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Clocking

Clocking

driver007

Senior Jeeper
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Location
Canada
Vehicle(s)
1981 cj5 304 v8, 300 Dana,model 30 Dana and model 20 AMC rear end
Ok I give can anyone tell me what clocking is in regards to transfer cases?
 
Not an expert, but I believe clocking the Transfer Case means rotating it or lining up the bolt holes in order to change the angle of your drive shafts.

One might have to clock the Transfer Case when adding a suspension lift, or changing transmissions.

Hopefully someone will correct me if I'm wrong.
 
Correct, clocking refers to rotating one item as it mounts to another. I was just looking at my Dana 20 and there is only one way to bolt it up. You'd generally have a round mounting plate in order to be able to clock it. On some Transmission and tcases you might be able to split the case somewhere and clock it there.
 
I think the term came around so we had a standard way of saying rotate it counter clock wise or clockwise, that is so much easier than right or left when you are under there.
You hear it used a lot for transfer cases and axles. but as stated it refers to rotating the device one way or the other to make sure your clearances are maintained or so that angles are geometrically correct so you do not break an ujoint or such
 
Clocking a TCase is to mount it a different angle than the factory. One end of the TCase hangs lower than the other. sometimes the owner will clock the TCase to improve ground clearance.
IMG_0623.webp
And here is the after shot
IMG_0632.webp
Usually you need to buy a clocking ring to do this but some TCase adapters allow for clocking.
Dana%20300%20Clocking%20Ring%20Small.jpg

You may have to modify the shift levers. After market TCases usually have the ability to be clocked to one of several locations. You can also get carried away.
D300clockedflat004.webp
This guy bought a clocking ring for his Dana 300 and admitted it was too much. Now his TCase is higher than the mount. Never clock a Jeep TCase if you plan on keeping the stock skid plate.
 
What Dave said.:chug: It's mainly for more ground clearance.
 
Dave is right on but you don't have to always get rid of the plate you have (there is always a redneck way:D). It's part of the reason I went to Novak with my T-18 vs the other guys. The adapter has holes around allowing you to clock in different levels. Although you can just purchase a clocking ring on its own ($100?)

I clocked mine one bolt hole over and gained about 1.5" or more clearance without having to do anything to shifter. The next bolt hole would require a little cutting or heating shifter handle and further up is flat (mostly hard core guys). It typically requires beating the floor up or cutting it out near the pasengers feet, unless you have a buggy.

What I did was cut the low part that hangs down from the skid plate where the transfer usually hangs on the CJ. I then welded a flat plate up in place for the transfer to sit on. That is where I picked up clearance. It was like a free mod with the T-18 .

I don't want to cut my floor up but I may go a little higher at some point. Will just pick up a flat piece of steel and space it off the frame.
 
Cloc
. You can also get carried away.
D300clockedflat004.webp
This guy bought a clocking ring for his Dana 300 and admitted it was too much. Now his TCase is higher than the mount. Never clock a Jeep TCase if you plan on keeping the stock skid plate.

Does anybody know?

Do you have to go this extreme to flat tow? Or will 'one-bolt' clocking work to splash the gear oil up on the rear output without the Transmission shaft turning from the engine?
 
Does anybody know?

Do you have to go this extreme to flat tow? Or will 'one-bolt' clocking work to splash the gear oil up on the rear output without the Transmission shaft turning from the engine?

Clocking is usually done for clearance reasons but as you stated if you are flat towing clocking can help lubrication.
I would never clock just for the sake of flat towing.
I really think if you are going to flat tow very far at all you should remove the rear drive shaft.
Check out this thread: http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f2/front-hubs-towing-3458/
 
Thanks, I've read that one [lurker here], but THIS post hit the nail on the head. You're advice Dave - is always right on the money. I'm just lazy. If my case is already clocked enough then I don't want to disconnect the rear every time I tow. See, now the whole story comes out...

I love the graphic btw. It explained a lot.

But If you're locking the front hubs to tow, than it seems like extra drag. BUT if my tc is clocked enough, then the oil with splash enough and I won't have to do anything but hook it to the motorhome!

IMG_6176.webp
 
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