clutch replacement which size?

clutch replacement which size?

mscottb

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Location
northport,maine
Vehicle(s)
1980 cj5 258 2bbl 30 in the front and 20 in the rear.
2005 vulcan nomad 1600, 2004 6.7 diesel f-250 super
I have to replace a burned clutch. morris and other parts outlets list 2 sizes, 10.5 and 11in which one to use they are bouth listed for the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l
is there a way to find out which one I have other than having it apart and measuring???
:confused:
 
If memory serves the flywheel will bolt both, not at the same time.:D

two sets of holes.

as far as what you have, you will have to drop something.
 
well mine is a 10.5 in and looks in very good shape. The flywheel had some scoring from a previous clutch, I guess the PO did a clutch swap but didnt smooth the fly wheel. When plowing the other day I smoked the clutch, took it all apart didnt seem too bad other than the fly wheel, thinking about just changing the friction disk and the throw out bearing. keep the same pressure plate which looks very good. any thoughts ???
 
Jmo but if you've dropped everything to get it out spend the $100 and replace everything to many times on one of my trucks I skipped replacing something just to have it be the next thing to fail. Agin just my $.02
 
:agree: and get your Flywheel turned.
 
A "rebuilt" pressure plate has been reground and in some cases it will directly affect the amount of miles you get from a clutch. buy a new clutch, the hard part is over when the tranny is on the ground.:cool:
 
I hear you guys. What I have done is regrind the flywheel, resurface the pressure plat and replace the friction disk and throw-out bearing. while down there I will replace all the u-joints because of unknown maint. (they weren't greased ). Oh and also I will need to replace the pinon bearing. reading on other post that sounds like a fun trip. and then the rear main seal is leaking. thats for another day though. oh what fun it is to have an old cj...:)
 
I hear you guys. What I have done is regrind the flywheel, resurface the pressure plat and replace the friction disk and throw-out bearing. while down there I will replace all the u-joints because of unknown maint. (they weren't greased ). Oh and also I will need to replace the pinon bearing. reading on other post that sounds like a fun trip. and then the rear main seal is leaking. thats for another day though. oh what fun it is to have an old cj...:)


:)Mscottb,

On the Clutch ............get a new pilot bushing that goes in the end of the crankshaft.

On your Pinion Bearing that gets pushed out from the inside so the carrier will have to come out.........(pay attention to the shims between the case & carrier and also on the pinion shaft, don't lose, mix or damage them they have to go back in the same locations) , These shims on the Pinion shaft and bearing set the proper clearance to the ring gear. THe shims on the carrier set the ring gear clearance, in some case's the shims on the carrier are captured behind the bearing.
Also you will need a new Pinion Seal and a new nut.
Changing the bearing races inside those require special tools to drive them in / out.......

:D:D:D:D
 
:)Mscottb,

On the Clutch ............get a new pilot bushing that goes in the end of the crankshaft.

On your Pinion Bearing that gets pushed out from the inside so the carrier will have to come out.........(pay attention to the shims between the case & carrier and also on the pinion shaft, don't lose, mix or damage them they have to go back in the same locations) , These shims on the Pinion shaft and bearing set the proper clearance to the ring gear. THe shims on the carrier set the ring gear clearance, in some case's the shims on the carrier are captured behind the bearing.
Also you will need a new Pinion Seal and a new nut.
Changing the bearing races inside those require special tools to drive them in / out.......

:D:D:D:D
soory I ment to say pinon bearing SEAL, which is alot easier to replace than the bearing I bet;)
thanks
 
soory I ment to say pinon bearing SEAL, which is alot easier to replace than the bearing I bet;)
thanks


:)Well your right about that .............the seal is much easier to get at. Lots of times that Pinion Nut has become loose over the years which then knocks the seal out.........Pay attention to the Pinion Yoke as it also takes on wear at the spline when it has been loose for some time. Also on the yoke if the area that the seal wipes on has a goove or is rough change it.

I make it a habit when I have a Pinion leak to change the yoke, seal and get a new lock nut everytime. Just my opinion!

