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couple of problems

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couple of problems
dalefan88

dalefan88

Crazy Sr. Respected Jeeper
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ada,oh
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79 cj5 258, t150, dana 20 transfer case, dana 30 front, 20 rear,warn hubs,2.5" procomp lift,teamrush,msd box,mc2100 carb,hedman header,clifford intake,optima battery, ford shock towers.
first, i changed bearings rotors and pads on the front. now i am getting a clicking noise from the front. it goes away when i hit the brakes and comes back anything over 20 mph. everything is nice and tight.


second, i am having a hard starting problem when i first start it. i have a rebuilt carter bbd, manuel choke, new fuel filter, and pump. after it first starts with starting fluid it will start fine for the rest of the day. come out the next day and have to spray it again. o it has a team rush with a gm 4 pin module.

thanks for any help.
 
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1) Are you sure nothing is rubbing anywhere? Does the clicking increase and decrease in frequency as you accelerate and brake?

2) Are you saying the bowl is empty of fuel? If you pull the air cleaner off and pump the throttle, is any fuel coming out of the squirter?
 
CJ said:
1) Are you sure nothing is rubbing anywhere? Does the clicking increase and decrease in frequency as you accelerate and brake?

2) Are you saying the bowl is empty of fuel? If you pull the air cleaner off and pump the throttle, is any fuel coming out of the squirter?
Click to expand...



1. dont see anything rubbing. when i turn the rotor it spins free then it gets a tight spot then spins free again. not sure if that is the problem.

2. fuel is coming out. that is what i dont get. timing is at 6.
 
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1) So, does it turn free all the time if you take the caliper off? Does the clicking increase and decrease as you speed up and slow down?

2) Fuel is coming out... What about spark?
 
Mine had a hard start issue, turned out to be :dung: in the fuel tank.
I added a fuel filter before the mechanical pump and ran one before the carb.
The one before the carb is a metal filter. The one before the pump is a clear plastic one and I could see the dirt, I just kept changing the filter till everything finally cleared out. However if it sits a few days it gets b!tchy.
 
on the noise i think i got a warped rotor. with the caliper off it spins free. it think it is making the in board pad move and making the clicking sound.

on the hard start i got fuel. for ignition i have a new cap, rotor, wires, plugs, and a gm 4 pim module. it runs fine and starts fine after it warms up. i think i might play with the timing more.
 
dalefan88 said:
on the noise i think i got a warped rotor. with the caliper off it spins free. it think it is making the in board pad move and making the clicking sound.

on the hard start i got fuel. for ignition i have a new cap, rotor, wires, plugs, and a gm 4 pim module. it runs fine and starts fine after it warms up. i think i might play with the timing more.
Click to expand...

1) Yep - Rotor is warped or!!! Be very sure there is no :dung: behind the mating surfaces causing your runout...

2) Hate to say this but... You still did not say if you checked for spark! Is there a spark... Having all new equipment doesn't ensure you are good to go... :)
 
CJ said:
1) Yep - Rotor is warped or!!! Be very sure there is no :dung: behind the mating surfaces causing your runout...

2) Hate to say this but... You still did not say if you checked for spark! Is there a spark... Having all new equipment doesn't ensure you are good to go... :)
Click to expand...


ya good spark. i moved my fuel filter and think that was the problem. the return and main nipples where even. so i think that was the problem. i will let you all know saturday if i got the problems fixed. thanks
 
well i put a new rotor on and i dont get it. with the caliper and locking hub off it spins freely as soon as i put the hub and caliper back on it does the same thing. spins freely for 3/4 of a turn then tightns up for the other 1/4 of the turn. i am out of ideas. should i go get my rotor turned?
 
can you put a dial indicator on it to check for runout? If you don't have one can you compress the piston so there is a gap between the pads and the rotor, spin the rotor and watch for runout. I would do this with the lockout off just to be sure it's not something with the lockout.
With all the china rotors out there now there are a lot of new ones that are warped.:eek:
 
we have had a problem with some rotors at our work. this is the first time i had a problem with one. i am going to see if one of my garages from work will turn them. it did say machine after rehub. but i did this on my old dakota and never had a problem.
 
think i found the noise problem. got everything apart tonight grabbed the axle and it shakes. looked a the wheel joint and it is moving all around. so i know what i am getting when i go to work tomarrow:D. i think i might as well do the ball joint while i got it that far apart. are they pressed in joints?
 
they are the originals. i can get a press from habor freight for like $40.
 
dalefan88 said:
they are the originals. i can get a press from habor freight for like $40.
Click to expand...
A press isn't the fix. It's getting the joints installed... If you don't need to replace them, I would leave them alone.. :)
 
I'm not sure I understand. A bad axle u-joint would not make the rotor run out. Fill me in what am I missing?
I agree with CJ on the ball joints why change them if they are ok? I just take my knuckle off and let the local auto parts shop replace them, they have presses and work cheap.
 
X eleventybillon on the ball joints. If they aint broke, don't fix em till you have to.
 
Old Dog said:
I'm not sure I understand. A bad axle u-joint would not make the rotor run out. Fill me in what am I missing?
I agree with CJ on the ball joints why change them if they are ok? I just take my knuckle off and let the local auto parts shop replace them, they have presses and work cheap.
Click to expand...


the run out wasnt the main issue. i had a clicking noise that drove me nuts. im not going to mess with the ball joints. just change the wheel joint. but now i got the ball joints apart but i still can get the nuckle out. it is like the shaft is keeping me from getting the joints out so i can get to the axle. is there any tricks you guys have?
 
i figured it out.
 
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