Clutch/ tranny looking for ideas

Clutch/ tranny looking for ideas

Duhwhat

Active Jeeper
Posts
269
Media
16
Thanks
0
Location
Madison, Ms
Vehicle(s)
1986 CJ7 2.5L 4 cylinder
T-4, Dana 300, AMC 20 rear end
So... Got through with the rebuild and everything was working. Drove it about 400 miles and parked it to attach the hard doors and work on them awhile. After it sat for a month or so, I get in it one day to crank it to let it run a little while. Put in the clutch and turn it over and it lunges forward like the clutch isn't in. I take it out of gear and crank it and it won't go in any forward gear and grinds only when I try reverse.

So I talk to friends who know more about mechanics than I do and I come to the conclusion I have a bad slave cylinder. (I had noticed a leak from behind the bell housing cover and thought it was oil from the rear oil pan seal) Ah Hah! this must be my problem and I will kill two birds with one stone...

Well, I just finished replacing the slave cylinder and bled it out, but I still can't get it in gear. It feels like the fork is being engaged, but I am not sure. I will take the bell housing cover off tomorrow and see if I can tell anything. I just hate to take the starter off again.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

:notworthy:
 
Last edited:
Crickets...

Maybe I need to ask this differently.

What could make a hydraulic clutch work one day and not the next while sitting up for 45 days?

Master Cylinder on one end slave(new) on the other solid new brake line in between.

Will it benefit me to take the inspection cover off the bell housing and watch it while someone presses in the clutch?

Would my best bet be to just replace the Master cylinder?

I don't know if it is normal that I can't get a grind out of any forward gear, but I can put it in gear with the motor off. Does that isolate the problem to the clutch?


Other info
New clutch and resurfaced pressure plate.
 
I would try rebleeding the master cylinder and the slave cylinder again. When I put a hydraulic clutch in my Jeep I had to bleed it several times to finally get it to work.
 
I would try rebleeding the master cylinder and the slave cylinder again. When I put a hydraulic clutch in my Jeep I had to bleed it several times to finally get it to work.


I will try that, thanks.

I just finished rebuilding the master cylinder and bleeding it, but still doesn't work.

I hate to take the starter off and 'other stuff' to look inside the bell housing if I don't have to. This has me real bum fuzzeled. Basically everything is new or rebuilt and it was working for 400 miles and just quit while it was sitting.

Now I understand why there was a thread about never finishing.

I wish someone would offer an opinion about it feeling like it hits a wall trying to go in any forward gear, but grinds in reverse. Would that be normal for an inoperative clutch or is it possible a Transmission problem? Factor in it worked fine and quit working sitting still.

I am just thinking it has to be a fluid problem with the clutch not moving the fork far enough. sigh, nothing is easy with each new problem.
 
Last edited:
That's the Jeep thing. If it' not one thing it's another! Especially with these older ones.:( That's also the challenge to keep it interesting.
 
I think it's a fluid problem / master or slave cyl problem. Your clutch and tranny should be fine, 45 days is not a long sitting time i think.

Now as to what to do to fix it... :confused::confused::confused:

Its the external slave cyl pushing or pulling the clutch fork right?

Not an internal hydraulic throwout bearing right?
 
I think it's a fluid problem / master or slave cyl problem. Your clutch and tranny should be fine, 45 days is not a long sitting time i think.

Now as to what to do to fix it... :confused::confused::confused:

Its the external slave cyl pushing or pulling the clutch fork right?

Not an internal hydraulic throwout bearing right?

Pushing the fork. I am going to take the slave cylinder off with the hydraulic line attached to see if I am getting any pressure/push. If not, I will try taking the inspection plate off the bell housing to see if I have any loose parts.

I really appreciate your feedback. I know there are some really knowledgeable people here and am sometimes disappointed when nobody has any thoughts.

That said, I am new to the jeep repair world and don't yet feel qualified to answer most peoples questions.
 
I'm pretty new myself.

Most of my answers include: "But I'm no expert wait for other advice" at the end of them :cool:

I just hate seeing a no answer thread floating... Like trying my best to help.

