
It's getting there. Would have liked to apply bedliner to the interior of the tub this week but was overcome by events and details. Wanted to do some finish welding inside the tub and seal up the firewall and bed seams before I spray in the bedliner but ran out of Unimix gas for the MIG. Took my bottle for refill (my own bottle, not a leased) where it was determined that the certification had expired and they wouldn't fill and they would have to send bottle away for hydrostatic testing (that could take weeks). Now need to apply for a leased bottle to get me back to burning steel. Guess that I'll use my own bottle to weld aluminum only and fill with pure argon.
Today, bent up some sheetmetal to close off the underside of the bedrails - not sure why Jeep didn't do this from the factory. Definately will help to strengthen the bedrail and clean up/finish the tub. Although I want this project done ASAP, I keep reminding myself that it's attention to detail and personalization that will distinguish my build from all the rest. Rebuilt pedal assembly, steering column, steering shaft, brake booster/master cylindergas pedal, fabricated adjustable clutch rod with heim ends, wiring harness and all the other insundry pieces and parts are standing by to be mounted - just need some time!
Have to rebuild the front end of my daughter's 2000 WJ tomorrow (CV joints/boots, ball joints, unit bearings etc) so won't get much done on the Scrambler again. Below is picture taken this morning - in the driveway waiting for some attention.
 
Okay, fixed the WJ - basically rebuilt/replaced all the axle steering components, ball joints, unit bearings, and CV boots and took out a little caster in my attempt to fix the death wobble. Also pulled rear axle apart to replace the differential bearings and clear up a terrible growling noise. After putting it all back together drove it 300 miles and so far so good on both the death wobble and the rear end noise.

Now I can focus my attention back to getting the Scrambler put together, fired up and on the road in the next few weeks. To that end, worked on the tub interior today, applied seam sealer from the firewall back to the tailgate opening, prepared the fab'd bedrail enclosures to be welded in, and taped up the firewall holes in preparation to lay down the bedliner tomorrow once I finish burning in the new sheetmetal parts. Photos below show bedrail mods I'm making to strengthen the rails and clean up the interior - the way Jeep should have done it. Will post more pictures tomorrow once all is in place and bedliner applied. Using DIY DupliColor Bed Armor bedliner and will apply with a gun in order to get uniform coverage and texture. Will let the bedliner dry overnight then start hanging parts Thursday - pedal assembly, gas pedal, steering column and steering shaft, power brake booster/master cylinder, seats, heater assembly, and dash. Also need to take windshield frame to get some glass installed. Maybe I can even get around to start wiring the Scrambler this weekend and be that much closer to starting it up.

Tube fenders are almost done minus the inner wheelwells - just doing finish grinding on the welds and then some paint.

More to follow...
 
Took a little longer to weld the bedrail panels in place this morning, so was only able to get one coat of the DupliColor bedliner down before I ran out of daylight. Liner didn't dry quite as fast in places as I hoped - obviously put too much down in the corners, seams, and firewall on the first coat. Laying that first coat down was fantistic and quite easy with the DupliColor air gun. Will hit it with a second coat in the morning once the sun comes up and warms the tub enough for painting.

Still would like to hang pedals, brakes, and steering components on the dried firewall tomorrow - as long as I'm not grinding, pounding, and running air tools I can work past 9:00 pm (have to respect the neighbors). It's all been fitted so install should go quickly.

Filled the newly mounted steering pump reservoir yesterday, came outside to leaking steering gear today. Guess I need to find another or install new seals.

Pictures of work done today - completed bedrails and coat of bedliner in the tub.
 
First coat of bedliner dried overnight and with morning sun. Sprayed second coat mid-morning after letting the body heat up a little and also warmed the bedliner material in the can to promote drying. Laided the second coat quickly then let it dry about 4 hours before turning to on hanging the controls and installing seats. Looks really nice and the pedals and steering went in quickly although I had to tweak the new clutch rod a little. The original one was excessively worn on both ends so I fab's one up out of 1/2" steel rod and a pair of heim joints. Had to turn down and thread both ends to 3/8"-24 and match the stock bends. Also drilled and tapped the heim joints for grease fittings. I have been doing that quite a bit - made greaseable spring and shackle bolts, shock bolts, and other bolts/pivots in the drivetrain. Figure that this Jeep is going to be in the family for a very long time and I want to make it easy to maintain and last. Photos of work completed today.

