Clutch Converting 76 CJ5 clutch to hydraulic

[cglax6]

I'm having issues with the search function...not sure if it's my connection or what. I'm looking for some guidance on how to convert my clutch to hydraulic in my 76 CJ5 .

I'm sure I can fumble through piecing something together, but I'm looking to see if anyone else has done something similar and can point me in the right direction for installing a master cylinder.

I have power brakes, so I'm not sure if that whole system would be in the way of being able to install a master correctly.

Appreciate the help.

 

[cglax6]

BTW, if you haven't been paying attention to my build thread, I just swapped in a 351w.

I have my old mechanical linkage for the AMC 304 , and could probably fab brackets to make it work properly, but I'm curious to see how simple/hard it would be to go hydraulic.

 

[RiverandSand]

Mine is the original 4 banger setup, with a Novac made bracket which bolts to the bellhousing. The slave is a Luk reman for the GM iron duke 4. The master is original Girling made cylinder which Rockauto had a rebuld kit for. Luk also has a reman for the master # lmc 308. I'm not sure if it will clear the PB unit as mine is non power brakes. If need some measurements let me know.

 

[cglax6]

Mine is the original 4 banger setup, with a Novac made bracket which bolts to the bellhousing. The slave is a Luk reman for the GM iron duke 4. The master is original Girling made cylinder which Rockauto had a rebuld kit for. Luk also has a reman for the master # lmc 308. I'm not sure if it will clear the PB unit as mine is non power brakes. If need some measurements let me know.

Appreciate the help... measurements would be nice. Looking for length from firewall forward...and how long the pushrod is for the MC.

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[cglax6]

Just looking at it, there should be plenty of room. Now I'm not sure where I'd have to connect the pushrod to the pedal. I'm guessing I just need to get a master cylinder and drill a hole in the pedal where it makes sense.
I've read that some folks grind off one of the rivets and run a bolt through the hole and secure it that way. Just doesn't seem like there would be enough travel for it to work correctly...but I'm whatever is below a novice when it comes to a hydraulic clutch.

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[RiverandSand]

By your pics it looks like it would go under the the cable coming through the firewall. The master sticks out 4 1/2 " from the firewall and the rod which clipped into master is 4" center of mounting eye to firewall. It is over 1 1/2" from the top bolt of the PS unit bolt. My firewall had a stamped out circle plug where the master should mount. I don't see that in your pics probably not an option in 76.

 

[cglax6]

By your pics it looks like it would go under the the cable coming through the firewall. The master sticks out 4 1/2 " from the firewall and the rod which clipped into master is 4" center of mounting eye to firewall. It is over 1 1/2" from the top bolt of the PS unit bolt. My firewall had a stamped out circle plug where the master should mount. I don't see that in your pics probably not an option in 76.

Ok thanks. The hose up top is for the wiper fluid.

When you get a chance, can you take some inside and outside pics so I can see where it's mounted and where the pushrod connects.

Hydraulic wasn't an option on the 76s unfortunately, so no locator stamp.

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[RiverandSand]

 

[Belizean]

Good pictures. Same as mine !

 

[cglax6]

Thank you sir! That's exactly what I need.

Looks like I'll have to take off that whole clutch arm assembly and tie the pushrod into the closer rivet.

I just put the bellcrank back on and I'd have to do some serious rigging to make the mechanical setup work. At least a half inch spacer plate at the firewall and then some hack-n-fab at the bell housing. The way it sits naturally is a little cock-eyed and no room to fit to the bell housing.

I'm sure I could make it work, but the Ford bell housing I have is out of an '85 F250 with a hydraulic clutch. I have the impossible to find bracket for the slave cylinder. Seems to be a little less work to get a nice hydraulic setup.

Ford slave cylinders are plastic pieces of junk, so I'm probably going to spring for the Novak slave.

I have time to work on a solution for the bellcrank, so I may tackle that. One issue with the bellcrank is that it's too long. I don't think it would be a big deal to shorten it.

Someone steer me in the right direction if it sounds like I'm talking out my rear!

Thanks!

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[RiverandSand]

I'm sure a call to Novak could be worth while, hydraulic is the way to go IMHO. They are a good solution for an engine swap.

 

[Belizean]

I went with Novak parts, not cheap, but they have it all.

 

[cglax6]

I'll give those guys a call tomorrow. Seems like the way to go.

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[Belizean]

You can go online and find out a lot also before talking to them. What Transmission ?

 

[cglax6]

You can go online and find out a lot also before talking to them. What transmission ?

Ford T-18 on a 351w. The slave and bracket piece are easy to figure out...just trying to nail down what I need to do for the master cylinder.

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