clutch travel

clutch travel

drivert51

Active Jeeper
Posts
301
Media
18
Thanks
0
Location
Southern Illinois
Vehicle(s)
1972 CJ5, 304, 3 speed
Ok, i'll ask a different way. The way my clutch pedal sits my knee is up buy the steering wheel when I put my foot on it. The clutch seems to disengage without much pedal travel. Can I change the angle of the clutch pedal to make more leg room or does it need to be able to go to the floor?
 
My CJ5 is the same way....good thought. I would say the angle could be changed without issue but don't go to extremes, as long as it moves the throw out bearing far enough to release clutch the go for it.
 
Is that mechanical linkage or hydraulic?
If its mechanical you should be able to adjust or shorten the linkage to the point where it releases closer to the floor. Two things you need to maintain, enough travel down to fully release the clutch and at the other end on the up side enough freeplay so that the clutch locks up and doesn't stay in contact with the throwout bearing. Keep in mind with mechanical linkage when you put the Jeep in a big twist , you may loose all your clearance. Hydraulic setups can also be adjusted but also have there challenges to get where your trying to go.
 
Is that mechanical linkage or hydraulic?
If its mechanical you should be able to adjust or shorten the linkage to the point where it releases closer to the floor. Two things you need to maintain, enough travel down to fully release the clutch and at the other end on the up side enough freeplay so that the clutch locks up and doesn't stay in contact with the throwout bearing. Keep in mind with mechanical linkage when you put the Jeep in a big twist , you may loose all your clearance. Hydraulic setups can also be adjusted but also have there challenges to get where your trying to go.
Thank you so much tarry99! I might just be interested myself- hard to get these long dancer's legs contorted in there sometimes. (Planning a wheel well cut out, too. Already have tilt steering)

I believe I have a T-14 tranny (As appose to a T-15 , bummer, I know). The brake and the clutch petals come down from up near the column. How will I know if they are Mechanical or Hydraulic from 6,000 miles away? I know the gas is Mechanical because I saw the cable. Am I safe to assume that the brake and clutch are as well? (didn't get a peek, or at least, nothing registered. . .)

I am trying to gather all the info I can on this 74 CJ5 , I didn't have much time with her before I had to leave the country for a while. . . But the mind does race with plans and ideas doesn't it!

All I know is that my little 5'10'' frame had a hard time in there- I can't imagine taller people own them! Hats off!
 
Stock your 74 came with mechanical. There is an adjustable rod from the bell crank to the throwout arm that can be tweaked. Crawl under and take a look. Any body lift? That can change things - usually too short then. But if the PO took out a body lift and left a lengthened pedal to bell crank rod in, it will be as you described as well.
 
Catharps,
Been a while since I messed with this stuff but I believe a 74 would have mechanical linkage and a bellcrank between the engine and frame unless someone made a switch to hydraulic for some reason. Those should also have swing pedals and you can move the top stop on the clutch pedal to where the pedal is actually resting lower thereby giving you more clearance to get your foot on it.
As long as you maintain whatever downward travel is needed to release the clutch and freeplay at the top of travel you should be fine. Not to confuse anyone but you could also change the ratios on the bellcrank if you wanted a quicker ( less travel ) vs a slower ( more travel) acting clutch. Its quite easy to move the pedal around and make it suit your needs as long as you stay with the basics of travel to release & freeplay at the other end.
 
That's the way I would do it, heat and bend. Leave everything else way way it was designed.
 
You'll want to adjust/shorten the rod between the pedal and the bellcrank.

Leave the rod that goes from the crank to the clutch fork alone; that is if you clutch engages/disengages properly now.
 
You'll want to adjust/shorten the rod between the pedal and the bellcrank.

Leave the rod that goes from the crank to the clutch fork alone; that is if you clutch engages/disengages properly now.

As far as I know it's working properly. Disengages after about 4-5 inches. Lots of space between there and the floor.
 
Ya, sounds like you can just shorten the rod from the pedal down.
 

Jeep-CJ Donation Drive

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a donation.

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a donation.
Goal
$200.00
Earned
$25.00
This donation drive ends in
Back
Top Bottom