:chug:

Let me know what you find out after your test...

I suspect a faulty master or slave...

BE CAREFUL that you don't drop the fork off the ball in there... That's a PITA...

~ JR
 
I'm pretty new myself.

Most of my answers include: "But I'm no expert wait for other advice" at the end of them :cool:

I just hate seeing a no answer thread floating... Like trying my best to help.

:chug:

Let me know what you find out after your test...

I suspect a faulty master or slave...

BE CAREFUL that you don't drop the fork off the ball in there... That's a PITA...

~ JR


I try to always follow up with a resolution because I find so many threads when I am searching for answers that just stop mid way and all you know is that what ever they did would probably help you.

I will find out tomorrow hopefully
 
OK, bled the clutch again and it still won't shift into a forward gear... feels like a hard stop when I try. Grinds trying to go into reverse.

Removed the slave cylinder with the clutch line in tack and it has pressure when the clutch is depressed..

Reinstalled the slave cylinder and removed the bell housing cover and peeked around the fly wheel while the clutch was pressed and the fork is moving an inch or more.

With the motor off, it will go into first , second and reverse, but not third and I don't thing fourth but am not totally sure.

This is a T-4 .

What do I try next for diagnostics?

I have a reman clutch and resurfaced fly wheel. New throw out bearing and pilot bearing. It worked fine for 400 miles and I assume that means the clutch is in right.

I will make sure the tranny has fluid next, but after that I am void of ideas.

Thanks in advance for any help you may offer.
 
Turns out the clutch was seized to the pressure plate. No obvious reason except maybe the brake fluid from the leaking slave cylinder created a bond.

Solution was to put it in gear and crank it. Did it in reverse and then in 2nd and it gave a snap sound and all is well.

Ya just never know. Glad I didn't have to drop the tranny.
 
I am very interested in what you find to be the problem, I am going through the same thing with my CJ7 with a T-5 Transmission . The first thing I thought of was the clutch went out, but I am far from a touble shooting mechanic. Please keep me posted on your progress...
 
Hey Duh... I'd check the fluid levels while you're at it...

Glad you got it figured out though :cool:
 
Hey Duh... I'd check the fluid levels while you're at it...

Glad you got it figured out though :cool:


Splain?

I do want to check the Transmission fluid level because I never got around to that during the restore, but I don't know what you mean. The hydraulic clutch rez is full.

How are you equating fluid levels with a seized clutch disk?

Thanks
 
I am very interested in what you find to be the problem, I am going through the same thing with my CJ7 with a T-5 Transmission . The first thing I thought of was the clutch went out, but I am far from a touble shooting mechanic. Please keep me posted on your progress...

You have to factor into your situation that I have recently done a frame off restoration and installed a new clutch disk, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, pressure plate and resurfaced the flywheel.

Add to that I had driven it 400 miles without an issue and only after it sat for 45 days did I have a problem.

If you have old parts, my solution probably won't help you. Totally different situation.
 
Tranny fluid :cool: just because if u havent done it, its a good idea to... :D

No equating... Though if fluid level too low in tranny maybe it got too hot and somehow helped "fuse" the clitch :confused: but thats just a shot in the dark to connect them...:cool:

I was more worried about fluid level earlier, before you found the solution, but couldnt hurt to be safe ;)
:chug:
 
Tranny fluid :cool: just because if u havent done it, its a good idea to... :D

No equating... Though if fluid level too low in tranny maybe it got too hot and somehow helped "fuse" the clitch :confused: but thats just a shot in the dark to connect them...:cool:

I was more worried about fluid level earlier, before you found the solution, but couldnt hurt to be safe ;)
:chug:

Good point about the heat. When I initially drove it without the shifter floor panel, there was a lot of heat coming up, but it was on the highway and it was 100 degrees outside, so I didn't necessarily think it was related to the tranny. I will do that soon.

I will post how that fluid level turns out.

Happy trails
 

Jeep-CJ Donation Drive

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a donation.

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a donation.
Goal
$200.00
Earned
$25.00
This donation drive ends in
Back
Top Bottom