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clutch truble

clutch truble

cj7dad

Jeeper
Posts
17
Thanks
0
Location
Ontario Canada
Vehicle(s)
1978 cj7 258 IL6 t18a trans dana 20 TC dana30 front diff warn locking hubs amc rear diff.74000km,
2 1989 yjs, 1992 yj.
My son has a 89 yj AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l .Over the last year we have replaced the clutch,plate & bearing ( get this ) 7 times. The jeep runs great when it is cold and will shift fine but when it gets hot it is hard to get into gear. It will grind like crazy but if you shut it off it will go into gear. ??
Any help would be great.
 
What Transmission do you have in the thing? Is it hydraulic clutch? Is there any damage to the though out bearing shaft? Did you replace the flywheel or have it turned? What about the pilot bearing? When you pulled out the clutch plates were they worn? Did you put the clutch Plate in back wards? Did you torque the clutch to flywheel to factory procedures?
I know these might sound like dumb questions but there might be something that you are overlooking on the thing.
 
The Transmission is an asian, it is hd clutch and I replaced the master.The shaft looks good. We replaced the pilot bearing each time.The clutch plate did not look worn. I am sure that te plate is in correctly. we torqued the flywheel as per specs.The motor mounts are worn! but I don't know if that's a factor.Any more suggestions?.
Thanks for the feedback.
 
A clutch is a simple mechanism and easily replaced by anyone with any common sense, the right tools, and a strong back. If you're sure you have done the job correctly, we'll take your word for it since we're not there to see it. Some of your discription makes me a little suspicious, as you said the tranny is an Aisin Warner unit. Unfortunately, that tranny is a blight on the Jeep name, and is widely known to be the weakest and most failure prone tranny ever used on any Jeep vehicle, failure prone even behind a fully stock, tiny and useless 4 cylinder engine. To make it worse, the 89 was one of the years they used a horrible slave/ throwout combination which is often times murder to bleed correctly (have you done it right?) It's simply a bad combination all around. If you're SURE the clutch work has been done correctly and the slave has been properly bled out, I would start looking at that tranny. I'm not picking on you or knocking your YJ, but It's not just opinion on my part. Those trannies caused many a Jeeper to curse their otherwise good Jeeps. :mad: Good luck finding the problem, and please let us know what It ends up being. We can all learn something from what you find. from
:edit: The engine mounts are not the problem.
 
Thanks Dave
The feedback is great!. About the bleeding part, I am having trouble with that. I have tried the gravity feed and pumping the peddle. After some time I can still get air out of the lines.
Any ideas ?

STEVE.
 
Thanks Dave
The feedback is great!. About the bleeding part, I am having trouble with that. I have tried the gravity feed and pumping the peddle. After some time I can still get air out of the lines.
Any ideas ?

STEVE.

I'm not a personal fan of gravity bleed, as an air bubble will work It's way up a line and not out unless there is a little pressure behind it. Note I said a LITTLE pressure. People tend to PUMP the pedal when doing a forced bleed, which only serves to do one thing. Take an air bubble, slam it into a liquid mass under great pressure, and pulverize it into foam rather than scoot it out. It will then appear to be bled for a short period of time, until it reappears as a compressible bubble, and drives you nuts. If you have to bleed by pedal, use a very slow even PRESS, not a pump until you feel a little resistance, then STOP, and bleed. Pounding the pedal and smashing it to the end will only foam the fluid again. The same slow RELEASE is needed as well, or the bubble can be torn apart by the vacuum created in the line. Slow and easy... If you don't have access to one, a Mity Vac tool is a wonderful thing, and you can usually find one for about $40. It will either vacuum fluid into a little cup reservoir, or push fluid in or out of a line. I prefer to bleed from the bottom up when possible to follow the normal path of the air bubble. If you think you still have air in the line, you may want to consider taking it to someone that can pressure bleed with a proper pot bleeder. This will at least tell you If the culprit is the tranny going south on you.
 
Thanks again dave,
I am going to try and rebleed again and see what happens.I'll let you know the results.:)

Steve,
 

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