:D:D:D:D
 
ok I changed the pinon seal not to bad of a job, got the clutch installed and now just waiting to get some help lifting the transmision/tranfercase up and installed. tried to to it with a floor jack and a come-along (thru the hole in the jeep floorboard) didn't work to well. just not as strong as I used to be:mad:
anyway should have some help tonight. we'll see how it goes
oh I also replaced the rear drive-shaft u-joints. not a fun job if your vise doesn't open enough to get two sockets along with the yoke in. still did it with progressively larger bolts as the pusher and a large cresant wrench for the receiver.
got to love working on an old cj:)
 
If you can borrow or rent a ATV jack they work great for trans/transfer
installation.Just place some wood blocks as needed to level gearboxes and raise into place. I have used this method myself.

mike
 
Ok well I got it in with the help of a come-along and a jack with a strong friend
went right in slick everything is all reattached and the clutch appears to work, but the linkage is very loose. looked at the bell crank and the hole where the push rods hook into are all worn into oval shapes. so I now know what the next project is. repair replace the linkage.
 
well I replaced the linkage but the clutch pedal is still half the ht of the brake pedal and does not disengage the cluth all the way, hard to shift into gear when engine is running. the rod that attaches to the fork lever is adj all the way out. no more adj is possible. are there differant lenghts of these rods for differant year??? my chassis is an 80 CJ5 . it looks like someone welded the bolt on the end that attaches to the bell crank. anyone know the lenght of one of these rods???? Please help Snow is comming and this is the plow vehicle
 
well I replaced the linkage but the clutch pedal is still half the ht of the brake pedal and does not disengage the cluth all the way, hard to shift into gear when engine is running. the rod that attaches to the fork lever is adj all the way out. no more adj is possible. are there differant lenghts of these rods for differant year??? my chassis is an 80 CJ5 . it looks like someone welded the bolt on the end that attaches to the bell crank. anyone know the lenght of one of these rods???? Please help Snow is comming and this is the plow vehicle

:)Mscott:

Not sure whats changed or what your setup looks like as there could be several mods to it which could effect all of the above.
The bottom line is this: You need enough travel to get the clutch to release.........so how do you get there? Obviously longer overall linkage. On a 1980 there is normally a long shaft coming off the pedal that goes through the floor and attaches to one end of the bellcrank..........and on the other end there normally is an adjustable rod that goes to the clutch fork.
If you ground your flywheel and used a reman clutch cover that could be the issue...........sometimes it's just using the correct length throwout bearing. Sometimes it's a body lift.
Sometimes it's wear in all the linkage that adds to the problem.
But again the simple fix is to add lenth to your pedal travel by any of the above means..........and it will work. The adjustable shaft is a good place to start.
:D:D:D:D
 
well I replaced the linkage but the clutch pedal is still half the ht of the brake pedal and does not disengage the cluth all the way, hard to shift into gear when engine is running. the rod that attaches to the fork lever is adj all the way out. no more adj is possible. are there differant lenghts of these rods for differant year??? my chassis is an 80 CJ5 . it looks like someone welded the bolt on the end that attaches to the bell crank. anyone know the lenght of one of these rods???? Please help Snow is comming and this is the plow vehicle
There is a ball on a pedestal inside the bellhousing that the clutch fork pivots on. Is it possible that that ball got lost or fell out during installation? That would probably cause the condition that you described. Also is it possible that you didn't get the tabs on the clutch fork into the grooved part of the throwout bearing? I don't even know if it is possible, but I'm throwing out suggestions as they come to me. You should be able to check both of those out without pulling everything apart again by pulling the boot off the bellhousing and looking in there with a mirror.
 
Last edited:
There is a ball on a pedestal inside the bellhousing that the clutch fork pivots on. Is it possible that that ball got lost or fell out during installation? That would probably cause the condition that you described. Also is it possible that you didn't get the tabs on the clutch fork into the grooved part of the throwout bearing? I don't even know if it is possible, but I'm throwing out suggestions as they come to me. You should be able to check both of those out without pulling everything apart again by pulling the boot off the bellhousing and looking in there with a mirror.


Rollie, I did check all that you suggested and the ball is in and the groves are fine. I did extend the push rod 1 1/4 inch's and that seemed to make all the diff
the is a home made bracket on the bell housing for the bell crank and I feel that this is the culprit.
Any the clutch works fine now and is all adj. for 1" freeplay
Thanks again to all who responded

adding up to a new jeep one part at a time!:)
 

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