Not sure what I'm going to do with the dash, I have a new blank dash that came with the tub and also two old, bent, beat up dashes I could use. Windshield glass, finish grind the tube fenders and start laying out the wiring tomorrow - I'm just so happy to have the bedliner installed and bedrail mod done and looking good, all else is easy stuff.

More to follow...
 
Looking great thumbsup.png

When can I bring mine down and drop it off :D?
 
Looking great thumbsup.png

When can I bring mine down and drop it off :D?

Appreciate the encouragement. Just came in from standing in the driveway admiring my work today and planning out the effort for tomorrow.

What do you need done? Let me know.

Actually thought about doing this Jeep stuff full time but not sure if I would stay in the black after expenses, would need to rent a shop. I'm working out of my garage/driveway or under the shade tree in the back yard and have no room to build a shop at my house.
 
Little more work done on the Jeep today, ground down the welds on the tube fenders, installed brake lines from the prop valve up to the master cylinder, ordered a new power steering box, and took the windshield to the glass shop for new glass install. Also screwed down the Transmission tunnel cover and figured out what I am going to do with the front bumper. Making front bumper out of 2x4 rectangular tubing 42" in length, angle cut on ends to match rear bumper, a pair of shackle points, and a receiver hitch. Going to work on inner fenderwells later.

Night is still young, going to pull out the Painless Wiring harness to fiddle with tonight before I get hard into it tomorrow. Maybe I'll cut up the blank dash tomorrow too.

Pictures of tube fenders.
 
Wiring today, mapping out the cleanest way to run the wires throughout the Jeep. Also picked up two relays to use on the headlight circuit. Installed new stock type taillights although I'd really like something subtlely different than the rest. When I find it I'll know. Didn't like the way the Painless fuzebox/firewall connector fit through the firewall - there was a gap after bolting in. Made a rectangular spacer out of sheetmetal that fit the backside of the fuzebox tightly and filled in the gap of the firewall cutout. Of course, painted black before install so it would go unnoticed. Will use old dash until I figure out exactly how I want to configure, and cut out, the blank dash panel I got with the tub.

Daughter is tasked with cleaning up the grill and hood tomorrow before I hang the front lights...she doesn't like the rusty, banged up hood currently in place over the engine compartment. I think that it has character (and original, pealing Renegade decals) but kids today just don't understand. :D

Black paint as external color is growing on me. Have a gallon of flat desert tan that i was going to shoot but think that I may just stay with the blacked out theme for now and save the desert tan for my Dodge. Family wouldn't mind, they weren't keen on tan anyway. Also need to prime tube fenders tomorrow. All after church - may be a long day.

Will post pictures of wiring tomorrow once I get to actually running it and tying it in place.
 
Haven't done much this weekend except fab a front bumper, hook up the fuel tank fill hoses, and stare at the wiring. Raining like crazy all week and there just isn't enough room in the garage to work on the Scrambler. Hope that it will clear up soon.
 
Sprayed the inside tailgate, dash, and glovebox door with bedliner today. completed the engine compartment and tail light wiring yesterday and now working on the dash wiring now that the bedliner is dry. Tomorrow morning I'll strip the grill and paint the hood and grill. Also need to remove surface rust from the tube fenders and paint them too. Also want to finish wiring the dash - instrument cluster, light switch, and ignitiion switch. And I need to weld in some captured nuts for the dash panel, fool around with the heater box and ... Got a new steering box to replace the current box that is leaking like crazy.

Maybe this will be the weekend that I fire it up for the first time.
 
Been awhile since last post, really busy tying up loose ends on the Scrambler to get it on the road. This past weekend I fired up the AMC 304 for the first time since putting it together in July/August. Rough timing got it running and a quick hit with the timing light got the HEI distributor timed just right. Had a leak in the fuel line at the carb but other than that all was good to go for initial engine break-in at 2000 rpm. Only concern is oil pressure at idle I'm seeing 20 psi and up at speed its around 40 psi tops. I know - 10 psi at idle and 10 psi for each 1000 rpm is fine. I just expected higher after doing the oil passage mods. Maybe I need to tweak the bypass spring.

