Compression testing
hutchman
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- kennewick, wa
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- 1986 CJ7 - 90,000 original unmolested and rust free miles - Stock - well almost.........
I need to run a compression test on my AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l , so today I was searching for acceptable values from a test. What I found was that it should be 120# - AMC 150 # with all cylinders within a 5% - 10% max difference. These numbers seemed good to me and were within the range of what I remembered, but........
I started thinking about just what goes into these readings. Common sense would tell me that since standard atmospheric pressure is 14.7 PSIG, that a 10.0/1 compression motor should have 147 psig if it was a perfect cylinder.
However, in this case common sense would be wrong. I started searching the internet for information on what variables influence the readings of a compression test. And what I found illustrated how much I was forgetting.
To get a true compression reading, you need to have the engine up to operating temperature to ensure that the rings, pistons, and valves have expanded and are where they fall in operation.
All spark plugs need to be removed from the cylinder head with the ignition system grounded to prevent damage to the control module.
The throttle needs to be wide open to allow unfettered air flow to the cylinder.
All of these things need to be in place in order to have a number that compares to the standard.
So now all of these are in place, what variables will effect the compression readings? Remember that I said common sense told me that if we have a compression ratio of 10/1 that we ought to have a 147 psig reading on the gauge? Well, that is just plain wrong.
The gas laws tell us that when you compress a gas it heats up and the pressure it exerts on the containing vessel increases. This has a huge effect on the pressure reading in the cylinder.......I don't remember how much but it seems to me it increased the gauge reading about 2 times what we would expect. But this is not the only thing that effects the indicated pressure.
As the engine cranks, the intake and exhaust valve open and close depending on which stroke the piston is on.....intake, compression, power, and exhaust. But what I was not thinking about was the fact that the intake and exhaust valves are sometimes open at the simultaneously during the 4 stroke process. This fact by itself blows my common sense out of the water. The compression reading will vary greatly based on the camshaft profile in the engine. A stock cam with short overlap will have higher cranking pressure than a long overlap, high rpm, cam will have. So the camshaft grind will effect greatly what is good or bad for a different engine. As it turns out, this effect almost completely reduces the impact of the change in pressure from heating due to the gas laws......almost but not quite.
So where does this leave us? For a brand new and leak free engine with a short overlap cam, we should be around 160#, maybe 170#.......from the best of my memory. So for my motor with 95,000 miles on it, I believe the 120# - AMC 150 # to be an indication of a good motor.
Here is a link to a great technical article on compression testing and how to use the results.......
Puma Race Engines Technical Guide - Compression Tests
Good reading if you are interested in the technical aspect of a compression test. If not then, I believe the numbers above are good.
I started thinking about just what goes into these readings. Common sense would tell me that since standard atmospheric pressure is 14.7 PSIG, that a 10.0/1 compression motor should have 147 psig if it was a perfect cylinder.
However, in this case common sense would be wrong. I started searching the internet for information on what variables influence the readings of a compression test. And what I found illustrated how much I was forgetting.
To get a true compression reading, you need to have the engine up to operating temperature to ensure that the rings, pistons, and valves have expanded and are where they fall in operation.
All spark plugs need to be removed from the cylinder head with the ignition system grounded to prevent damage to the control module.
The throttle needs to be wide open to allow unfettered air flow to the cylinder.
All of these things need to be in place in order to have a number that compares to the standard.
So now all of these are in place, what variables will effect the compression readings? Remember that I said common sense told me that if we have a compression ratio of 10/1 that we ought to have a 147 psig reading on the gauge? Well, that is just plain wrong.
The gas laws tell us that when you compress a gas it heats up and the pressure it exerts on the containing vessel increases. This has a huge effect on the pressure reading in the cylinder.......I don't remember how much but it seems to me it increased the gauge reading about 2 times what we would expect. But this is not the only thing that effects the indicated pressure.
As the engine cranks, the intake and exhaust valve open and close depending on which stroke the piston is on.....intake, compression, power, and exhaust. But what I was not thinking about was the fact that the intake and exhaust valves are sometimes open at the simultaneously during the 4 stroke process. This fact by itself blows my common sense out of the water. The compression reading will vary greatly based on the camshaft profile in the engine. A stock cam with short overlap will have higher cranking pressure than a long overlap, high rpm, cam will have. So the camshaft grind will effect greatly what is good or bad for a different engine. As it turns out, this effect almost completely reduces the impact of the change in pressure from heating due to the gas laws......almost but not quite.
So where does this leave us? For a brand new and leak free engine with a short overlap cam, we should be around 160#, maybe 170#.......from the best of my memory. So for my motor with 95,000 miles on it, I believe the 120# - AMC 150 # to be an indication of a good motor.
Here is a link to a great technical article on compression testing and how to use the results.......
Puma Race Engines Technical Guide - Compression Tests
Good reading if you are interested in the technical aspect of a compression test. If not then, I believe the numbers above are good.