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Clutch Set up for 225 V6 to 1979 CJ7 T150 Transmission

Clutch Set up for 225 V6 to 1979 CJ7 T150 Transmission

salemvajim

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Location
VA
Vehicle(s)
1979 CJ7 1968 225 V6 Eng,
1979 MGB
We have a new to us 79 CJ7 . The vehicle had 1968 225 V6 installed, from an old Comando, originally with headers. Some one crudely converted the clutch linkage to hydralic with undersized master cylinder and slave on a home made bracket with poor geometry. I think the original factory linkage was removed and converted to hydralic to make space for the headers. The headers are gone.

We replaced the hydralics master and slave in November by tracking down the part number. 1979 never had hydralic clutch. My son drives the jeep regularly to school and the badly installed hydralic set up has failed already. It took a lot of pressure on the pedal to engage.

We have a good tranmission guy helping us fix this right. A lot of things were home made on this clutch set up. The combination of the V6 and the T-150 in a CJ is a fairly common if not popular swap. Can anyone tell me what set up is used for the clutch linkage on a V6 conversion ie. bell housing etc. What clucht can be used.

The clutch is an old three finger style which takes a lot of force to engage. My guess is the fork was adapted with a welded extension. We are wondering if a new diaphram clutch would make sense? Less force.

Right now I am thinking the best way to go would be to go back to manual linkage but we think the inside bracket may have to tie into a boss or receiver on the engine block that wouldnt be there on a V6 instead of the factory engine? I would be grateful for any advice or direction. Thanks.
 
The clutch pedal to fork linkage system in a CJ has never really been good. Frame twist will always be a problem with any mechanical system but the cable system of the 1972 + (I think it changed sometime in 1973 but not sure) was the total craps. The system had a cable with a ball crushed to each end but the pressure required to actuate the clutch would cause the ball to pull off leaving you with no clutch at all; I even had the bracket on the firewall that the cable went through rip from the wall due to the pressure leaving me stranded. (Out in the middle of nowhere Montana I might add. I had to start the jeep in 1st then move up the gears without the clutch.)

Novak sells a conversion kit that may help you out. I’ve not done the conversion myself but I’m sure if you give them a call they can set you up.

http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/clutch/kit_hcr3.htm
 
We have a new to us 79 CJ7 . The vehicle had 1968 225 V6 installed, from an old Comando, originally with headers. Some one crudely converted the clutch linkage to hydralic with undersized master cylinder and slave on a home made bracket with poor geometry. I think the original factory linkage was removed and converted to hydralic to make space for the headers. The headers are gone.

We replaced the hydralics master and slave in November by tracking down the part number. 1979 never had hydralic clutch. My son drives the jeep regularly to school and the badly installed hydralic set up has failed already. It took a lot of pressure on the pedal to engage.

We have a good tranmission guy helping us fix this right. A lot of things were home made on this clutch set up. The combination of the V6 and the T-150 in a CJ is a fairly common if not popular swap. Can anyone tell me what set up is used for the clutch linkage on a V6 conversion ie. bell housing etc. What clucht can be used.

The clutch is an old three finger style which takes a lot of force to engage. My guess is the fork was adapted with a welded extension. We are wondering if a new diaphram clutch would make sense? Less force.

Right now I am thinking the best way to go would be to go back to manual linkage but we think the inside bracket may have to tie into a boss or receiver on the engine block that wouldnt be there on a V6 instead of the factory engine? I would be grateful for any advice or direction. Thanks.

:)As far as the Hydraulic clutch and the related Master & slave cylinder is concerned it is all about matching the correct Bore size's with each other and at the same time getting the correct pedal ratio at the Swing Pedals........... The mounting at the Bell Housing is also important , but will get into that later...........Once all the correct sizes are in place along with the proper ratio's the system will work correctly with an average amount of force to apply.............Pictures of what you have along with the bore sizes of both will allow us to correct your problem.......

Novak does have a nice slave setup that bolts to a standard Buick Bell housing, but without doing the homework on the rest of the components that will not fix your problem totally...............

Centerforce makes a clutch for those......you can try Novak, Advanced Adaptors, and Summit & Jegs......but again your 3 finger Pressure plate may be fine........
it is all about getting the proper mechanical ratio's in place for your clutch to work smoothly!

:D:D:D:D
 
I got to the Novaks web site and I think it answers a loty of questions really solves my problems. I wish the guy who owned it before had heard about it. Thanks.
 
Thanks. I think novaks is going to have the solution. once the old homemade jury rig juck is stripped out There is a bell housing and a pedal. All of theold linkage and brackets are removed. novak hydralic application really looks clean and solid.It is about proper alignment and the correct ratios/leverage. Thanks for you help.
 

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