Other than that, have been trying to bleed the brakes. Installed all new brake components from the power brake booster/master cylinder, stainless lines, calipers, wheel cylinders, and hardware when I put the axles and chassis together. Although I though that I did a good job of bench bleeding the new master cylinder, when I popped the MS reservor cover off to top it off today I notice air bubbles floating up from the front brake circuit reservor orifice. Will play with it again tomorrow and perhaps will use my neighbor's vacuum bleeder. Also adding a vacuum canister to maintain brake vacuum - although it idles smoothly, showing a low 10.5" vacuum at idle.

Drove it around a little yesterday and again today - it rides and tracks better than any CJ I've ever ridden in, stock or modified, and infinately better than my lifted CJ5 . The YJ reverse shackle setup in the front and XJ rear springs seem to be the poopie so far. In the engine compartment, I was a little worried about my cam choice with the small AMC 304 motor (313 cu in, 9:1 CR, 1.94/1.5 chevy valves, port work etc) and Howards Cam (214/220 degree, .525/.540 lift, 110 LSA) but it seems to pull strong over the rpm range in the short period I've driven it.

Still need to paint it (Summit flat desert tan), install seat belts (tomorrow), fiddle with the windshield hinges to lay back the windshield more, paint and install YJ half doors and upper door skins, and install the new Bestop Supertop. Oh, and put in front turn signal light housings.

Daughter is excited to start driving "her" Jeep, driving lessons this weekend!

Love the stance, tell me 15/35-15 TSLs don't look good under this Scrambler!
 
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Already have my sights set on a Ford T-18 and pricing TeraLow 3.15 gears for the Dana 20 Transfer Case . If anyone has a lead on a TeraLow gear set please let me know. In case you haven't been following the thread, pictures of the junk pile I started the build with back in the Spring.
 
Installed seatbelts, front parking/directionals, and worked on the carb today. Noticed a little lean hestitation on acceleration yesterday and again this morning - had adjusted the accelerator pump linkage to come in quicker - it ran better on acceleration but still lean overall. Pulled the top plate on the Motorcraft carb today to discover #48 jets and the smallest pair I have in my Holley jet kit are #60s. Ended up drilling out the #48s to .054" (smallest bit that I have) to fatten up the mixture. Seems to run better and now doesn't have the hestitation. Would like to find a pair of #50 jets to try out at some point.

Drove around throughout the day in an attempt to work out the bugs but really didn't find any. Topped off the AeroTanks 35 gallon fuel tank - it actually holds about 37 gallons and when filled set the rear of the Scrambler down about 1.5" for a slightly nose high stance. Will likely remove a leaf from each of the front spring packs at some point to set it down alittle and even out the stance front to rear - have more than enough room to do this with the reverse shackles and tube fenders.

Daughter and I are going out for manual Transmission driving lessons this weekend if the weather holds out and I need to plan out the next project and get to work (pickup cab conversion of my '88 Dodge Ramcharger, 410 stroker motor, and off-road tube bed). Already have a rust-free cab that I have stripped and primed. Just need to sand interior sheetmetal again, lay down some more primer and then put down bedliner over the interior before rehanging the dash. After that I've got a CJ5 and GPW that need some loving!
 
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Been driving the Scrambler around town and teaching my daughter how to drive her Jeep. Installed the top this past week, still working on the YJ half doors and canvas uppers and installing the door latch pin correctly in the door jam. Had a chance to "wheel" the Scrambler a little today on a closed obstacle course out behind a local Jeep dealership in Suffolk, VA - Starr Motors. Big thank you to them for letting us play. Picture is of me cresting a steep hill. Scrambler performed great considering 3.55 gears, T-150 tranny, and old 36" Buckshot Radial tires. Rebuilt AMC 304 with stock intake and Mustang motorcraft 2bbl carb didn't miss a beat, even on steepest hillclimbs and sidehills. Pulled great from low engine speeds. Still looking for a Ford T-18 and a deal on a Dana 20 TeraLow gearset though to make it crawl better.
 

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